【FOCUS IT.] Going back 23 years, Hisaya Kanno pays homage to the cult-favorite outfit from 2002.

Clothes that you wanted so badly back then but couldn't get. If you are a fashion lover, you probably have one or two of them. Thinking back to those days, Hisaya Kanno, the designer of "SandWaterr" and "THRIFTWEARMARKET & FLEA MARKET TOUrr," paid homage to a piece of clothing created by Takahiro Miyashita in 2002. It was designed in a different mood than it was back then, so it is cool to wear now. In this interview, we asked Mr. Kanno about his thoughts on this item, which was finally completed after fulfilling his wish.

Photo_Shunsuke Kondo
Edit_Amame Yasuda

Respect for the items you admire.

I heard that the items you have created for the "Thriftware Market and Flea Market Tour" pay homage to items that the designer, Takahiro Miyashita, used to make.

Kanno:Yes, that's right. Apart from "Sandwater," I am involved in a project called "Thriftware Market and Flea Market Tour. I sell used clothing that I have been collecting, and I also direct workshops and other events and pop-ups. As part of this project, I sometimes collaborate with brands and am entrusted with their designs, and the designer I worked with this time was Takahiro Miyashita, whom I admire and respect.

I see. Could you tell us why Mr. Kanno approached Mr. Miyashita this time?

Kanno:It's a long story (laughs). It is no exaggeration to say that Mr. Miyashita was the person who inspired me to become a designer, and he is the designer who has had the greatest influence on me. I wanted to do something with him, and it finally came true.

I see. When did you say you were influenced by him?

Kanno:I was in my early 20s. I have loved clothes ever since I can remember, so I had already started working in the fashion industry while going to high school. At the time, I was working in customer service as a store staff at a select store in Harajuku. It's gone now, so the younger generation may not know about it. The street where the store was located is called "00 Street.

I didn't know that. I didn't know there was such a legendary store.

Kanno:There were days when I had free time for a whole day (laughs). At that time, A BATHING APE and NEIGHBORHOOD, which were located nearby, were really popular. But one day, I found an invitation to a runway show for a brand by Takahiro Miyashita, which is even more popular than A BATHING APE and NEIGHBORHOOD, in the store mailbox. I told the manager about it, and to my surprise, he told me that Mr. Miyashita had also worked at the same store in the past. And, lucky for me, I was allowed to go to the runway.

What a coincidence! How was the show back then?

Kanno:It was so cool. I remember being quite influenced by it. At the same time, I remember thinking that if my senpai who worked at the same store could do something this cool, I wanted to be a designer too. It was a good thing I was young and misunderstood (laughs). (laugh) At that show, there were many people who were active on the front lines of the fashion industry, and it was quite stimulating for me, who was in my early twenties at the time.

When I see people working on the front lines, I understand how it makes me stand taller.

Kanno:That's right. I am sure I was influenced by him at that time, but I actually got acquainted with Mr. Miyashita when I was 30 years old. I was working as an assistant designer.

I will never forget the moment when I first talked to the person I admired so much. How did you come to this production?

Kanno:From the moment we met, I knew I wanted to make clothes together. I had designed a brand at the company I worked for before, but it didn't happen because I was still inexperienced. Several years have passed since I became independent, but my desire to work with Mr. Miyashita has not changed.

Did Mr. Miyashita finally agree to do it?

Kanno:I was thrilled in my own way to consult with him, and he said something like, "Okay, I'll leave it to you. I was very impressed by the remake clothes that Mr. Miyashita used to design. I wanted one so badly at the time, but I couldn't get it, so I thought I had no choice but to make one. I love vintage clothes myself, and there were many remake projects in the "Thriftware Market and Flea Market Tour," so I decided to complete this item.

The brand name on the tag is "Music by" instead of "Designed by," which is typical of Mr. Miyashita, a music lover.

Kanno:That's right. THRIFTWEARMARKET & FLEA MARKET TOUrr music by TAKAHIRO MIYASHITA" is a special brand name created for this project.

I can sense that you are a music lover through the clothes you design, can't you?

Kanno:Yes, that's right. This time, I have rearranged them. The original was a moderate fit, but the pattern has been reworked to create the baggy, roomy silhouette that I like.

Is this the original item from that time?

Kanno:Yes, I do. Corporate logos are usually on T-shirts, and you can't make them today. That is why the T-shirts used in this remake were selected from live performances and events overseas, mainly in the United States.

I know things are getting tougher nowadays. What was the main point you focused on for this item?

Kanno:I think that overdyeing and vintage processing are becoming more mainstream in designing products as the faded look of vintage clothing is gaining more attention. So, I always wanted to incorporate the fade feeling. To express this strongly, I dared to use black vintage T-shirts for all the fabrics. For the embroidery that connects the fabrics, I chose charcoal with black lamé, valuing a deep gradation. I expressed a casual but also a little bit adult coloring.

Yes, it does have a certain elegance to it.

Kanno:Another important point is that we asked the very same factory that made the original to produce the product at that time. The data for the embroidery was also reproduced, and we were able to make it while looking back on those days with the person who cut the fabric. I think the level of reproduction is quite high.

I see. If it's all done by hand, it must be pricey...?

Kanno:The price is ¥99,999 and 9 pieces will be sold. The reason why I stuck with the number "9" is obvious to those who understand. For me, this is exactly where I put my respect for Mr. Miyashita.

I see that selling at this price and by the number of pieces is one of your specialties. I am very much looking forward to seeing how the people who pick up the items will wear them.

Kanno:Yes, I think so. Of course, I would like people to wear it as they wish, but if it were me, I would wear it with slacks. I would wear it with slacks and sandals on my feet. I think it is good to enjoy wearing it while enjoying such a balance.