The Irish Setter, whose DNA has been passed down from generation to generation since ancient times.
IRISH SETTER 6" MOC-TOE #8173 / IS FLAGS ¥45,000+TAX
The "Irish Setter" is synonymous with Red Wing, and was named after the color of the leather used on its 1952 work hunting boots, which resembled the fur of an Irish Setter hound. The "traction tread sole," a flat white sole, is cushioned and easy to walk on, and the strong and sturdy leather was favored by many workers, and the DNA has been passed down through the generations, changing colors and shapes to the present day. How do creators interpret this item and sublimate it into fashion?
Style 01
Takayuki Fujii x IRISH SETTER 6" ROUND-TOE #8165
PROFILE
. Born in 1976. After working at select stores and selling street brands, he became the designer of "non-native" in 2001. He has a deep knowledge of shoes as well as clothes, and has collaborated with various shoe brands.
I think Irish Setters look cool when worn in.
I would like to know about your recent footwear. What kind of shoes do you wear or have you bought new ones?
Fujii: When it gets cold, I basically wear boots a lot. I often wear boots made by "non-native" brands.
Do you wear boots every year when it gets cold?
Fujii: Yes, I do. I don't wear shorts. Basically, I like shoes that fit inside the hem of my pants. So I definitely wear boots.
Why don't you wear shorts?
Fujii: . because thick pants don't suit me. . Also, I don't feel comfortable unless the hems are neat. I don't like to have a gap between the shoe and the hem. . That is why I am particular about high-cut shoes, and I like shoes that look like part of the pants.
. In a previous interview with "HOUYHNHNM's", you talked about leather shoes, saying that they "wear like sneakers and look cool even when they get dirty. I would like to know more about that.
Fujii: I don't like to take care of my shoes too much. I often wear suede shoes, and I like the way they absorb dirt and change color as they become more and more like me. I brush them once in a while, but I don't spray them with waterproofing spray, and I like shoes that can be worn in the rain.
Fujii: If they are good shoes, even if they get dirty, they can be worn again by simply replacing the sole. Anyway, I don't like to worry about dirt or think about what I should do because it is raining. In that sense, I think "Irish Setter" shoes look cool when worn, so if you want to convey the good qualities of "Irish Setter" shoes to today's younger generation, I think it would be good to push that point of view.
Do you mean that the stains and changes over time that result from this process are what give it individuality?
Fujii: Yes, I do. But when I choose shoes, I have my own criteria. Whether or not I can wear them forever, whether or not they will go out of style, whether or not they are durable, and so on. . But these criteria vary from person to person, and I think it all depends on how you wear them.
Do you think Red Wing fits your criteria?
Fujii: Yes, I think they are good. But I wore them too much when I was young, and I have a very strong impression of those days, so I am inevitably pulled in by that image.
Was that in the 90's?
Fujii: Yes, I bought my first one with my New Year's gift when I was about 16 years old. It was in Ame-mura in Osaka. At that time, when I went to a shoe store, the clerk told me that I should wear "Red Wing" shoes with a lot of liner. It was kind of scary (laughs). (Laughs). He was a very American-style guy, but for some reason, he recommended boots that were one size smaller than I was wearing now. I wore reddish-brown boots and matched them with vintage denim. I had that kind of obsession back then.
Have you stayed away from it since then?
Fujii: When I came to Tokyo for my entrance exam, do you know that there was an HMV at the end of Shibuya Center Street? . The first floor there was like a studio for live TV broadcasting. Hiroshi Fujiwara was recording a TV show there. Hiroshi was wearing beige Irish setters, and I remember thinking, "What the heck is that? I remember thinking, "What the heck is that?
There was a Red Wing store right in front of the studio, and when I looked in, I found the exact same boots on sale. So I spent all my money to buy them. I wore them every day with my Levi's® 505s. Those boots may have been the first pair of beige shoes I ever bought.
Ms. Fujii, I have the impression that you wear beige suede boots, but it is very fresh to see you wearing black boots today.
Fujii: . I thought this one would be nice, too. Beams" had a special order of the same model a long time ago, maybe '95 or so. Of course I had those, as well as the dark brown and suede ones. I've stayed away from them since then, but last year I bought a pair of "Red Wing" triple black ones, which were a special order from a select store.
How do you like "Irish Setter" after a long time?
Fujii: I don't think it will change. After all, it is a brand with a long history, and what it has cultivated is so strong that it would be difficult for it to change easily. . When I tried them on for the first time in a while, I thought they were surprisingly good. Even if what we make doesn't change, I think we can change the way they look depending on how we match them.
Ms. Fujii's styling this time is very American casual, and the colors are kept to a minimum.
Fujii: I thought polyester or other outdoor fabrics like nylon would look newer than jeans or items made of cotton. . Also, I think there is a pant hem width that would fit the "Irish Setter".
Non-native pants seem to be a good match.
Fujii: . Yes, I agree. The ankle area of the boots is shapely, so I think they go well with pants with narrow hems.
Do you think boots and leather shoes will make a comeback in the future?
Fujii: Red Wing" is a classic, so in that sense, I think it is an item that will never go out of style. If you divide the shoes into European and American shoes, or even among the different types of shoes, it becomes difficult to understand the difference. I personally like European boots, but if you ask me if it would be better to make "Red Wing" work boots in Europe, I think there are advantages to them because they are made in the United States.
. Even now, you are adamant that your products are made in the U.S.A.
Fujii: . That's part of the appeal, isn't it? Red Wing is made in Minnesota, right?
Yes, that's right.
Fujii: Minnesota is a conservative place , so maybe that's why it's still going on. . if this were a company on the West Coast, they would have changed to another country long ago. I think it's really great that the company is made in the U.S.A., but is affordable, and has been able to keep going for a long time. Also, we are planning to make a special-order item for "non-native," and it may take some time, but please keep your eyes peeled for it.
IRISH SETTER 6" ROUND-TOE #8165 ¥34,900+TAX
The "#8165" was created in 1995 for the Japanese market in response to the discontinuation of the "#766" originally sold in the United States. The leather is black chrome leather. . It is not only durable enough to protect a workman's feet, but it also becomes more supple every time it is worn, without mentioning it. The rounded, characteristic round toe is easy to match with thin pants and has a clean silhouette.
