nonnative meets inov-8. Takayuki Fujii talks about the city and the outdoors.
nonnative, which releases highly controversial custom-made items each season, is releasing another unexpected product this season. This season, nonnative is releasing an unexpected product: a model created in collaboration with the British shoe brand INOV-8, which enjoys strong support from athletes. The ROCLITE 286 GTX, developed for trail running, has a suede upper with a leather-like arrangement. Why this brand? Why suede? We asked the designer, Takayuki Fujii, these questions.
Recently, I bought a pair of sneakers from Hermes. I also bought a pair of "Converse" and "Vans" sneakers. I don't feel like I'm going after a single brand or genre, but rather, as usual, I'm experimenting with a wide range of styles.
Is there a reason why you are trying out a wide range of ideas?
What is popular and why? I'm interested in things like that. . That's why I often buy high-tech stuff. . I also like to see things as products. I want to experience the cutting edge of technology, . . Because that can be used in design.
I was surprised to hear that you made a special order for "INOV8" this time, but did you actually wear items from this brand as well?
Yes . I wear the same model as these , in black. I use them for camping and festivals, and they are "GORE-TEX®," so water doesn't get in, and they are pretty good. . And while I was wearing them, the idea came to me that it would be nice if they were beige and suede. No fashion brand had ever made a special order with INOV8, and I had a vague feeling that it would be a good idea, so I decided to go ahead with it.
[nonnative x inov-8] "ROCLITE 286 GTX" ¥23,000+TAX
When did you start wearing inline items?
I think it was a couple of years ago , maybe. . I found them when I was looking for outdoor shoes. I don't wear them much in camping situations because voluminous ones like mountain boots can be troublesome to put on. Low-cut shoes are not my first choice because of the water that can get into them.
So you found the "Rocklite 286" when you were thinking about these conditions.
Yes, that's right. I liked the brand color of "INOV8" and its unique atmosphere. They are not fashion-oriented, but I was drawn to them. The more I put my feet in them, the more they fit my feet, and the more grippy they are, the easier they are to walk and run in. Also, the fact that I don't have to tighten the laces so tightly is also appealing. I can put them on and take them off with the laces still tied, so it's very easy.
Mr. Fujii, do you run in the mountains?
No, you know, when you are at a campsite and a child suddenly starts to run and you have to chase after him or her. It's great for that kind of thing. . I don't do trail running or anything like that (laughs).
I see. What did you have in mind for this special order?
. I wanted to make something that could be worn not only in outdoor situations, but also in the city. In the inline version, the upper is made of mesh material, but this time we chose suede because we wanted it to look like a leather shoe. . We also selected a light beige color, like a desert boot. I think they will definitely get dirty, but I thought that would be cool. I want them to get dirty and get a taste of their own style.
Are there any other points you were particular about?
. The color of the sole, including the midsole, was tweaked and redone about four times. . This is because I wanted to bring a balanced color scheme, somewhat by feel. Also, the shoelaces were changed. Originally, we used thinner laces, but this time we included thicker laces.
In a good sense, you have gone against the functional approach that INOV8 is originally known for, and have transformed it into a classy product.
If we work with a sports manufacturer, we need to color it differently from what the brand is aware of, otherwise there is no point in us doing it ourselves.
So, you are going to focus on fashion?
. yes, I do. I want to create something that will surprise manufacturers. If I don't design something that makes people think, "I never thought of that idea," it will be boring, and I don't think it will appeal to customers.
Won't that raise the bar for proposals?
Hmmm ... well, maybe. It may be a proposal that a function-oriented manufacturer would say "no" to, but I think the important point when making a special order is how to make it sound interesting.
The topic of "special orders" is not particularly rare in this day and age, is it? In that sense, it is necessary to plan carefully.
Yes, that's right. Especially for sports manufacturers, who usually produce in large batches, a custom order of only a few hundred pairs is not such a good business proposition. Therefore, it is important to add value to the product. I try to make proposals based on the story I have created in my mind, including this aspect.
What was the reaction this time around?
As for "InVate," it seems that they wanted to get more into the fashion zone, and they gave me the okay to do so. . This time, I had some ideas for movies and posters, so I think it was a good thing that I was able to do that.
What gave you the idea for the movie and poster?
This is an ad for a British car manufacturer from the 90's. . I really like their advertisements, which connect the city and the outdoors, and I thought it would be interesting to express this image in our posters and movies. I had the idea that it would be interesting to express this image in our posters and movies.
In the sense of connecting the city and the outdoors, it is similar to the creations of "non-native" designers, isn't it?
. I myself have always liked outdoor gear. I am simply attracted to them as products.
Do you often go camping or to festivals with it?
It's just something I enjoy with my family. . I don't have a rigidly outdoorsy lifestyle. However, I would like to live in a place with more nature and have a more bird's eye view of the city. I would like to have a new perspective.
By "city," do you mean Tokyo?
Yes, that's right. I have lost touch with what "Tokyo-ness" is. I started to wonder, "What is Tokyo? Twenty years ago, going to a club or hanging out in Shibuya might have been described as "Tokyo-like," but that is no longer the case.
You feel that Tokyo's identity is fading.
Many foreign media refer to "non-native" as a "Tokyo brand," but if someone were to ask me, "What is it about Tokyo that makes it so special? I am sure that I would not be able to explain. So I would like to change my life and look at Tokyo more objectively.
