A new form of BIG YANK, as expressed by nine experts in the field. CASE8_Tomoyuki Tanaka (FPM)
The second collection of "The Third Edition" by , which started in the spring/summer of 2016, has been released. This is a collection in which "BIG YANK," which reissued under its actual name in 2011, collaborated with creators from various genres, including not only clothing designers but also musicians, barbers, and vintage clothing store owners, among others. The number of participants in the previous exhibition was five, but this time the number has been scaled up to nine. The products that each of the designers has created, which they feel bring out the charm of "Big Yank," are all products that cannot be found in in-line workwear. Let us analyze the whole picture through interviews with the participating creators.
Tomoyuki Tanaka of FPM, one of Japan's leading DJs and producer of famous musicians, is participating in Big Yank's "The Third Edition. Before making his major debut as FPM, Tanaka worked in the planning department of a major apparel company and is known as a great lover of clothes. His knowledge of vintage clothing is especially strong, and he owns many special pieces. This time, Mr. Tanaka created a chambray shirt printed with Mickey Mouse, which is a must-have for vintage clothing lovers. We asked Mr. Tanaka about his thoughts and passion behind the catchy motif.
Big Yank, which I naturally remembered because of my love of vintage clothing.
First of all, how did you come to know about Big Yank, Mr. Tanaka?
Tanaka.: I don't remember exactly, but if you like vintage clothing, it's a natural brand to remember. Unique details like mountain pockets and mess pockets stand out, and the brand itself goes back to the early 80s, so you see flannel shirts and work shirts mixed in with regular vintage clothing. Even if you don't know the detailed background, you can still see them, or something like that. I feel like it especially picked up in the 2000s.
It is true that during the vintage clothing boom of the 1990s, only a limited number of people knew about prewar clothing.
Tanaka. It's like that insatiable quest started with denim, then sweatshirts, and finally workwear. . It is the result of the diligence of the Japanese people. I have the impression that the value of "Big Yank" has increased as the details of prewar work shirts, such as chinstraps and metal buttons, have been elucidated one after another.
Do you actually own a "Big Yank," Mr. Tanaka?
Tanaka: Yes, of course I have one. A mess poke chambray shirt in my size. It's in mint condition and I still love it.
I wanted to create something bold, which is possible only with a project like this.
BIG YANK × Tomoyuki Tanaka（FPM） MICKEY MOUSE ON 1966 ¥26,000＋TAX
What was the concept behind this project?
Tanaka. First of all, when I was approached about this project, I thought that since it was a festival-like project, it would be no use for me to do something geeky. . Then I had a dim idea that a printed chambray shirt like the one I am wearing today would be interesting. . Then I took another look at my chambray shirts and found one with a Mickey print on it.
You don't see many vintage chambray shirts with prints on them. I wonder when they were made?
TanakaThe chambray from the 50's and earlier is great, of course, but this one has a unique cheapness to it, and a nice texture. I think this "The Third Edition" is an opportunity for many people to know about "Big Yank," so I personally wanted to do a big story that would appeal to everyone. Maniac things have been done by Thirty-Five Summers (the Japanese distributor of Big Yank, the company involved in this project), so I wanted to do something that would appeal to everyone.
It is true that this is an idea that is unique to you, Mr. Tanaka, and is not found in the inline models.
Tanaka. I am glad to hear you say so. However, it is not interesting to just print Mickey as usual, so I was very particular about the choice of Mickey pattern.
What exactly do you mean by that?
Tanaka. Mickey has a slightly different look depending on the year. The chambray shirt used as the base for this project is a 1966 model, so we chose a Mickey printed on it that was drawn in that period, in order to make the shirt design consistent with that era. This is a difficult detail to convey, but I believe it makes the shirt more realistic. I visited Walt Disney Japan to select the Mickey pattern myself.
Pocket design of the 1966 model with buttoned pockets on both chests
Mickey Mouse work shirts were created with the hope that many people would wear them.
I like the fact that the 1966 model does not use iconic details such as mountain pockets and mess pockets.
Tanaka. I wanted to create a unique lightness. Also, I was born in 1966, so I selected this shirt. Big Yank" work shirts of this period no longer have mountain pockets or mess pockets, but two pockets of the same shape on both chests.
. Also, the texture of the ground is nice.
Tanaka.: The chambray fabric is a light one to match the atmosphere of later years. . I thought it would suit the design better. . The used finish gives the garment a worn look, such as the blurred prints and around the stitching, which is beautifully reproduced.
Are there any other points you would like to mention?
Tanaka. I thought it would be modern to wear this type of chambray shirt oversized, so I dared to make it larger. I think it would look cute on a girl. I would like people who don't know much about "Big Yank" to wear it. Also, I personally work as a DJ, so the storm cuffs are great because the sleeves are easy to roll up. I like it.
Big Yank's well-known storm cuffs with open space between the button and buttonhole on the cufflinks.
The print of Mickey Mouse was a fresh approach that no one else had taken.
Tanaka: If I get another chance, I would like to print a Mickey Mouse design from that era on a 40's chambray shirt next time. You definitely wouldn't have anything printed on a mountain pocket shirt back then, would you? Or maybe even Donald Duck (laughs).
Tomoyuki Tanaka (FPM)
Born in 1966 . DJ/Producer. After working as a planner and editor for a major apparel company, he made his debut in 1997 with "The Fantastic Plastic Machine". The following year, his second album "Luxury" was released in Europe and the U.S., attracting worldwide attention. In his private life, he is known as a collector of vintage clothing and owns a large archive of vintage clothing.
