They have different sensitivities, but their mutual resonance overlapped.
How did the work proceed once everyone agreed?
Kaneko: We had a look at the archives of "Invartia" and discussed how to remix them. We took Mr. Miyashita's mood into account as we built the piece, adding and subtracting details as we went along.
While keeping the catchy details, the hood can be detached with a collar, and the sleeves can be split raglan, so that they are set-in from the front but raglan from the back.
Split raglan specifications are rare for duffels.
Kaneko: You're right, I've never seen that before. I think this was the first time even for Invartia. There was some concern that the overlapping fabric might be too thick, but we decided to give it a try and asked them to make a sample.
Genma: Miyashita was the first to point out the shoulder part, and the mood changed dramatically after he corrected it.
Does the split raglan affect the silhouette?
Kaneko: Structurally, it's almost the same as a single-sleeved raglan sleeve. The key point is that the sleeve pile is low, since a typical duffel has a high sleeve pile and the shoulders feel taut. This leads to a silhouette that does not look like a duffle.
Genma: It's a detail that was originally created to provide movement around the shoulders.
Kaneko: When I try to wear a large size duffel, the shoulders inevitably become taut and the silhouette becomes angular. But with these, I don't have to worry about that.
Did you decide on the details in a session-like manner?
Kaneko: That's right. It was like everyone arrived here without being aware of the finish.
Miyashita: I think so, too. However, I had the feeling that the decision was made easily.
Genma: Kaneko-san is a fashion buyer, isn't he? But he is totally different from other buyers. He goes to remote areas like Argentina. You might think, "Is there anything to buy there? But they buy from there and present their purchases in a fashionable way. I am attracted to their sense of mixing and matching, or their styling ability.
On the other hand, Miyashita-kun has a relentless sense of mixing and matching, and I hoped to see a good chemical reaction between the two, despite their different genres.
Is music the biggest influence on your sense of fashion?
Miyashita: Music and movies are big. But rather than trying hard to absorb them, I take them in more sensitively.
So this duffle coat was born from the combination of Mr. Miyashita's sensibility and Mr. Kaneko's knowledge of clothing.
Kaneko: I don't think there has ever been a traditional brand like Invartia that has added your designs as a fashion designer. Nowadays, there are a lot of special orders, but most of them are done by buyers of select stores or corporate designers.
Genma: That's right. It is interesting that each of them has their own sensibilities, but the parts that resonate with each other overlap to create this kind of thing.
Do you have a moment during a session when you know where you're going to land?
Kaneko: We started to see things more and more during the course of the project. As a result, we were able to create a good product with very little time for meetings, but we were all able to talk about the core of what we were doing. Everyone was satisfied with the final product.
Miyashita: I didn't see it at all. But when I saw the first sample, I had a feeling that it might be good. However, until the final sample was completed, I had some doubts about how it would turn out.
When I start to create something, it inevitably takes time. Sometimes I take my time and then decide not to do it. That is my nature.
Genma: Miyashita-kun is the type of person who is obsessed with perfection, down to the individual buttons. That is why the finished product is so wonderful. It is also significant that Mr. Kaneko was able to give shape to this.
Miyashita: Yeah, I guess so. The balance was very good. If it had been just me, I don't think it would have been finished yet.
The visuals were shot in Shonan. The duffle coat, originally a fisherman's garment, is worn by a surfer over a wetsuit.
