FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

Creating something without the overclothed handbook culture. AOR remixes by Keiji Kaneko.
Keiji Kaneko x Adult Oriented Robes

notebook that records every day of clothing worn by customers
Creating without culture. AOR remixes by Keiji Kaneko.

I am a fashion person, not a culture person. That's why I've always admired AOR. Keiji Kaneko, who runs "Kofukuburetecho," mutters to himself. This time, we will be handling clothing from "Adult Oriented Robes. The designer of this brand, Takumi Yuge, has music in his background. That's why I couldn't get my hands on it," said Kaneko. That being the case, he decided to create a collection called "AOR Classics. The casual "AOR" clothes were reviewed from the ground up and "remixed" by incorporating classic tailored techniques. What is the story behind it? Let Mr. Kaneko and Mr. Yuge tell you as much as they can.

I've really created an ideal system.

And now you two have come together as "AOR Classics".

Kaneko: Basically, I did not change the patterns of "AOR," but changed the way the clothes were made and the materials used to make them, and transformed them into my own style of clothing.

Bow shaving: It's crazy fresh.

Kaneko: For a moment, I thought it might be an "LE" item. (Laughs).

Bow shaving: That's exactly what I had in mind (laughs).

The size and classic design are unique, aren't they?

Kaneko: The name "AOR Classics" was chosen because it means "AOR" with traditional methods. Classics," meaning "AOR" with traditional manufacturing methods. Also, "AOR" clothes are repeatedly updated each season, aren't they? However, I like the form that Mr. Yumigami created in the first season, and that's what I'm using this time. So the word "Classics" also implies a return to the roots.

So you are an early form of "AOR"? What kind of transition did it undergo?

Kaneko: The current items have softer shoulders and are easier to wear without me having to do anything. . That's why I wanted to rearrange the hard-to-wear look of the early items to make them easier to wear.

Bow shaving: My ideal of oversized garments only resonates with a very specific group of people. Therefore, I have revised the fit of the current version so that it will appeal to everyone. However, they are still oversized. However, I wanted to keep the initial form somewhere. I am very happy that Mr. Kaneko reviewed it.

What was your feeling when you designed the early jackets that Kaneko-san arranged this time?

Bow shaving: It's completely Giorgio Giorgio Armani. I thought about how to reconstruct that balance to make it more modern. I changed the materials to modern ones, added functional details, and reconfigured the design to be more like "AOR.

AOR Classics New Milton Keynes ¥88,000

. And now, Mr. Kaneko has replaced it with the classic production method.

Kaneko: . yes. . with wool fabric , and interlining.

Bow shaving: When I made it, it was a completely unconventional jacket, but this time it has been brushed up. When I put my sleeves on it, I said, "Oh! when I put the sleeves on.

The garment has a good length, and the shoulder and body widths are generous as well. The interlining gives the garment a solid shape without being sticky.

Kaneko: If you rely too much on the interlining, you end up with a strange form. Therefore, we were conscious of leaving a certain degree of softness. It was very difficult to find the right balance. For this project, we had a team of people who are experts in tailored garments, and we worked on it while having sessions with them. As a result, this form was created by subtracting.

Bow shaving: I would like to see Kaneko-san wearing it.

I would love to hear from you, please.

Kaneko: What do you think? Personally, I think I've created something really idealistic (laughs). The pants are not too thick.

What kind of fabrics do you use?

Kaneko: It is tailored with Japanese Super 100's fabric, which is easy to wear for both formal and casual wear. . We are aiming for an exquisite balance of being able to wear it without too much care.

Bow shaving: It's crazy good.

Kaneko: The button-down shirts are also based on American traditional brand items. I've chosen to use six buttons, so the collar opening is just right. This is really exactly what I envisioned.

Bow shaving: Of course people of our generation will wear it, but it will also look good on the younger generation. It will have a different atmosphere.

. In addition to saxophone, cream is a very typical Kaneko-san color.

AOR Classics Seine ¥30,800

Bow shaving: You were very particular about the colors.

Kaneko: . It's a color that sometimes appears in vintage clothing, and I really like it . . I think it gives a very chic mood when combined with charcoal.

Bow shaving: There is something about the atmosphere of the 70's that is so crazy. It looks like it could be in a movie.

Kaneko: . I chose a slightly reddish color for the saxophone one. This one has a very beautiful coloring when combined with the blazer. . For both shirts, I dared to select colors that are out of place. The fabrics are slightly delicate, and the fine needlework gives them a dress-like appearance.

Are the slacks straight?

AOR Classics Lodgers ¥55,000

Bow shaving: This is a silhouette not found in "AOR".

Kaneko: The silhouette is like a piped stem, falling down from the waist to the hem. Strictly speaking, there is a slight taper, but it is almost straight. This is my favorite silhouette. Since the jacket is so large, I thought it would be better balanced if the silhouette of the pants was clear.

I would say that the receiving end will be firm.

Kaneko: Yes, I think so. I am wearing leather shoes today, but I think it would be easy to match with sneakers as well. I have a mar belt around my waist, so I think it fits well around my hips and the shirt won't slip up.

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