Ask WISM about American Street Brands .

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Ask WISM about American street brands.

While the fashion scene as a whole has been leaning toward the keyword "street," WISM was one of the first stores to catch on to this trend. We spoke with Ichinose and Horike, the brains behind the store, about the American street brand that started the recent movement and the image of the store they are aiming for.

  • photo_Kazunobu Yamada
  • Edit_Kenichiro Tatewaki
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In the course of producing the special issue of "Unplugged" (March 24, 2016) on the United States, I was impressed by the influence of American brands in the global fashion scene, especially the street brands that maintain an independent stance. I felt that the influence of American brands in the global fashion scene, especially street brands that maintain an independent stance, is quite high. WISM" was the first store that came to mind when I thought of stores with many such brands, and I had the opportunity to talk with them.

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market. thank you .

How many American brands does "WISM" currently carry in total?

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market. There is a difference in the scale of the brands we carry, but if I were to talk about the number of brands alone, I would say that there are about 30. I am not particularly particular about American brands, but many of the brands that I saw and liked were American-oriented.

What brands are you interested in?

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market. Until now, American fashion has been centered on New York, but now it's clear that brands from L.A. are selling better. Brain Dead" is a typical example, and "Pleasures" is another. I have the impression that brands with slightly stronger graphics are selling better overall. . On the other hand, brands that are more elaborate are not doing so well. Really, the situation has reversed from a little while ago.

Brain Dead" sweatshirt ¥17,000+TAX

〈PLEASURE] Coach jacket ¥12,000+TAX , Cap ¥5,800+TAX

Pleasures] T-shirts ¥5,000 + TAX each

In addition to the brands you mentioned, many other brands, both domestic and international, are releasing graphic products these days.

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market: I think it is probably because Dover Street Market is hooking up with young artists. Although not an American brand, Gosha Rubchinsky is a good example. Young people find out about it on social networking sites, and it spreads quickly.

What is it that attracts you to a particular brand in this situation?

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market. Yes, every brand does it (laughs). It's a difficult thing to do. I don't think it's possible nowadays to say, "The print is tacky, but the body is good, so I'll buy it. If that is the case, then the body may be bad, but if the print is good, it's fine. In that sense, I don't care about the brand's background or reputation (in the industry), but simply buy what I think is cool. Also, as a store, I am talking about overall balance. If you only collect brands that sell well, the taste of the brands will be the same, and things that should sell well will not sell at all.

Are Brain Dead and Pleasures actually popular there?

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market. is becoming a little bit better known, but it's not a major player. I think there are more people who don't know about it.

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moatThe person who runs "Pleasures" was originally the director of a brand called "Publish," but he and a few others decided to start a team and started "Pleasures" to "do what we want to do.

Are you still working on "Publish"?

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moat. Yes, it is. In Japan, it is not so easy, is it? You can be involved in a big capital brand and at the same time do whatever you want with your own brand. This is becoming the standard over there. Moreover, it is interesting that both brands use the same factory without hesitation (laughs).

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market. So, brands that operate as a second business are often doing better. They probably make a decent income from their main brand, and then make what they like without worrying about sales. I think that's why they are supported as a result.

Are there any brands that you are paying attention to now?

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market. I can't give you a specific name yet. . I can't give you any specific names yet, because it would be a little awkward to tell you now (laughs).

What did you feel when you traveled to various places to buy?

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marketI can't go into details because it would be the same story as the brand I am currently targeting, but LA and New York are completely different things. The tension of the people based there is reflected in the clothes. In the west, the clothes are more random (laughs), like, "Let's put a print on an existing body! (Laughs). Brands like that usually make T-shirts, caps, coach jackets, and so on. Azuma also has that kind of style nowadays, but they make sure to make it right. There are more and more people who say, "I used to work for a certain brand.

Considering the colors of "WISM," I have the impression that the West Coast is more suitable.

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marketI have never really thought about it, but I think the Japanese audience today is more westernized.

Brands based on the West Coast are a worldwide hit, aren't they? Off-White, for example, is not exactly from the West Coast, but in terms of celebrity fashion, Kanye's Yeezy is a good example.

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market. It's certainly selling well. But I looked at them too, but when I talked to them, I felt that they were not what we were looking for.

What do you mean?

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market. I understand that production is done in Europe, that celebrities wear them and they become popular, and that these various conditions combine to make the price and popularity high. However, it is difficult to wear a jacket that costs hundreds of thousands of dollars on the street without worrying about stains, for example. The street is more realistic, and I think that a 10,000-odd thousand dollar coach jacket with a thoughtful print on it would be more justifiable. Well, this is simply a difference in values.

What kind of people are the makers of the brands you have mentioned so far?

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market: The guys they are trying to get involved with don't have a fashion celebrity feel at all. It's messy (laughs). . in a good way, of course. They are not cool.

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moatThe designers at "Pleasures" are always like, "You want a beer?" They're like, "Do you want a beer? (Laughs). Their attitude is the same as ours. It's person-to-person, so we often buy items because we fall in love with the person's personality. It is not because they are expensive or have cool prints on them that they are good; it is because street fashion is free and cannot be categorized. At the same time, there are no concrete indicators, so this is an opportunity.

I see.

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moat. So it wasn't just the west, but there were signs that the east was going to be more exciting as well. There are more and more people who are trying to get rich in fashion, and there were designers who changed jobs from completely different industries to start their own brands in the following fall/winter. There was also a former banker , who left his job and started a shirt brand.

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market.: It seems that my grandfather originally worked in a shirt factory.

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moatThe guy I'm working with is also a former film director (laughs). (Laughs.) So the three of us are making made-in-New-York shirts. It's very New York-like and interesting. I think it is our mission to hook up with brands like this.

By the way, how many brands do you visit on one trip?

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market. If you include those who just go to exhibitions, the number exceeds 100.

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moatBut there are many times when I go to the press room and find no one there, or when I call and find that the date is wrong, or when I go all the way to L.A. because someone says, "Come on over," but when I get there, there are no samples ready and all I can do is just talk. It is unthinkable in Japan (laughs).

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market. It's a common story over there, that people come all the way to L.A. to meet and just have a cup of tea at Starbucks (laughs). (Laughs) I think it's amazing. Then later, they send me an order sheet by e-mail, and I order without even looking at the sample. He was like, "This is how I'm going to order.

That's a great story (laughs).

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market. so I have no idea about sizing or anything like that. I don't think I would order from other places. Normally, that would be scary.

Can you tell us about some of the brands you ordered through this process?

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marketI've never seen a sample of any of our products (laughs). We carry quite a few models, but I've never seen a sample (laughs). (Laughs) The same goes for Brain Dead.

Then, is it possible that the product is not at all what you imagined when you received it?

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moat. Yes, there is. But the opposite is also true. There are times when I think, "I should have ordered more," because it looks better than I imagined. Anyway, there have been cases in which the surface was rough, and when the product was delivered, there was a hole in it. Japan is very strict about such things, and depending on the degree of roughness, the item may be returned as a "B" item. But the brands seem to think that it is perfectly acceptable, and they think, "You guys are so meticulous! It's quite difficult to deal with that kind of thing (laughs). (Laughs) Incidentally, this is a story about a brand called "Lone Wolf.

What kind of brand is it?

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moat: It's a surf brand. I'm just doing it on a small scale for the local market.

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market. not a cottage surf type of thing, right?

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moat. Everyone was wearing monotone fashion and skinny black denim bottoms. I thought, "How cool!" and while I was talking to them, they took me to the back of the room. I thought it was cool, and he took me to the back of the room, where there was a very sophisticated sound system.

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market. maybe that's my main job. I don't know if I'm making music or working as a producer, but I surf as a hobby and turn my spare space into a store, selling only sweatshirts and T-shirts. It's pretty loose (laughs). We had a small room, like a vocal, guitar, and drum room, and at that time, we had one person in each of them to record the sound together as one, but all I did was explain that rather than explain the clothes. As for the clothes, I just said, "Well, if you want, you can order them" (laughs).

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moat: "Take care of our brand!" Not, "Ummm, you're buying? . That's fine. I'll send it to you when it's ready.

. It's a yuletide. What other brands have left an impression on you?

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moatMaybe a brand of caps called "Base MFG"?

(Base MFG) Cap ¥5,800 + TAX each

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moatThe caps of the brands that are gaining momentum in L.A. are usually made here. Brain Dead" is one of them. I was shown the factory, and it looked like Ueno in L.A., or even Hachioji a little further away. And Fan Mail and Willie Cavalier?

Shirt ¥33,500+TAX

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moat. ": "Fan Mail" has a more neutral or clean image. The use of materials is interesting. Hemp, which has a strong image in Japan as a summer garment, is used in fall and winter as well. Hemp is a sturdy material that is originally used in the military, and I like how stoic they are about their craftsmanship.

〈Willy Cavalier〉Jacket ¥61,000+TAX , Pants ¥38,000+TAX

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moat.": "Willy Cavalier" is much stronger. He has originality, and I think he does what he likes. The designer himself is a very interesting guy, rugged and has many tattoos. He originally designed for "RRL" and opened his own store in SOHO, and then started his own brand.

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market. I've put quite a variety of things like that. . But there are some brands that we have included for the time being, so we are going to start scrutinizing them from here. Right now, we have 40 people in the invitation list, and we are narrowing it down to the first group (laughs). (Laughs.) The rest we will bring in big names through FA.

. I'm very curious to know where it is.

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market. But in the end, I see my friends around me wearing such brands and ask "Where is that? But in the end, brands like that become popular within their own circle, or people see their friends around them wearing them and ask, "Where is that from? (Laughs). But in the end, these brands become popular within the inner circle, or people see their friends wearing them and ask, "Where did you get that? I think it is the same for young Japanese people today, who tend to keep their fashion within their own circle. For example, if there is a designer, his friend is a musician, and his friend is an artist, and they trust each other, and that alone creates a worldview. I am genuinely envious of that, because our generation had too much of a yearning to be better than the rest of the world. I am genuinely envious of them. I am also attracted to them. So, the most ideal situation would be to have new brands that have been carefully examined, and to have our store in the middle of that culture at the right time.

WISM Shibuya

Address: 5-17-20 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 11:30 - 20:00 (Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun), 11:30 - 20:30 (Wed, Fri, Sat, eve of national holidays)
Phone: 03-6418-5034
http://wism-tyo.jp/
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