FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

Non-native and Normatydee. Newness and flair to the traditional patterns of American casual wear.

Non-native and normative.
Newness and flair to the traditional patterns of American casual wear.

nonnative" is currently developing its 41st collection "WEST. In the past, the brand has used the American West Coast and American casual as motifs, but this time, designer Takayuki Fujii is tackling a new challenge. That is textile design. For spring and summer items, Non-Native has traditionally chosen gorgeous traditional textiles made by the British company Liberty, which has been in business since 1875. This season, however, we have changed the routine. Non-native and NOMA t.d. may seem an unexpected combination, but Fujii and Noguchi are in fact old friends. may seem an unexpected combination, but Mr. Fujii and Ms. Noguchi have been old friends for a long time. They discuss a wide range of topics, from art school episodes to textile design, in a wide-ranging, deep, and lively fashion conversation.

  • Photo_Masayuki Nakaya
  • Text_Shota Kato
  • Edit_Ryo Komuta

How to make use of warmth and hand-drawing.

GORE-TEX outerwear also incorporates textile designs, but the combination of "Norma" and high-tech materials is fresh.

Noguchi:It's actually my first "GORE-TEX".

Sasaki:I wanted to try it but never had the chance.

TROOPER JACKET C/N WEATHER NOMA t.d. PRINT WITH GORE-TEX INFINIUMTM: ¥98,780

HIKER DOWN VEST COTTON TWILL NOMA t.d. PRINT: ¥76,780

Fujii:This fabric is dead stock, made in Japan. I used to be able to laminate "GORE-TEX" with any fabric I wanted. Non-native" used to match fabrics dyed with plants and trees in Kyoto. But this time, we decided to try something new, so we changed the print version for "GORE-TEX. If you look closely, you can see the subtle differences.

That's true.

Fujii:I don't like the idea that there is a point in doing something, but I wanted to do it anyway out of respect for Norma, including making the buttonholes on the side. The fabric absorbs color very well, especially charcoal, so it was very difficult to express the colors.

Noguchi:It's hard to have to change the edition between cotton and nylon.

The reproducibility changes completely depending on the material and color.

What is your impression of Mr. Fujii's craftsmanship and "non-native" from the perspective of the two members of "Norma"?

Sasaki:I have the impression that "non-native" is very polite. It is very typical of Fujii. Not only does it have a solid appearance, but it is updated year by year, but it does not change drastically, and it has a sense of stability in a good way.

Fujii:They say I don't change for the better or for the worse (smiles).

Noguchi:Non-native" = "Mr. Fujii. The attention to detail and the overall atmosphere, including the feel of the fabrics, are typical of Fujii, and I feel that this is a very personal brand. Also, the other day we talked about washing clothes or not washing clothes. That alone can completely change the impression of a brand, can't it?

Fujii:I always wash any clothes I buy before I wear them, and I wash all of my "non-native" clothes, too. If I don't wash them, I don't feel comfortable.

Why do you wash it?

Fujii:Because the pattern becomes interesting again when it becomes uneven. When you wash it, doesn't it become one piece? It's like something that was flat becomes round.

Noguchi:That is also an experience. How do you make the most of the feeling of what you have worn?

DWELLER EASY PANTS 03 COTTON TWILL NOMA t.d® PRINT: ¥39,380

DWELLER JET CAP NOMA t.d. PRINTWITH GORE-TEX INFINIUMTM: ¥17,380

Fujii:But I can't say it's cost-effective. The patterns are different for different fabrics, even for the same style.

Noguchi:Uh, yeah. To get the sizes together?

Fujii:Oh yeah. As any clothes lover will tell you, I don't like to fix things. I hate it when I pay for something and can't take it home today. That's why I try to find pants that don't need to be hemmed.

Sasaki:I'm very inquisitive. That's the good thing about non-native speakers.

Fujii:On the other hand, from my point of view, it is amazing that Norma does all the patterns by hand.

Noguchi:I can only do it by hand.

Fujii:That's what makes it look warm and new.

You draw by hand, and then you have to put it into data, right?

Noguchi:Yes, we do. There is a person who makes the silk screen plates for such digital processing. I have to have a good relationship with the person who does the work. If it doesn't go well, it can kill all the characteristics of the lines I have drawn.

Fujii:I see.

Noguchi:The lines end up looking like they were drawn on a computer. But I don't like to be too crafty. I think fashion is about having tension somewhere, so it is important to find the right balance between the two.

Non-native" has featured patterns and textiles more than ever before in this collection. This time, you were able to work together in the form of a spotlight, but do you think you might do it again?

Fujii:Yes, I do. I may not do it (laughs). I don't know about that yet.

Noguchi:As I mentioned earlier, collaboration is not possible unless you really understand the other person. In that sense, working with Fujii this time was very smooth.

I could see that we have a deep understanding of each other's relationship. I am looking forward to the next one. Thank you very much for your time today.

INFORMATION

vendor

Address: 1-23-14 Aobadai, Meguro-ku, Tokyo
Phone: 03-6452-3072
Open: 11:00-19:00 (irregular holidays)
vendor.co.jp

COVERCHORD

coverchord.com

Related Articles#nonnative

See more