Lecture 2: Fujihara Yutaka
Vintage clothes that can be worn by both parents and children. Eventually, I want to pass on what I wear to my children.
Fujiwara:So: now for my next one. First of all, it's vintage, which can be worn by both parents and children. I brought a denim jacket and a sweatshirt.
section (of an orange, etc.)I see that there are two types of denim jackets. What brand?
Fujiwara:The "Headlight" has pleats with canned stitching, and the "Foremost" has a boxy shape like Levi's. I personally like one-pocket jackets, but these two jackets are long and easy to match with other jackets. Personally, I like one-pocket denim jackets, and these two jackets are long and easy to match.
Fujiwara:I have two children. My older brother can no longer wear "Headlight," and I am waiting for my younger daughter to grow up. My younger daughter is waiting for her younger brother to grow up, while my older brother is almost ready to wear "Foremost. In most cases, I find the children's sizes first, and then the adult sizes.
section (of an orange, etc.)What if: the younger child can't wear it anymore?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)My daughter will inherit that (laughs). She is one year younger than Yutaka's daughter.
Fujiwara:: (laughs). I want my children to inherit the vintage I wear when they grow up.
section (of an orange, etc.): That's a good idea. Don't worry, the Abe family will take over the children's version after Konno-kun (laughs). By the way, how old are each of you?
Fujiwara:Headlights" and "Foremost" are both from the late 40's or 50's. "Headlights" was sold to me at a low price by Mr. Umemiya of "JOB314" in Fukushima. Mr. Umemiya of "JOB314" in Fukushima gave me the "Headlight" sweatshirt at a discount, and the price is around 78,000 to 98,000 yen for this large size and indigo color. The next sweatshirt is a "Snoopy" sweatshirt by "Spruse.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): This sweatshirt is cute, too. The coloring is unique.
Fujiwara:I think it's just too cute for a boy, and my older son doesn't like it (laughs). I bought a Mickey kid's item that Konno-san made under his own brand, and he likes the olive color and masculine look of it, so he wears it often. Now that he is used to character prints, he finally started wearing this Snoopy recently.
section (of an orange, etc.)What are the numbers of kids in "Spruse"?
Fujiwara:Snoopy: There are many different kinds of prints because of the fact that it's Snoopy. There are far fewer of these Snoopy prints on T-shirts than on sweatshirts. Come to think of it, Kuri-kun gave me a yellow T-shirt as a birthday present more than 10 years ago.
chestnut field: It's Charlie Brown, isn't it?
Fujiwara:I had to shrink it in the dryer every time I went to the U.S. because it was XL. When I decided to wear it after a while, it was the perfect size (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I guess my body caught up with me (laughs). Kuri-chan is amazing for anticipating that.
Fujiwara:Next is "71205E. This is a long version of the 70505 E, the most numerous denim jacket in the Levi's lineup. There are not so many by far.
section (of an orange, etc.)What is the current market like?
Fujiwara:The price used to be 19,800 yen for pure navy blue until recently, but the price has recently gone up to about 29,800 yen because there are really no more of them. Some stores charge up to 30,000 yen. I happened to be able to buy it at a low price of 12,800 yen.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I'm sure it's the same relationship as the "558XX" to the "557XX" of third. What is the market price of third right now?
Fujiwara:557XX" has also been gaining popularity recently, driven by the first and second models. Naturally, the price of "558XX" is also rising. The difference in price between the two is not surprising. For example, if "557XX" costs 59,800 yen for the same color, "558XX" costs about 10,000 yen more.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yutaka: If you look closely, this is not Yutaka's size, is it? For resale (lol)?
Fujiwara:: No, it's not (laughs). I would like to make a book on jean jackets, so I have to collect one...
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Is there any way to distinguish it from "70505 E"?
Fujiwara:: Well, the most is the lot number on the tag, but some of the stamps are missing, so it's a balance between the length of the garment and the sleeve length. And the number of buttons is the same. But if there is "70505 E" on the side, you can obviously tell it's long. Some stores sometimes sell them at the same price as "70505 E" without knowing it, so it is interesting to look around with attention.
chestnut fieldI remember that "70505 E" was extremely cheap in Japan for a while. When a Mexican vintage dealer showed me a big and thin "70505E" in the U.S. and I said I would buy it for $30, he was surprised and said, "Why for a big E? He was so surprised.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Indeed, the myth of the Big E abroad is amazing (laughs).
Fujiwara:: Next is a dead stock "501"66,,model. At first, I was looking for a pair made in '77, the year of my birth, but the color of that year was not very dark. So I ended up finding this '74 made in "Fike Alpha", which had a very dark color, and settled on this one.
section (of an orange, etc.)Where can I find the year of manufacture?
Fujiwara:The white tag on the inside. You can read the year of manufacture from the number in the middle there. For example, "74" is "4", "77" is "7", etc. From the 80's, it is "81" or "82". From the 80's, the number will change to "81" or "82".
chestnut field: What year will the chain stitching on the back of the back pockets be adopted?
Fujiwara:I think it's been around since about '78. But there seems to be a single-stitch one made in 79, so both seem to exist during the transitional period!
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Heh - that's a good lesson to learn.
Fujiwara:: By the way, the Big E is there until '73.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Officially, it's 71 years, right?
Fujiwara:I have seen Mr. Sawada of "Fake Alpha", a senior member of the group, with a '73 notation, and apparently he used an extra tag.
section (of an orange, etc.): By the way, how much did this '74 dead stock cost?
Fujiwara:The price varies greatly depending on the size, but the W34 x L33 I bought cost 158,000 yen. For example, if it were a golden size, which is in high demand, it would cost 200,000 yen. I plan to unload this denim on my 40th birthday.
section (of an orange, etc.)I can't wear pants that cost 158,000 yen!
chestnut field: I'm a little afraid of deadstock vintage denim.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Next, please introduce us to denim that is easy to wear (laughs).
Fujiwara:I'm sorry for leading you here. I don't usually wear black pants, but I recently bought a pair of Levi's 501 black denim pants.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)This is a later version of black denim. The weft is white in the early days, right?
Fujiwara:I like this denim a lot because of its crispness, even in the latter half of the year. I looked at hundreds of denim pieces before I chose this one. There are very few good faded black denims.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)In terms of denim production, when the white weft threads are frayed and the warp threads are white, the white part of the weft also comes out, which makes the denim more crisp. That's why this color is rare in the later black denim.
section (of an orange, etc.)How much is it: how much for a Berberzine?
Fujiwara:I think this would be about 7,800 yen.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I've been to the Kansai area, and I get the impression that the price of made in USA black denim deadstock is getting higher and higher in some stores.
section (of an orange, etc.)By the way, how much is a blue denim "501" made in USA now?
Fujiwara:The price is 9,800 yen if it is pure blue in our house.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think there is a possibility that this black denim will be more expensive in the future than the blue denim made in the USA. This denim is sulfa-dyed, isn't it? Compared to blue denim of the same age, the contrast with the white weft yarn is stronger, so the whiskers show up more clearly, and the number of pieces produced is definitely smaller.
Fujiwara:: And I think black denim fades more quickly. I washed and glued dead stock black denim for my young son, and the color faded tremendously in about six months because of all the hard work that went into it when it arrived.
section (of an orange, etc.): How long were made-in-USA 501s made in the first place?
chestnut field: It looks like 2003. After that, it will be made in Mexico, but the fabric and details of the early ones are almost the same as those made in the U.S.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): In the past year, dead stock has gone down quite a bit again. It may be hard to buy them in the future.