It is precisely because we did not fall prey to stereotypes that we have the "Ambush ®︎" of today.
You majored in graphic design in college, and your involvement in fashion began when you taught yourself how to make accessories for Mr. VERBAL and started styling him. Are there any people or things that have influenced you in the field of fashion?
YOON:When I was a student, my neighborhood library had a collection of fashion magazines such as "Vogue," "i-D Magazine," and "The Face" in both the U.S. and the U.K. For some reason, I read everything I could find. Then I was like, "Oh, there's this kind of world, too. I didn't know anything about it, but that was my first encounter with fashion. . I met the people who were in the magazines I was reading at that time, and I never thought I would be able to work with them.
Do you know anyone you saw in magazines back then that you are working with now?
YOON:For example, Judy Blame, who I used to see in i-D MAGAZINE, is featuring his story in her next collection for Dior Men, as is Kim Jones, who I first met five or six years ago when she collaborated with Louis Vuitton, where he was the director. I met him and he loved the large jewelry from Ambush ®︎. I gave him a necklace as a gift, and he wore it with many other pieces. I was happy to see him wearing the necklace I gave him at that time on various occasions. I also had the opportunity to meet many other prominent people.
You and Kim Jones, whose name was just mentioned, are currently working together on a collection for Dior Men, aren't you? How did you become the jewelry director?
YOON:When he left Louis Vuitton, he asked me, "I haven't decided where to go yet, but would you like to work together on a new brand of jewelry? When he left Louis Vuitton, he asked me, "I haven't decided where I'm going yet, but I'd like to work with you on the next brand. I was very happy that he chose me, even though he was connected to many jewelry designers.
How do you go about creating within "Dior Men"?
YOON:. Basically, my role is to give shape to Kim's ideas. Once the theme is decided, the apparel takes shape, and the jewelry production begins. When the theme is decided, I do a lot of research, but Kim also has ideas and sends me many references, so I proceed accordingly.
You have collaborated with Ambush (®︎) and Dior Men, as well as many other collaborations. With all these projects going on at the same time, how do you keep a balance between them?
YOON:At Dior Men, all I have to do is what I have to do, and that's it. At Dior Men, I only do what I have to do, and that's it. On the other hand, at Ambush (®︎), every single collaboration is decided at my discretion, and everything is connected to the brand's reputation. So, I think there is a good separation in our approaches. The hard part is managing the schedule, which tends to get messy (laughs).
In a past interview, I saw you say that right after establishing Ambush ®︎, "I would DJ until morning and then come home and VERBAL and I would write each slip and ship it out one by one. Considering those days, it seems that you have built your career as a designer at a very fast pace. What do you feel was an important factor in your current success?
YOON:Be flexible in thinking about things. You must always keep your antennae up in various directions and study many things at the same time, with an eye on the future. When I meet a lot of people, I always feel that no matter how well they are doing along the way, they stop the moment their heads get stuck. That is why I call myself a designer or a director, but in reality, in the fashion industry, it is not only design, but knowledge of business aspects such as marketing is also indispensable, and I believe that design is to take all of these aspects into consideration and give them shape. If you want to be like this, it is important to think about what you need, keep an open mind, accumulate knowledge and skills, and remain committed to your goals. There is no such thing as a "one-size-fits-all" answer.
Accessories using natural stones, a feature of this season's collection. Clockwise from top: Necklace ¥90,000+TAX, Ring ¥52,000+TAX, Ring ¥46,000+TAX, Ring ¥52,000+TAX, Bracelet ¥45,000+TAX
Has this idea remained unchanged since the establishment of Ambush ®︎?
YOON:I started from zero, having never studied fashion properly, not understanding the industry system, and not even having the know-how to make things, and I grew while studying on my own and searching for the best method at each moment. . I had no medium- to long-term plans, and I myself was enjoying the way things were gradually taking shape in my own style. I am sure there are some things that would not be agreeable to those who have been doing things the conventional, set-in-stone way, but I think it is because I have taken an organic approach that I have been able to challenge myself with new things.
. In my mind, there is no concept of male-female in jewelry either. Nowadays, "unisex" has become a common marketing term, but when I started Ambush ®︎ in 2008, no one was convinced of unisex jewelry. In fact, even a prominent British journalist said to me, "unisex? Such an ugly word" (laughs). But that is the DNA of our brand, and we were able to establish a new genre, which is the reason why "Ambush ®︎" exists today. I have been told many times that "that's not good enough, that's weird," but in my mind, I think "it's fine.
. We started developing apparel because we needed clothes when we were making lookbooks. Once we made tops, we wanted pants next, and the number of pants gradually increased until we are where we are today. It was for the same reason that I started holding exhibitions in Paris. "Don't you have jewelry like this? In Japan, there were many people who looked at jewelry according to a certain frame. Now I understand that the stores have their own reasons, but I just couldn't accept it, and I felt the need to challenge myself in the real world, so I went to Paris.
. Because Paris is the home of fashion, I have the impression that the stereotypes about fashion are stronger there than in Japan. Did you ever run into any obstacles over there?
YOON:Yes, there were. However, just as people who make movies aim for Hollywood, there are many things you can only learn in the real world, and I learned a lot from the straight opinions I received. I also learned that you have to be strong to stand out in the fashion industry, as I witnessed hundreds of brands holding exhibitions at the same time as big brands were holding shows. The bottom line is survival.
This large necklace overflows with the "Ambush (®︎)" style. The chain, which is navy in places, is made of lapis lazuli, and since it is carved out of a large block, it is a gem with no joints. Necklace ¥700,000+TAX
In January of this year, it was announced that Ambush ®︎ would become a member of the Newgers Group, which includes brands such as Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh™ and Heron Preston.
YOON:While exhibiting in Paris, we realized that as sales grew, the amount of effort devoted to follow-up on the business side also grew, and for a small brand like ours, this alone was exhausting.
. I have no choice but to put my energy into something other than creation.
YOON:Yes . So I thought, for example, if I joined some showroom, I would have more time to devote to creations. I actually joined a showroom, which increased my wholesale business, but it also coincided with the opening of the Shibuya branch of Ambush (®︎), and I was able to see many things after starting the store. I could see the movement of customers and how to adapt to it. Nowadays, there are so many stores and goods all over the world, and customers are so smart that I don't think they go out of their way to visit different stores. If they have their own store or website, why not just go there? It is better for branding. . So, I think it is best to work with people who can grow the brand together with us.
When did you start thinking about joining the NEWGARS Group?
YOON:It was about a year and a half ago . It was quite a long time before we decided to do it. During that time, we received offers from various companies, but we decided to work with the "Newgers Group" because their vision was the closest to that of "Ambush ®︎".
. While denim and jewelry will continue to be produced in Japan, some items will now be produced in Italy. In past interviews, you have often spoken of your commitment to "Made in Japan," but what will Ambush ®︎ gain by becoming a member of the "Newgards Group?
YOON:The importance of Japan in my mind will remain unchanged, and at the same time, I can gain new know-how by working with "Newgards Group" again. All high brands produce their clothes in Italy, don't they? If I can learn what that process is like, what kind of fabrics and sewing techniques they choose, it will lead to the next possibilities for "Ambush ®︎".
Do you think the price will naturally go up if the products are made in Italy?
YOON:We do not plan to raise the price , as we are balancing it well while setting the level we both want to keep.
. This is a good thing for "Ambush ®︎", isn't it? When will the products be switched to Italian production?
YOON:We are trying some items from this fall/winter, but most of them will be from the upcoming spring/summer 2021 collection.
