01 : INTERVIEW WITH TETSUYA MATSUDA A new everyday shoe derived from a wooden form.
PROFILE
He is a wood pattern maker. After graduating from high school, he entered Esperanza Shoe Institute, which is said to be the first shoe school in Japan. In 2002, he joined Kobe Leather Cloth, a major company in the shoe industry, and in 2005, he started his own company, Harrogate, and in 2008, he launched Harrogate.
An up-and-coming brand that has been selling well at the Isetan Shinjuku Men's Building is HARROGATE. The main reasons for the success of this brand are its appearance that perfectly matches today's borderless lifestyle, and its price range of 30,000 yen or so, despite adopting the good old Goodyear welt manufacturing method. The key figure in "Harrogate," which was founded by a number of shoe specialists, is Tetsuya Matsuda, a wood form craftsman.
I heard that 150 pairs were sold at the ISETAN MEN'S trunk show. I heard it was a record-breaking sale.
Matsuda:I am grateful.
What kind of brand is "Harrogate"?
Matsuda:This brand is based on the concept of "Adult's daily shoes". I had a feeling that the sneaker-oriented world was unbearable. I wanted to prove that even leather shoes can do interesting things. It was a factory in India that pushed me to launch the brand. When I saw the samples at first glance, I was struck by the high potential of the shoes. It had the style of a British subcontractor.
The first model was made in 2020 at the factory with a team of designers and importers who have built their careers in the industry. The key points are a dynamite sole that can be worn by the sneaker generation without resistance, a price point in the 30,000 yen range, and a classic design that transcends style.
Each and every spec is second to none compared to any dress shoe. Goodyear welt soling, French calf upper, cork filling and wood shank inside, full leather lining.
When talking about "Harrogate," one thing that cannot be left out is the wooden pattern. It is a mold for turning flat leather into three-dimensional (=shoes), which is Mr. Matsuda's area of expertise.
Matsuda:The basic structure of the shoe is a sole that supports an "heel gait" and a construction that holds the foot in place at key points. The heel is placed on the outside of the heel, and the weight is kicked out through the base of the little toe and the base of the thumb. Wooden patterns have become flatter and flatter throughout the history of mass production. At Harrogate, we are turning back the hands of the clock.
The foot will have a silhouette that swings inward. If we try to reproduce this form, shoes will be asymmetrical. You can see this in American shoes such as Alden's. However, Harrogate's form is slender and sleek. However, the form of "Harrogate" is slender. Why is this? It is because the twists and turns are processed in three dimensions. By developing the blueprint not only horizontally but also vertically, twists in the appearance are suppressed. Another particularity is that we create a form that best reflects the design. Each wooden form is individually cut based on the characteristics of each model.
I've never heard of preparing a wooden pattern for each design.
Matsuda:I was encouraged by the reaction of customers (at ISETAN MEN'S), who seemed to realize that even if they couldn't tell at first glance, when they put them on, they could see that the fitting and appearance were different from their previous shoes.
What does "Harrogate" mean?
Matsuda:It is the name of a town in Nork Yorkshire, England. It is the birthplace of one of our members. The model name of the shoes is taken from the name of a train station in that country. England is the holy land of men's shoes, and the country that gave birth to the mods that I love so much. Therefore, I named all of my shoes after that country.
I see that you like mods.
Matsuda:It is no exaggeration to say that it was the mods that inspired me to enter the industry, a culture for young people that carried on the tailoring culture of the 50's. It was the first style for the masses while ensuring solid craftsmanship. It was the first style to appeal to the masses while ensuring solid craftsmanship. If you think about it, "Harrogate" might be mod-like.
Let me ask you again about your career. Wood form maker is an unfamiliar profession.
Matsuda:It is an indispensable part of shoemaking, but it is a part that is never shown to the public. To begin with, there are almost no wood pattern makers for pins. This is because wooden patterns were made by manufacturers. I left the company without thinking about it, and when I realized it, I started working on pins (laughs).
Why did you get involved in this field?
Matsuda:My love of fashion led me to want to become a womenswear designer. I planned to enter a clothing school, but I came across Ian Reid and Daita Kimura's shoes at a shoe store I chose as my part-time job after graduating from high school. They are both in the lineage of legendary British designer John Moore. This was the first time I saw a designed shoe, something I thought would be interesting.
Despite this, he chose neither a designer nor a shoemaker.
Matsuda:I think it was because I knew the importance of molds. I enjoyed making rings under the influence of my sister who studied at Hiko Mizuno (College of Jewelry). The quality of the mold you cut can make all the difference in the finished product. I started out by making wooden molds, but I soon found myself hooked on the world of ring making. As I mentioned earlier, Japanese wooden patterns have become increasingly poor due to the emphasis on efficiency. We have to learn from the wooden patterns of yesteryear while updating them. There is no end to this process. It's a lot of fun.
The "OVAL" is an authentic penny loafer with a diamond-shaped cutout in the saddle. The shoe tongue has undergone a minor change and is now slightly shorter.30,800 yen
The U-tip "EDGEWARE" shines brilliantly with its U-shaped skin stitching. The design and silhouette, which celebrate the masculine atmosphere derived from military shoes, are guaranteed to make you fall in love with them.¥31,900
The minimalist side gore boot "CAMDEN" is overwhelmed by the beauty of the wooden form. The toeline silhouette is worth a look.33,000 yen
KENSINGTON" is a side gore boot with a longer shaft than "CAMDEN" and an overall elegant impression. The wooden pattern is also different from "CAMDEN".33,000 yen(Photo: one leg due to the time of the interview)
