. we didn't want to break what we were expressing to each other.
A: What was it that prompted you to collaborate with the brands you have collaborated with this time?
Yamane:As I mentioned earlier, I have worked with many people over the past 10 years, and I had many combinations in mind. However, I wanted to work with someone who shared the philosophy of this project. That was Mr. Kobayashi of Mountain Research and Mr. Nishimura of Digawell.
How did you go about creating the product?
Yamane:The design was left to us, but the fabric is an original FCE fabric. We proceeded with the production after we had a clear understanding of the theme. Our premise was that we did not want to lose each other's colors or what we were expressing.
For example, since [Digawell] is good at tailoring, I told him that I wanted to ask them to make formal wear for people in the Dial House community when they go out. He interpreted this in his own way and said that formal wear in England is workwear, and that it would be interesting to have a factory that makes workwear, called "Yamo," produce the clothes.
I see.
Yamane:Ya Mo is located in a port town called Norfolk, England. There, they make work clothes for blue-collar workers. So for this triple name item, Digawell edited the design from a pattern at "Yamo" and sewed it with our fabric. The factory workers said, "We can't sew on such a slippery fabric," but the finished product is still very solid and nice.
DIGAWELL × YARMO × F/CE.
A boiler suit by "Yamo" arranged in the "Digawell" style. The fabric is an original "SOLOTEX" developed by F.C.E. with Teijin. The material is wrinkle-resistant and stretchable due to the composition of the threads. . Since this is basically workwear, it dries quickly after getting wet, which is also a key point. However, the good thing about this fabric is that it doesn't look like a synthetic fiber," says Yamane. Although it eliminates the wildness of workwear, the quality of the sewing, etc. is just as good and robust as that. Boiler suit ¥58,000+TAX , Dress ¥45,000+TAX
You also made a record bag with "Digawell," didn't you?
Yamane:Yes, that's right. This was one of the things I definitely wanted to make. Nishimura is also a vinyl collector and digs vinyl records a lot. I also like vinyl records, and we started talking about how great it would be if we could carry beer and lunch boxes in a record bag, which led to the decision to create this product.
What is the meaning behind the printed graphics and text?
Yamane:It is called RIAA curve, and it seems to indicate the rules of the record, which I did not know, but it is a graphic with the content of Nishimura's work. The font is a font created by the members of "CRASS" and is used for the text. The font is copyright free.
The DIY or "DIY" spirit is unique in the way it is apparent.
Yamane:Anarcho-punks are amazing, aren't they? They build their own living spaces, become self-sufficient, and even make their own fonts.
DIGAWEL × F/CE.
Mr. Nishimura of Digawell is a vinyl collector and has a lot of very rare records. We decided to make this item based on the structure of a soft cooler box, using 7-inch and 12-inch record bags as a base. . The print uses the original font of the band "CRASS," the founders of the community. Vinyl bag ¥7,000+TAX (12inc) , ¥5,000+TAX (7inc)
I wanted to ask Mr. Kobayashi to dress the central figure of the community.
. On the other hand, Mountain Research is also a brand with an anarchic attitude, isn't it?
Yamane:Yes, that's right. Mr. Kobayashi of Mountain Research was a great help to us when we started the Nordisk store, and he often takes us out for dinner in his private time. He has his own unique philosophy, and I often felt empathy with the message that "Mountain Research" sends out, so I asked him to help us.
Anarchist shirts and vintage pants.
Yamane:In my mind, these are the items I associate with "Mountain Research. But it took a lot of courage to say to Mr. Kobayashi, "I'll take this one and this one, please..." (wry smile), but when I told him, he readily agreed.
Mountain Research x F/CE.
Anarchist shirts and vintage pants, a staple of "Mountain Research," are made with original fabrics from "F.C.E. Yamane says, "The shirt is a very large buffalo check fabric, woven in Oshu. The fabric is not convenient to obtain, and normally we would not be able to get it made, but we asked them to do whatever we wanted (laughs). The pants are made of the original bird's eye "SOLOTEX. The logos of both brands are printed on the left pocket. Anarchy shirt ¥38,000+TAX , Bondage pants ¥42,000+TAX
The items from your collaboration with "Digawell" are formal wear, but do these items have a story behind them?
Yamane:I wanted clothing worn by a central figure in the community , hence the anarchist shirts and vintage pants.
I see navy and blue as the base color for the entire collaboration. Is there a meaning behind this?
Yamane:This has nothing to do with the Dial House, but royal blue is the color of the British royal family and is used in the national flag, while it is also the color of workers. I wanted to express this duality. It is not a color we are familiar with in the FCE inline, but I think it is a special color in that sense as well.
The fact that we can do this by overcoming barriers is also unique to us.
. You mentioned earlier that "as a tool to be used by the community," and I thought the collaboration with Nordisk and Helinox was also very typical of you, Mr. Yamane.
Yamane:The brand "Nordisk" was also a major turning point for us in the past 10 years. Functionality is a part of our DNA. Nordisk was completely customized in terms of color, and this is the first time we have worked with Helinox, but we were able to use our own original fabrics to create items that are stronger and lighter than our inline products.
In both cases, I spoke directly with people in the brand's home country. Naturally, the communication is in English, but the number of overseas customers has increased over the past 10 years, and I think this collaboration was made possible by the increase in English-speaking staff at our company. I think the fact that we were able to overcome such barriers was also unique to us.
NORDISK × F/CE.
The REISA 6, Nordisk's classic tent for community living spaces, was completely color-coded for this project. We were told that we could tweak the design a little, but we are not tent-making professionals, so we decided to leave it as is. . We also wanted to pay homage to Nordisk, a pioneer in dome tents. Coyote is a color that F.C.E. often uses as an accent," says Yamane. Leisa 6 ¥165,000+TAX
Helinox × F/CE.
As with Nordisk, the community needs tools, such as tactical chairs and tables from Helinox, which were ordered separately. . I asked them to change the fabric to the original one. The weft is made of Cordura nylon, and the warp is made of Spectra yarn, which is used in bulletproof vests, making it a strong and lightweight fabric. We had a fabric strength test to confirm this, and it passed," he said. The green of the poles "is a shade of green like a regimental tie and represents the British Ivy". Tactical chair ¥19,000+TAX , Tactical table M ¥23,000+TAX
Is this your first time working with "Umbro" as well?
Yamane:Yes . Anyone can stay at the Dial House. So, as I thought, many punks and others gather there. I thought that hooligans probably come there, too, so I thought of the jerseys they wear when they watch sports as a picture. The base was the 1998 England national team uniform, when Beckham was captain, and it was really cool.
You expressed that in royal blue.
Yamane:. In addition, the silhouette and pattern have also been drawn from our own work. We have arranged it so that it can be worn properly as street wear.
UMBRO × F/CE.
Umbro collaborated for the first time on this project, adapting the uniform worn by the England national team at the 1998 World Cup. . I saw hooligans wearing this uniform and thought it looked cool, so I made a special order. . The patch under the brand logo is like a punks' badge. It is a slightly thicker print, and if you look closely at the sides, you can see it is orange". Track jacket ¥29,000+TAX , Track pants ¥28,000+TAX , Team jacket ¥24,000+TAX
Orphic is the brand of Takayoshi Shirakawa, vocalist of "BACK DROP BOMB," isn't it? I can see a connection with Mr. Yamane here as well.
Yamane:Yes, I do. I like British trainers, and you happened to be wearing a sample of these shoes. I told him that I had a project in mind, and we agreed to work together on it. I knew that if I was going to do shoes, I wanted to work with a shoe manufacturer, so I was able to talk with Takaku at just the right time.
ORPHIC × F/CE.
This item is based on a pair of "Orphic" shoes based on the British Trainer, with Yamane's idea layered on top of it. . We made them waterproof by layering a film-like fabric over the mesh part. It is not a breathable fabric, so it is not used for clothes, but I thought it would be interesting to use it as a part of shoes and bags, so I tried various ways of trial and error. I like to experiment with the possibilities of fabrics in this way," Yamane told us. British trainer ¥27,000+TAX
