We want to respond as best we can to those who want to solve their problems without bending their style.
Red Wing shoes are famous for their soles that can be reupholstered. Could you tell us how this is done?
Ota:The insole is the part that touches the foot when it is inserted, and cork material is placed underneath. This cork is the key to the cushioning of Red Wing shoes. Elastic cork material is used, and it conforms to the shape of your foot as you wear them.
It is what is called "kneaded cork.
Ota:This kind of elastic cork material is very rare in the world. That is why it is difficult for even the repair shops in town to pack the same thing.
So you sew the midsole under the cork material.
Ota:Right. It is sewn to match the welt section. This is what we call the Goodyear welt method.
And then you attach the outsole under the midsole. Is this part glued?
Ota:It will be glued. As the larger outsole is glued, the excess is shaved off to complete the process.
You mentioned that when gluing, there is a possibility that some of the parts may be damaged when peeling off the glue. Do you take this process very carefully when repairing soles?
Ota:Red Wing soles are very hard to peel off. This is because we apply adhesive to both sides of the midsole and outsole during the manufacturing process. The adhesive is not applied right away, but is allowed to dry completely before being applied to each part of the sole. After that, we use a special machine to reheat and reactivate the adhesive before finally laminating them together. By doing so, the adhesive is firmly bonded, and it is also easier to peel off by reheating the adhesive once.
If they are old, the adhesive may deteriorate and not peel off cleanly, in which case the entire outsole should be scraped off.
I see. Is the midsole durable?
Ota:They are quite expensive. For example, if you have a pair of 30-year-old "Red Wing" boots, you can simply replace the outsole. Since they are made of synthetic rubber, they rarely become unusable due to hydrolysis or other deterioration. In my repair experience, there have not been many cases where the midsole has deteriorated.
But the midsole deteriorates as the outsole is repeatedly replaced, doesn't it? How many times can one midsole withstand outsole replacement?
Ota:I've done it a maximum of 4 or 5 times, but in most cases, you can wear them almost forever if you do it a couple of times. However, what I am afraid of is still the case where the midsole is damaged when the outsole is removed, or when the midsole is scraped off together with the outsole, or even the threads that are sewn to the welt are damaged. Therefore, it is important how to remove the outsole cleanly or how to scrape off the outsole, and the craftsman's skill is required.
What are the cases when all soles need to be replaced?
Ota:It is when the calf or toe area is so worn down that it has reached the midsole. In this case, we suggest replacing the entire sole. We often receive requests to replace the entire midsole because we are in the mood, even though the midsole is still totally usable. Outsole replacement is 15,400 yen and all-sole replacement is 17,600 yen, so there is not much difference in price. This will create a contrast between the aged and tasteful upper and the brand new stitching.
You said it would be uncomfortable.
Ota:Personally, I think that work boots with a certain flavor are cool, so if all I have to do is replace the outsole, I don't think it's necessary to do the midsole as well. But it is up to the customer to decide if that is a good idea or not, so I explain to them that such a feeling of discomfort may arise.
For example, is it possible to put a "Vibram lug sole" on a boot with the well-known "traction tread sole"?
Ota:That is also possible. Red Wing uses a variety of genuine parts, but it is possible to change the outsole to suit your needs. However, there are compatibility issues between the boot and the sole, so we can't just do anything. For example, a sole with a heel always requires a metal fitting called a shank to be attached to the boot itself. This can greatly affect the comfort of the boots, so customization may not be recommended. Red Wing conducts various durability tests in the United States, and we want to ensure the quality of our products. We don't want to destroy the trust we've built up by customizing boots that don't match the characteristics of the boot, which would negatively affect their comfort and durability.
You said that too much extreme customization may not maintain the quality.
Ota:Yes, I do. However, we would like to do our best to respond to customers who want to solve their problems without changing their style, for example, "The sole wears out quickly due to my walking habits, so I would like to replace it with a strong Vibram sole or a heeled sole. That is proof that you are attached to the Red Wing boots you have worn all your life, and I think that is what makes you the owner of an "out of fashion" style.
