【FOCUS IT.] Cutting out the trivial richness of everyday life. What is Bedford's current vision of "alternative elegance"?

BED j.w. FORD recently presented its Spring/Summer 2026 collection "Wink" at Paris Fashion Week. For this interview, we asked the designer Shinpei Yamagishi about the concept of "alternative elegance" that the brand has been promoting in recent years, 15 years after its launch. What is Bedford's current message through the clothes it continues to create, inspired by the beauty hidden in everyday life?

Photo_Koichiro Iwamoto
Edit_Amame Yasuda

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The true nature of "elegance" is explored.

Please tell us again about the Bedford brand.

Yamagishi:I make clothes based on the premise of "dressing up" and portraying the image of men as narcissists and romantics. These keywords may sometimes give people a negative impression, but I want to emphasize the importance of these impressions as well.

I was young when I started the brand, but now that both the brand and I have matured a bit, I have realized that people are looking for something that has "elegance" in it. That is why in recent years, I have been focusing on the term "Alternative Elegance. I hope you will think of Bedford as an organization that explores the true nature of the "elegance" that lurks in everyday life.

You continue to express what elegance is through your clothes. When did you start to use this word?

Yamagishi:It is time for Corona in 2020. It was time to slow down and think.

I see. Did your creations change as a result?

Yamagishi:I don't think the creation itself has changed. However, the resolution of the entire team has improved, and I feel that we have a clearer idea of what is important to us and what we want to express. We have a clearer sense of what we are doing and what we want to express. As a result of the increased precision of what we are doing, we are also clearer about what we do not need to do.

Can we say that the turning point for you was when you started to use the term "alternative elegance"?

Yamagishi:That may be so. Naturally, the Corona period was not a good time because of the sense of stagnation, but looking back, I think it was a time to think carefully about the future of the brand.

It has been 15 years since Bedford began. Are there any items that have been particularly popular?

Yamagishi:I am ashamed to say this, but there is no particular item that has sold in record numbers. I don't really feel that the brand's recognition has spread through the popularity of individual items, and I think it has grown through steady proposals of styles.

In a way, it is a healthy way to expand.

Yamagishi:I am happy and grateful. And I am the one who wanted it so much. Of course, there were tough times.

What were some of the toughest times?

Yamagishi:It was probably just around the time when there was a mood of luxury street dominance that gained momentum around 2015. I think I just didn't fit in well, and it was not compatible with the ideology and style that I wanted to propose. I felt a bit alienated and out of touch with the mainstream at the time, and it was a tough time for me. I myself love the world of the street, but it was difficult to find meaning in expressing it in our own brand. It was a time when I was very troubled.

I see. Conversely, nowadays, traditional fashion is spreading, and I think it fits the current trend. I would like to ask you about the core items that form the brand's style.

Yamagishi:My most precious item is a long coat. I still have a strong yearning for fashion itself. Among them, long coats in particular have an urban appeal to me. I believe that we have carefully and meticulously created this category through our brand, and it is a category that makes me want to continue to challenge it in the future.

When you think of "Bedford", I guess you also have a strong impression of its shirts.

Yamagishi:I am very happy to hear your feedback. I myself often wear shirts on a daily basis, so I have been making shirts for everyday wear for a long time. Perhaps that is why I am attracted to brands that can create a mood with just one shirt. Take Anne Demeulemeester, for example. I was very impressed with and admired the shirts she made, and she is one of the designers who strongly influenced me.

I see that it is an indispensable item for you, Mr. Yamagishi. I have the impression that Bedford has more of a "real clothes" style in recent years than when the brand was first established.

Yamagishi:I think it may be. Maybe it is because I am getting a little older. I like eccentric things, but as I got older, I began to think that there was no need to be so fussy. I have come to accept ideas that come down to me in an ordinary moment, and I have come to accept them honestly. Maybe that's why I'm naturally getting closer to real clothes. That's what I'm looking for now. I like the process of adding a little bit of discomfort to the realism.

I see. You want a little bit of discomfort in a universal item.

Yamagishi:It only takes a little. But I hope that the little bit will create something unique and one-of-a-kind. I hope to add an idea to something familiar to create a new meaning, and I make my work with the hope that this will be the case.

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By "dressing up," you can be proud of your one and only self.

Please tell us about your career up until the establishment of Bedford.

Yamagishi:I started out as a sales clerk at a vintage clothing store. I then worked for Setsumasa Kobayashi of Mountain Research, and started my own business, Bedford.

I see. Mr. Yamagishi, who worked at Mountain Research, says that Mr. Kobayashi was one of your influences.

Yamagishi:Although we do not see each other often, I still get nervous when we meet, and there are moments when I am more aware of his greatness now that he has started his own brand than when I was working for him.

What exactly do you mean by that?

Yamagishi:Not to mention the depth of his generosity and personality, I feel even more impressed now that I have seen how great he is at making clothes. I have always felt that it is difficult to express what I am thinking in my head in a concise manner in a single piece of clothing, and I think you have done that. You are very urban and stylish in a way.

long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)It is surprisingly difficult to express yourself in a straightforward manner.

Yamagishi:That's right. I realized this when I started making clothes. This is a digression, but there are a certain number of young men who wear makeup, have hair removal, and clean their nails. I don't do it, but when I look at them, I think it's very nice. They are very sensitive to how they want to be seen, and they act honestly.

Isn't that kind of thinking similar to the concept of the Bedford brand?

Yamagishi:Maybe so. When I think of the past, I almost break out in a weird sweat of embarrassment, but I think that back then I genuinely wanted to be the ideal me that I envisioned by wearing clothes. But for some reason, I was embarrassed to have such pure feelings, and I questioned the trend and the atmosphere of the times, which I perceived as negative. I thought that I should be more proud of my one and only self in the attire I liked, and even now my way of thinking has not changed much.

As you say, we should cherish such feelings. It would be a shame to just dismiss them as "narcissistic. I think fashion is one tool to be proud of who you are.

Yamagishi:That is the kind of clothing I want to make. Clothes may not necessarily be the tool to make you like yourself, but I believe that people who have something to keep themselves strong.

I really think so. Are there other designers besides Mr. Kobayashi who have influenced your sense of values?

Yamagishi:They are Anne Demeulemeester, Takahiro Miyashita, and Dries Van Noten, whom I mentioned earlier. Their creations have left an overwhelming impression on me. The words "romanticism" and "elegance," which I value so much, fit perfectly. I am ashamed to admit that I genuinely wanted to be a part of this world when I saw the look. I think it was because of this that I was able to find the core of Bedford. The three of you gave me a lot of influence and courage, and I still admire you.

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The inspiration for this work comes from ordinary, everyday moments.

What is the inspiration behind the Bedford collection?

Yamagishi:Basically, I am inspired by everyday life. A phrase that just happened to come up in conversation, and I thought, "This expression is wonderful. It often starts from something very trivial. Of course, there are things I get from unusual stimuli, but I am not looking for that much. I focus on looking for what is hidden in the ordinary. If I cherish such time, I can be open to the information and stimulation that comes my way when I go outside.

Detachable tie with button.

Elastic band for easy rolling up of sleeves.

Did the iconic gimmicks that are unique to Bedford also come from your everyday awareness?

Yamagishi:I am a rather tedious person. I can't be bothered to tie a tie every time, so I decided to express this in a button-down style, or to add an elastic band so that anyone can instantly roll up the sleeves in an ideal way. It sounds good to call it a gimmick, but it may be closer to the wisdom of life. When it works, it makes me happy to think, "I guess that was a blind spot." I am happy when I think, "I didn't know it was a blind spot.

I see...so you did...why did you choose "Wink" as the theme for the spring/summer 2026 season?

Yamagishi:When I turn on the TV in the morning, as a matter of course, I hear unpleasant news from all over the world, and it makes me bitter. Wars are happening all over the world and the economy is unstable. Even an uneducated person such as myself can't help but feel scared about the future. Then I had an opportunity to review a book of paintings by Norman Rockwell. It is not that I particularly like him, but I felt that he lived in a historical background very similar to that of today, and his attitude of cutting out and depicting the trivial happiness of daily life is really wonderful. I wanted to have an eye that could capture that kind of happiness, so I named my work "Wink" after the gesture of meditating with one eye when releasing the shutter.

What would you say is the symbolic item of this season?

Yamagishi:I have several, but I like this jacket. The balance between the nepiness unique to silk threads and the sweetness of hand-woven fabrics is well balanced, and this is reflected in the texture. It is a universal item, but I think it has a mood that is uniquely Bedford.

Yamagishi:And then there is this long coat. While the expression of the outer fabric creates a mood, details such as pockets are also expressed on the inside.

Yamagishi:In terms of expressing a slight twist on an item that feels deja vu, this check shirt speaks to the brand's design codes. It is tailored with a sophisticated mood that you would not encounter in a thrift store.

It is true that madras checks are often seen in American vintage clothing, but the transparency and silhouette give it an elegant finish. Do you incorporate these unique Bedford ideas into the styling of your shows?

Yamagishi:Yes, I do. The stylist who is in charge of styling.Maurizio.We don't order a lot of things from them, because they understand what we value very much. They are always natural, and I think they express "elegance" well without being obnoxious.

Spring-Summer 2026 "Wink" Collection

Bedford's style is exactly the kind of proposal that I can imagine as everyday wear, and it makes me want to actually try on the items. And you have a wide range of ways to express yourself, not only through shows and exhibitions, but also through presentations and video production.

Yamagishi:This is the first time we have held a presentation in Paris, hoping that it will be a good opportunity to communicate with the guests who come to the event. The atmosphere is like a casual home party with drinks. We started making the video around June 2024. I think it turned out great, thanks to the excellent people around me.

It's very valuable to be in a place where you can directly see the reaction of the customers. By watching this season's video along with the looks, I was able to directly feel the atmosphere of the collection. Finally, what is your definition of "alternative elegance" at this point?

Yamagishi:It is a little different from a formal one. It is beautiful, but there is a glimpse of the person's personality and a sense of humanity in it. I feel "alternative elegance" in such things. I am sure that I will discover new things in the future, so I would like to continue my quest.