Paul Smith talks about PS by Paul Smith for AW 2017.
PS by Paul Smith was born last year as a diffusion line of Paul Smith. It is a collection of casual wear that retains the brand's identity as well as details such as the use of color, print work, and tailoring, while adding lightness and functionality. This collection, now in its third season, recently participated in Pitti Uomo 91 held in Florence, Italy. In addition to the booth with the full lineup, the presentation dynamically used the large venue, attracting the eyes of many visitors. The designer, Mr. Paul Smith himself, talks about such a remarkable 2017AW collection.
I was the first guest at the show that Pitti Uomo invited designers to attend, and I think I was the first person to use the Leopolda station as a venue. When I think that more than 20 years have passed since then, I realize that I must be getting old (laughs). (Laughs) I was very happy to be invited back this time after a long absence, and more than anything, I was excited. I think it was a great opportunity for many people to see [PS by Paul Smith].
-This is your third season. How do you feel after presenting your collection twice since the start of the 16AW collection?
Until now, "Paul Smith" had a total of seven labels, but last year we re-launched the brand by integrating the men's and women's lines into two separate lines, "Paul Smith" and "PS by Paul Smith". This is not a negative organization, but rather a simplification and clarification, which I feel has made it easier to convey the brand's worldview to customers. As for "PS by Paul Smith," after three seasons, you were finally able to present the brand at Pitti Uomo. The road to launch was not easy, but at any rate, we have only just begun. The label has a lot of potential.
You can tell the difference when you see it.
-How do you see the difference between the two labels?
If you look at each garment, you will notice a difference. While the main collection (Paul Smith) uses high quality fabrics and maintains a classical style, "PS by Paul Smith" is a collection that reflects convenience and sports taste, in other words, my lifestyle more strongly. I think one of the attractions of this collection is that it is more reasonably priced than the main collection.
-I see...for AW2017, with cycling as the source of inspiration, functional materials, vivid coloring, and sneakers made of knit materials, the collection seems very modern and comfortable. Does this mean that Paul's own lifestyle is becoming more strongly expressed with each passing season?
Although cycling is only a small part of the inspiration, Paul Smith's collections are optimistic and happy by nature, and colorful elements are incorporated throughout every item. It's a part of my personality. I would like to emphasize the sportswear line in this collection. I am still based in London, but I travel every week, riding my bike and taking pictures, which are my hobbies, and I am always looking for something new. For this project, I wanted to create products that could be used in active situations such as traveling and biking, so I decided on the concept of "functional, easy to carry, and easy to pack. For example, waterproof jackets and raincoats can be compactly packed and carried in a small bag. We also use stretchable materials and reflectors for high visibility, just as you would expect when riding a bicycle. All of these items have actually been field-tested, so I can guarantee their ease of use (laughs).
2017AW COLLECTION LOOK VISUAL (part)
Paul Smith himself captures the zeitgeist and lifestyle.
-I think that products born from one's own lifestyle are very persuasive! Finally, what do you want to convey through "PS by Paul Smith" in the future?
Since I started my brand, I have traveled to many countries and met people of different races, religions, and ages. Lifestyles naturally change with the changing times, and fashion trends and tastes change rapidly. Looking at recent trends, I think people's priorities are changing. Young people, in particular, are spending more money on "experiences" such as sports, health, and travel, rather than on clothing and accessories. I think this is the modern lifestyle of today, and I would like to develop a collection for "PS by Paul Smith" that fits this trend. Conversely, if you take a look at "PS by Paul Smith," you will be able to get a sense of the current zeitgeist. Please look forward to it.