FEATURE｜Override meets 4 designers. 4 designers who bring new life to override Vol.1
override meets 4 designers.
Four designers who bring new life to "override" Vol.1
Japan has long had the custom of dressing up the head. Override," a select store of hats, has been updating the sensibility nurtured by the Japanese people for each era, and has been conveying the charm of hats in a wide range of items. This collaboration between "override" and four brands promoted by HOUYHNHNM's has come to fruition! In this special feature, we interview the designers of the brands and show styling using the collaboration items in the front and back parts of the magazine to unravel the charm of the items. The first part features Mr. Hidetaka Miyagi of "mythography," a well-known blogger on Huinamu Blog, and Ms. ikumi of IKUMI, who is also active as a model. How did these unusual items come to be? We take a closer look at the background behind the items.
Hidetaka Miyagi / mythography Established the shoe brand "MISOGRAPHY" in the fall/winter of 2012. The brand name means mythology or mythological art. The brand expresses itself in a wide range of ways, from standard items such as leather shoes made with the Goodyear welt method and sneakers using new technology, to shoes with a sense of modesty. This fall, he will start a clothing label named "MIYAGIHIDETAKA," bearing his own name.
. I incorporated my favorite things and my current mood into the items.
Mr. Miyagi, you have been selling shoes for a long time.
Imperial PalaceYes . I worked at a shoe brand store for about 7 years. It wasn't that I particularly liked shoes (laughs), but I joined the store because I wanted to work in the fashion industry. When I was in the store, designers would come in, and as a young man at the time, I looked at them with admiration. He taught me a lot about shoes, but I didn't understand what he was saying because I didn't have any knowledge (laughs). . But even though I didn't understand what he was talking about, I was interested in shoes. So, when I had free time, I would draw sketches or take apart shoes and study their structures. I was self-taught, but as I learned more and more, I found myself completely absorbed in shoes.
So that's how you started your own brand. Where do you get your inspiration for your designs?
Imperial Palace. Until now, I had a theme for each season, and I designed according to that theme. However, this fall/winter season is a little different, as I have been incorporating the inspirations from my own life into my shoes. What has not changed between now and then is that I design without lying to myself. I try to create something that fits my feelings at the time. In addition to shoes, I am also interested in designing clothes, so I am putting more effort into that area as well.
And the clothes are self-taught?
Imperial PalaceYes, that's right. I'm the type of person who acts as soon as I have an idea (laughs). . I mean, there are many things that I don't understand unless I do them myself, so I first try to understand them by doing them myself. It's the same with shoemaking; if I don't understand, I can't convey what I want to express when communicating with the factory.
What have been your influences when it comes to fashion?
Imperial PalaceWhen I was young, I loved "Number Nine" anyway. At the time, Mr. Miyashita (Takahiro) was designing the brand, and I was always fascinated by his world view. Mr. Miyashita's influence on me was immeasurable.
Looking at Mr. Miyagi's fashion, I have the impression that he always wears a hat.
Imperial PalaceI like hats. I wear a hat when I exhibit my brand, and usually a cap or beret. I like leather caps and have several.
The item in this collaboration with "Override" is also a leather cap.
Imperial PalaceI made what I like (laughs). With leather, there is a sense of nurturing it, and sometimes you get attached to it by maintaining it. I thought this item would give you the same feeling when you hold it in your hand. Especially the brown color will change over time, and I hope people will enjoy it.
. The visor is also long.
Imperial PalaceMost of the items I own have long visors , and this one does too. For some reason, this shape fits me better. I also like hats with longer brims.
I see embroidery on the back side of the visor.
Imperial PalaceI have incorporated the stitchwork found in Western boots into these boots. I really like Western details, and I had been thinking of incorporating them into this project from the very beginning. I'm kind of attracted to this kind of decorativeness (laughs). When I was working for a shoe brand, the designer recommended a photo book to me and I bought it. It contained images of people living in Paris and the cityscape, but what caught my attention the most was the decoration of the buildings. Since then, I have been interested in decorations, and when I go to museums, I tend to look at the frames rather than the paintings.
Do the lines in these stitches mean anything to you?
Imperial PalaceActually, it is linked to the autumn/winter theme of "MISOGRAPHY. This season's collection is based on the theme of "suits," and when a suit is buttoned up, the placket overlaps, right? The overlapping stitches are meant to represent that. Also, I was conscious of making it look like a flower.
Suits and flowers?
Imperial PalaceYes . I think that the act of wearing a suit is connected to a sense of maturity. In a sense, flowers also have a certain leeway, a beauty that can be recognized only after one has become an adult. This feeling has been growing inside me, and that is why I chose to express suits and flowers here. I was told that I could do whatever I wanted, so I included my current mood and what I like in my work to the point where I was like, "This is it! I put in what I was feeling and what I liked.
Style of Hidetaka Miyagi.
."I incorporated many of my favorite elements into this collaborative item," said Miyagi. We asked Mr. Miyagi, who usually wears a cap with a long visor, to show us how he styled this item. In the interview, he was wearing a shirt with a remade bandana and black slacks, while he was also wearing a long coat, which blends in well with his beautiful styling.
.". I wanted to convey the versatility of this item, so I was conscious of dressing it differently than during the interview. Since suits are a trend in my mind, I coordinate it with a scarf, slacks, and opera shoes to look like a gentleman. The cap is leather and shiny, so it gives me class when I am casual, and it naturally matches with a mode and mature look like this styling. I personally hope that the customer who picks up this item will also match it with a slightly more clean-cut look."
A leather cap for adults with attention to detail scattered throughout.
override × mythography LEATHER CAP ¥18,000+TAX
The cap, made of cowhide leather, is an ambitious work with fine western stitching on the back of the visor. With many years of use, you can enjoy the leather's change over time. The visor is designed to be long, giving the cap a somewhat mode impression. The satin lining with a glossy sheen gives the cap a luxurious feel and a sense of adult refinement.
