HOUYHNHNM

bamboo groveWe started our business in 1940. This year marks the 77th anniversary of our founding. We wanted to leave something tangible to mark the auspicious year of "77," so we decided to produce our original glasses.

I have seen a variety of eyeglasses, and recently, many of them tend to be similar. I wanted to create something new to drive a wedge against this trend.

bamboo groveWe have collaborated with various brands in the form of collaborations, but this is the first time we are producing on our own.

bifurcationI want to create glasses from scratch that don't belong anywhere else. I felt this desire when I was approached as a designer.

bamboo groveYes, we do. For example, let's say you collaborated with some brand to produce a pair of glasses. But I don't think the resulting glasses would have been anything new.

bamboo groveThat's right. That is why we dared to ask Mr. Futamata, who is from a completely different field from the field of eyeglasses. I thought he would be able to create something completely new by approaching the item of eyeglasses from a different angle.

bamboo groveIn addition, having seen his previous works, we felt that he would be able to give shape to our ideas. Of course, we value the decorative aspect of his work, but we also thought that he would focus on the aspect of everyday objects and design products that are also functional and practical.

bifurcationI am conscious of that. This time is no different. Rather than sticking to the fashion part, I wanted to create something that is good as a product. I wanted to make a product that functions as a pair of glasses and also looks beautiful when placed on a table. I wanted to make an item that would show such delicate care. I also wanted to create a standard item that would last for generations to come.

bamboo groveI really sympathize with your thoughts. You often say, "Something that lasts for a long time has meaning. You often say that things that remain for a long time have meaning, and that things that people naturally want to pick up have charm. And you always value tradition. He did not only use this project as an opportunity for self-expression as a designer, but also with respect for the history of our company. We are truly grateful.

bamboo groveYes, these glasses were a big trend in the United States from the late 1940s to the 1950s and are still loved by many people. My grandfather, Hideyoshi Araoka, the founder of Araoka Eyeglasses, was also a fan of these glasses. Originally, these glasses were manufactured in Japan after World War II for export to the United States. Gradually, they became popular among the Japanese people as well. In fact, it is the mold that supported the management of Araoka Eyeglasses.

bifurcationWhen I heard Mr. Araoka talk about this, I was able to really get into it. The style is classic and austere, so I thought it would be appropriate for a renewal.

bifurcationNo, there was not. I have worked on products and furniture before, but this time I expected it to be a difficult challenge because it was something to be worn. After all, it is something you wear on your face. To be honest, I was a bit nervous when I heard about the project, but I also felt strongly that I wanted to take on the challenge because of the high degree of difficulty.

bamboo groveSince he doesn't usually wear glasses, we gave him a gift. It is a pair of frames from Lawrence Jenkin Spectacle Maker, a legendary designer who was active in the eyeglass industry in the 70s and 80s, and who once retired but has recently returned to the manufacturing scene. He is known for making frames by hand, and his handiwork is truly one of a kind.

bifurcationIt was a slim frame that oozed delicacy. It had a somewhat analog feel to it, as if I could see the craftsman's hands in action. I felt an even greater link to the frames this time, since we had decided to use acetate (a resin material used for eyeglass frames) instead of metal for the glasses.

bamboo groveYes, in general. However, in the case of Mr. Futamata, I did not feel the need to make detailed orders. I knew that he would not create the browline as it was (laughs). (Laughs) When I suggested, "Would you like me to send you a reference of the browline? (laughs). When I suggested that we send you reference materials for the browline, you said, "No, thank you," didn't you? I thought that by looking at the materials, the image would be tugged away.

bifurcationOf course, I researched the minimum amount of information, but I felt that if I started with knowing everything from scratch, I would end up with something boring. Rather, if there is something I don't know, I think about it each time and move forward. I would accumulate new discoveries as knowledge. I think it is important to work while enjoying such a process. Besides, the answer to the browline was very simple.

bifurcationThe top of the frame is thick and the bottom is thin, which is a clear characteristic, so I wondered how to make the "difference" clearer. I thought it would be good to think about how to make that "difference" clear. We shaped the upper part of the frame so that it looks like a single piece with the temples, and drastically changed the shape of the lower frame. I think this resulted in a solidly shaped upper part and lower part. However, the material is all acetate, so it is not flashy at a glance. Personally, I tend to get tired of flashy things quickly...

bamboo groveYou had a hard time creating a difference in shape between the top and the bottom.

bifurcationThat's right. It requires very delicate work, so it was not possible to do it only with machines.

bamboo groveThe factory also said, "We have never made a frame of this shape before.

bamboo groveIt was not impossible, but there was an atmosphere of "this is going to be very difficult. When the craftsmen looked at the drawings, there were a lot of question marks floating around in their heads, like "How do you make this? When the craftsmen looked at the drawings, there were many question marks floating above their heads.

bifurcationI couldn't imagine how the craftsmen would react when I submitted the drawings (laughs). (Laughs.) After all, I had never made glasses before. I decided to give it a try and visited the factory again when the first sample was completed. When I visited the factory again after the first sample was completed, I found a pair of glasses that looked pretty close to what I had expected.

However, there was one thing that bothered me. That is the upper part of the frame. On the drawing, it was designed as a straight line, but when I actually put it on, it looks kind of...curved.

bamboo groveThe sample was actually made with straight lines, but an optical illusion made the frame look like it was bent in an "upside-down" shape.

bifurcationI discovered that the human face is basically a set of curves, so if you apply a straight line to it, it will appear curved. If the curvature is reversed, the face looks troubled, to put it mildly. We then corrected this in 0.5 mm increments to give the frames a subtle curve. We also fine-tuned the starting point of the curve.

bamboo groveYou have adjusted the drawings at least 10 times since then.

bamboo groveWords cannot express the feelings of surprise and excitement that arose. I thought, "Ah, this is no longer a brow line. As an optician, I can no longer call this a "brow" line. It is neither Wellington nor Boston. My usual habit is to think about which category it fits into....

bamboo groveYes, it was. I felt that a new form of "Elder" had been created. When you try to create something new, it is common to propose an outlandish design. But these glasses are new, yet somehow nostalgic. There is a pleasant sense of discomfort. I felt something that was slowly rising in my heart. I thought, "Perhaps these glasses will be what people will call "classic" glasses 20 years from now. My surprise turned into a certain feeling of hitting the ball.

bifurcationThe most important thing I wanted to emphasize when creating these glasses was that they are new, yet somehow nostalgic. I like both new and old things, and I am interested in the atmosphere they emit.

bifurcationThis is also an important point when designing. No matter how clear and unique the concept is, it is meaningless unless the finished product fits in with people and creates a pleasant atmosphere. In other words, the key point is whether the product and the people can coexist. In the case of eyeglasses, this is even more important because they are attached to the face.

I am going to be blunt, but I think that the number of people who feel they can wear this "Elder_ARAOKAGANKYO" has increased considerably through repeated detailed fine-tuning.

bamboo groveYes, I think they are very well-balanced glasses. Also, this is my personal feeling, but "Elder_ARAOKAGANKYO" is a pair of glasses that makes me want to touch them all the time. I would say that it makes me want to pet it like a cat... (laughs).

bamboo groveI don't know if it's because of the beautiful shape or not, but it actually feels comfortable to the touch and to the skin.

bamboo groveI just remembered that Mr. Futamata once introduced me to a bar. You designed the space yourself, and I remember feeling the same thing when I sat at the counter. The countertop was comfortable to touch. I wondered at the time if the designers were aware of the movement of human beings. At the time, I wondered if they were aware of human movement to that extent.

bifurcationAlthough we were not strongly conscious of "making people want to touch it," we did try to create a comfortable design as a shape by mixing curves and straight lines. Compared to the case of space or architecture, where many combinations of materials are used, the more compact the scale of the product, the simpler it becomes. Especially in this case, since acetate was the only material used, we had to compete only in terms of shape. That is why a really careful design was required.

bamboo groveThe response has been great. Many customers take one look at our products and pick them up, saying that the shape is beautiful. Also, this is something we did not expect, but they are well received by eyeglass enthusiasts. There are cases where people who have tried various types of glasses before see this one and say, "This is new," and purchase it. This is really rare.

bifurcationI am glad.

bamboo groveIf we had released the brochure as is, I am sure we would not have received such a response. I would like to create something that will please everyone again.

bifurcationElder_ARAOKAGANKYO" is a very basic piece, so it seems possible to derive different designs from it. However, I also want to create something completely new. This time it took two years to complete, so even if we do it next time, it will take time... (laughs).

bamboo groveI think that is a good thing. If you try to make something forcibly to suit an exhibition, you will never come up with something satisfactory. I think it is essential to have the premise of "making good products. A good number to start with would be the 80th anniversary, or maybe even the 100th anniversary.

bifurcationWith the 80th anniversary, it's time to get moving.

bamboo groveIt was (laughs).