Comori and wism, sensual ism, unite denim. | feature

I wouldn't do a special order unless I wanted to do it myself.

A: While building such a close relationship, you have done several special order projects in the past, haven't you?

Komori:Yes, I do. But basically, I don't want to do special orders. I want to move on to the next in-line exhibition as soon as it is over, so if I do a special order, I get dragged into it. . But when buyers talk to me about it, I want to do it.

Is that because it sounds like an interesting project?

Komori:Yes, that's right. There are several buyers who are good at planning, and one of them is Mr. Horike. Basically, I only make what I want to wear and what I want to make, so when I am asked to do something for an anniversary, it doesn't really hit home for me. However, if someone says, "I want this item in this size," or "I want this shape," I think it might be possible. The denim for this project is a case in point.

Komori:. As a result, such items sometimes lead to ideas for the next season. . That is why I don't do special orders unless I want to try it myself.

Hori family:. I once had a project turned down. When I brought the original garment and said, "I want to make this item based on this," about two weeks later, he politely informed me that "it would be just a reproduction.

Komori:I was very nervous to tell them that . I was afraid I would get angry (laughs).

Hori family:I couldn't be mad at him (laughs). To be honest, it didn't seem to add up, and I kind of knew that there was a possibility that it might not proceed. I couldn't tell him that right away, and I thought he was being cautious.

Hori family:But because of my experience of being rejected there, I decided to express what I thought from the next time. I decided to simply express my desire to wear the dress.

Komori:I feel that buyers who express their feelings to me really want to wear the clothes. If I feel "I like it," then I want to do it, too. If it smells like business, I can't do it.

The most wearable denim in the history of apparel.

Komori:. I thought about turning down the denim this time, too, at first. I thought that standard denim brands would be enough. Levi's, Lee, and Arpesey are enough for me, and I felt there was no need to go to the trouble of making my own denim.

. And yet, it came to fruition this time, didn't it? How did you first come up with the project?

Hori family:I have a pair of baggy tapered 5-pocket pants that I am working on inline. They were made of moleskin, and I thought the silhouette was really nice. . But with moleskin, you can only wear them at certain times of the year. So I told him that I wanted denim made by Mr. Komori. But I wasn't quite convinced (laughs). (Laughs.) So, to be honest, I was thinking that it might be 50-50, or maybe you wouldn't be able to make it.

Komori:. I couldn't picture the finished product in my mind. However, I decided to try making a sample. There is a lightweight 11-ounce denim fabric that we usually make inline, and I thought it would be surprisingly good to combine this wide shape with that fabric.

And when you tried it, it turned out to be better than you expected.

Komori:It exceeded my imagination. However, Mr. Horie had offered to make a black version, but I declined. This lightweight fabric is based on denim from the World War II era, and black denim was not produced at that time. When I make clothes, I decide on the period setting for the fabric, sewing, design, and processing, and combine them to create something that does not exist in any other period, but if I were to make black, it would not add up.

On the other hand, how did you come up with this bleached color?

Komori:This special order denim was so good that I was inspired to make a non-tapered, baggy silhouette denim for the inline line as well. At that time, I had an idea in my mind to do a one-wash and bleach. I imagined that the color of the denim had been faded by wearing it as much as possible. To make a color sample, I tried bleaching the "wism" sample, and it turned out to be a very "wism"-like color.

Hori family:It's like the breeches of the 90's. . And right then, Komori-san sent me a picture and I was like, "Wow! I was like, "Wow! Even though it was just a picture, I could feel the greatness of it. When I showed the sample to our staff, some of them said, "This is the denim I want to wear the most in the history of apparel. The sample was a size 3, but even though he normally wears a 1, he said something like, "I'm wearing a 3.

I show all the special orders to our staff once, and when I saw them all trying them on and saying, "Wow, this is amazing," my eyes lit up for the first time in a long time. That day, everyone was like, "What are you going to do with those denim? How do you wear them? How are you going to wear them? It was that uplifting, that exciting.

Incidentally, what made you decide on the baggy tapered silhouette?

Left: [COMOLI × WISM] Denim (ICE) ¥39,000＋TAX , Right: Denim (BLUE) ¥37,000＋TAX

Komori:I have a longing for just the right size 5-pocket pants, but I can't wear them because they don't fit me. Recently, I tried on a certain denim brand's irregular item number and found that they fit me strangely well; they are an item from the 1980s, and I am using their silhouette as a reference. They are baggy, so they hide the lines of my legs. Also, when I wear sneakers, the hems sag nicely, which is another thing I like about them.

I see. . So you tried to combine light-ounce denim with it.

Komori:. I think this is about the right amount of denim for Japanese people to wear. The average denim is 13.5 ounces, which is hot in the summer but cold in the winter. This is a good size to wear in spring and summer. They also go well with baggy silhouettes and drape beautifully.

Hori family:I had an image of a fusion of various elements, such as the mix of '80s silhouettes and '90s processing, and the unexpectedness of the combination of "wism" and "komori. That is why I named this denim "Unite Denim.

Unite means unity, cohesion, and oneness, doesn't it?

Hori family:Yes . It is also an expression of my desire to create an item that would unite Komori and myself as well as the staff. I have a feeling that this will be a denim item that people will definitely wear when something happens. I think it is something that you can simply say, "This is cool. Therefore, I would like to continue to make this item as a standard item, rather than treating it as a mere project.

COMOLI WISM UNITE DENIM

Komori:. It has become a very "wism"-like item, hasn't it? . Also, it goes really well with sneakers.

Hori family:. isn't it? It is also exciting to choose what kind of sneakers to wear with them. I want our customers to feel the excitement that we are feeling right now, and I am sure that there will be customers who will be moved when they wear these denims. I believe that this is a denim that will make you feel that way.

Komori:In a good sense, everyone at "Wism" is on the same page. I get the impression that Mr. Horie and his staff are the same, and that the customers are in agreement with them. I don't think it would be right to propose leather shoes together with this, but "wism" would not make a wrong proposal. . That's why I don't think of doing this inline.