BUYER 03 Can you catch a glimpse of their "identity" in the images?
PROFILE
Director and buyer of "UNITED ARROWS & SONS". After studying abroad in the U.K., joined "UNITED ARROWS" in 2007. After working in sales at the Harajuku flagship store and other stores, he worked in PR. After working as a buyer for the concept label "UNITED ARROWS & SONS," he has been in his current position since this season.
store.united-arrows.co.jp/shop/uasons
What were your impressions of the presentations at Paris Men's and online?
I thought it was important to show a glimpse of the "identity" of each of the artists in the video. This was the first time that non-industry people were able to watch the show in the same way, and in order to broaden the audience beyond the shows that were only for experts, I think we had to tell the audience "who we are" in some way. I think the good thing about this Digital Fashion Week is that we could not fake it.
Were there any brands that embodied this?
I was impressed by the fact that "Hermès" was done entirely in French, even though its stance is to communicate to people all over the world. The video was like a backstage view of the show, and I strongly felt the pride of the French maison, even though they were not doing anything special.
On July 5, prior to the Paris Men's show, Hermès presented a live video in collaboration with French artist Cyril Test. The film depicts the behind-the-scenes of all the staff engaged in their respective jobs, and was distributed on the company's website and Instagram.
There were no English subtitles.
That must have been a good thing. Even in France, Louis Vuitton's direction is different from that of Louis Vuitton. I think it is necessary to hook up with creators who are the focus of the current era and pursue newness. However, "Hermes" values the essence of quality and universality, not the trends of the times, and probably values its existing customers very much. While there are many brands that play with ideas, it is wonderful that they have not changed what they have always valued, and it simply says, "We are who we are.
Do you have any brands that also left a strong impression on you at the Paris Men's collection?
Casablanca, by Sharaf Tajer, chose a cheerful and bright sound that stood out from the downer music that many brands choose, perhaps because of the timing of the Corona Disaster. The quality of the Hawaiian-themed clothing was excellent, but the way the models danced was truly Sharaf-like. It never blurs. . It was also very nice that Mr. Fujita, the designer of "Salvum," spoke in English about what he was thinking in the present tense. The use of Japanese models was also very realistic, and I thought it was very "Tokyo-like," including the fact that it was shot in front of an atelier, a place that doesn't even "look" like Tokyo. Moreover, there was no music. Mr. Fujita's English speech was re-recorded about 100 times (laughs).
Born in Morocco and now based in Paris, Sharaf Tajer launched "Casablanca" for Spring/Summer 2019. The title of this collection is "After the Rain Comes the Rainbow".
Salbum, by Teppei Fujita, presented a video shot under the elevated highway in Hatsudai, Tokyo, where his studio is located.
Can the perspective of being able to confirm one's identity be applied to the future of store building as well?
. I agree. I feel that we retailers also need to communicate more and more that we are the kind of people we are. It would be ideal if the sense of distance between customers and brands and stores becomes closer, and a kind of community formed by these people is born. For example, Salvum's clothes are extremely tasteful, which is why people who are into them follow the brand as deep fans. Walter Van Beirendonck is the same way, saying, "All I can do is convey the joy of fashion. . I think that in the future, we will be talking about either that kind of maniacal clothing or lifestyle wear like that of " UNIQLO," and I don't think we should be halfway. Rather than throwing a ball to an unspecified number of people and hoping it will hit someone, we should reflect on what we exist for and who we are making things for... This is just a feeling I have.
Do you feel that your consumption style has changed after this period of self-restraint?
The line that I have been working on with designer Daisuke Ohana (Daisuke Ohana) with the theme of "clothes that you would want to wear 3 or 4 times a week," which has been ongoing for several years, is doing very well. Although from a completely different perspective, if we take "dressing up" as fashion, I feel that people are shifting to wanting to display pictures or wanting to buy a cover for their "Nintendo DS" because they have started playing video games. Why don't you notice the white walls when you are at home all the time? The other day at "BOOKMARC" there was an exhibit of vintage T-shirts and posters collected by Yasushi Ide, and more and more people I know are looking for such things. It is not about "dressing up" a space, but perhaps the way you frame art and posters is "fashion" as well.
