A new form of BIG YANK, expressed by nine experts in the field. CASE5: Shinsuke Kojima (Designer, KAPTAIN SUNSHINE)
The second collection of "The Third Edition" by , which started in the spring/summer of 2016, has been released. This is a collection in which "BIG YANK," which reissued under its actual name in 2011, collaborated with creators from various genres, including not only clothing designers but also musicians, barbers, and vintage clothing store owners, among others. The number of participants in the previous exhibition was five, but this time the number has been scaled up to nine. The products that each of the designers has created, which they feel bring out the charm of "Big Yank," are all products that cannot be found in in-line workwear. Let us analyze the whole picture through interviews with the participating creators.
Shinsuke Kojima of "KAPTAIN SUNSHINE" develops masculine and playful collections based on traditional designs with functional and beautiful detail work. He has a deep knowledge of utility wear such as hunting and military wear, and designed a military shirt jacket. While keeping the brand's background in mind, he succeeded in bringing out the charm of "BIG YANK" from a different angle.
This military shirt focuses on Big Yank's unexpected roots.
-First of all, how did you come to know the "Big Yank" brand?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)I don't remember the details, but I think it was the flannel shirt that introduced me to the name. I was curious about it because the name was similar to "Big Mac" on the high street. Since then, I have personally acquired various items from "Big Yank," including a half-zip flannel shirt. The item I am particularly attached to is a CPO shirt with mountain pockets made for civilian use.
-That's quite a rare item, isn't it? When you think of "Big Yank," the iconic details symbolized by the mountain pockets and gusset pockets, when did you first become aware of them?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)I think it was in the beginning of 2000. However, I did not have detailed knowledge of the age. I just had a vague idea of the age based on the overall atmosphere and sewing specifications. Later, after Thirty-Five Summers (the Japanese distributor of Big Yank, the company involved in this project) reissued Big Yank under its own name, I was able to learn a lot through its products. So, Kinji-san (editor's note: Kinji Teramoto, the representative of Thirty-Five Summers) is a big part of my life.
Chambray shirt with mountain pockets, still a standard model by Thirty Five Summers
-I would like to ask you about this project. Kojima-san is known for his designs based on the brand's roots, but what you have created is not so-called "workwear," is it?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)When I first heard about this, I took another look at the standard lineup that Thirty-Five Summers makes, and when I saw this level of perfection, I thought there was no point in my making that kind of work shirt. Then, when I was talking with Mr. Jun Nobuoka (editor's note: Mr. Jun Nobuoka is in charge of press), we talked about the fact that Reliance, the parent company of Big Yank, used to be a contractor that produced items for the military. Military wear is also considered to be durable, so many workwear manufacturers served as contractors at that time. Later, I was shown an advertisement of Big Yank's military wear in a magazine from the 40s, and the existence of the CPO shirts with mountain pockets that I mentioned earlier helped me solidify the military direction of the company.
Name attached to a 1940s "M-43" shirt issued to the U.S. Army. The name of the Reliance Company is listed as the contractor.
Reliance AD from a magazine from the 40's. The illustration confirms that was making military wear at that time.
-I like the fact that it is a minor model, "M-43".
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)I like this two-pocket design, and I personally had one of those. You actually showed us the "M-43" made by Reliance, which is a workwear manufacturer, and I guess they handled a lot more cotton utility wear than flight jackets, including the factory background.
The reversible design is boldly arranged with high quality materials.
-I thought it was very Kojima's style to call it a shirt jacket. The material is also very expressive.
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)I was in the mood for a shirt jacket, and since the season is spring and summer, I thought it would be perfect. I decided to stick to the fabric since I was going to do it myself, so I used our original ripstop fabric, which is thinner than the herringbone fabric used in the original "M-43".
-What is the difference between this and the lip stops that are circulating in the world?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)First of all, we use Egyptian extra-long staple cotton. The yarn is called Finks, which is often used in "Captain Sunshine" as well, and is beaten as densely as possible with a fine count of 100/2. I like the original American rough feel of the fabric, but I dared to take the opposite approach in making this fabric.
-100/2 is a high-grade yarn that is not often used in work or military.
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido): Yes, that's right. This Finks material gives a luster and a unique wet and glossy sheen. It is thin, but has a lot of beating, so it has a sense of firmness, which is a fabric I personally like.
-What is the point of the design?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)The first point is that we made it reversible. Originally, we were thinking of making a product-dyed military jacket, but the sewing specifications of our work shirts, which are made of ripstop and heavy count yarn, and product-dyeing worked better together than we had expected. When I saw the first sample, the back side had a good atmosphere, and historically, there are utility shirts with high sleeves, so I thought it could be reversible. The front is a military-style two-pocket shirt, but the inside pocket has been changed to a "Big Yank" pocket to give it a "Big Yank" look, as requested, and this playful change has been further sublimated into a reversible shirt. It uses the brand's iconic mountain pockets. I'm not a workwear collector, and I felt that there was no point in doing something orthodox.
The collar on the back side is made expressive by the winged tailoring. The puckering around the stitches creates a tasteful atmosphere.
Iconic "Big Yank" design on the back chest. A mountain pocket on the left and a pen pocket on the right.
-This is an interesting idea. It is rare to have a reversible shirt jacket.
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)I don't think it's easy to make (laughs). The needle is also a little larger than usual, so it is sewn with a rolled back chain stitch, which makes it puckering by dyeing, and it is also picturesque when worn in the back. The mountain pockets on the back are not visible because the pockets on the front are large, and it is also important to note that they are not obvious at first glance. We were conscious of the landing point while incorporating our mood.
Japanese traditional dyeing and indigo are applied to express a blend of Japanese and Western workwear.
-The color range is also interesting. Is it navy in addition to olive drab and white?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)It is not navy, but is actually dyed with real indigo. We asked BUAISOU, an indigo dyeing company based in Tokushima, to dye it for us. BUAISOU" is a unit of young people, and they are engaged in the entire process of indigo dyeing, from growing, harvesting, and drying indigo to making indigo dye. I visited their showroom and saw the process myself, and I was impressed by the care and attention to detail in their work. Thanks to your efforts, I was able to express a nice indigo-dyed texture.
The eye-catching, vividly colored indigo dyeing is the work of a hot unit called "Buaisou.
-Indigo dyeing has an image of fading violently when washed, but...
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)Ai-dyeing does not normally cause color migration. Buayso is particularly particular about the finishing washing process. We wash them for about a week, so there is not much worry about the color fading. Another appeal of indigo is that the more it is worn and washed, the more vivid the color becomes. It is different from synthetic indigo, and its deep and rich expression is fresh and interesting.
-Why did you try indigo dyeing for this project in the first place?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)Big Yank" is an American workwear brand, so we wanted to include indigo, which has been used in traditional Japanese work clothes such as samue (work clothes), as an element of the same work connection. Also, I knew that the original ripstop and indigo would go well together, so I gave it a try. The result is a great success, and I am satisfied with how it turned out. It's a uniquely Japanese blue, different from indigo or denim, and something you can't find in America.
-How would you coordinate the items you have planned this time?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)Personally, I wear the reverse side as the main part of the garment. As I was making it, the more and more I was getting excited about it, and it felt like the reverse side was the star of the show (laughs). (Laughs). The sizing is just right so that it can be worn as a spring jacket, so you can also enjoy layering it up.
-Finally, how did you feel about participating in this project?
island of Kojima (a small island located in Hokkaido)The project changed from the original plan with each sample, and the history and background were combined with coincidence to create a new design. It was interesting to see how these items turned out as a result.
Shinsuke Kojima
After working as an editor for a men's fashion newspaper, he started his career as a fashion designer and launched his own label "KAPTAIN SUNSHINE" in 2013 SS. He is known for his designs based on historical backgrounds, functional detail work, and use of particular fabrics, and has been a guest designer for "WOOLRICH" since 2016 FW.
