Not only bears and salmon. Come and find out what Ainu traditional crafts are all about today.

Like the Aborigines and Native Americans, Japan has its own indigenous people. They are the Ainu, who live in the northern lands. One of their major strongholds is Ainu Kotan (Kotan means "village") on the shores of Lake Akan in eastern Hokkaido. It is not only known as a sightseeing spot, but also as a place where traditional Ainu crafts, an essential part of Ainu life, are still alive. Many people would probably associate Ainu x traditional crafts with "bears holding salmon in their mouths," but this is not the case at all. We will guide you to the real Ainu traditional crafts, which are much deeper than that.

Photo_Hiroyuki Takenouchi
Text_Keisuke Kimura

---

Sacred earth watched over by Kamui.

Lake Akan was formed by volcanic activity about 150,000 years ago.

The marimo of Lake Akan is in danger of extinction. It is also a national special natural treasure.

The air is endlessly clear, and at night you can observe a star-filled sky.

Lake Akan was formed by volcanic activity about 150,000 years ago. Although there are various theories, it is said that "akan" means "motionless" in the Ainu language and represents the tranquility of the lake's surface. The primeval forests of the national park surrounding this beautiful lake are lush with plants such as Ezo spruce and Abies sachalinensis, and are home to brown bears, Ezo sika deer, and the marimo, a special natural treasure.

The Ainu Kotan is located on the shores of Lake Akan.

Walking through the kotan, which is formed by small slopes, one can see buildings that resemble traditional cises (houses) and nusasan (altars), which are places of sacred rituals, with souvenir shops lining the street on either side.

At the Lake Akan Ainu Theater "Ikoㇿ," traditional ancient dances as well as performances incorporating digital art are shown daily.

Although it is a tourist destination, the Ainu people still live here, and as a "living community," they are responsible for passing on their traditional culture and spirituality to the next generation. The Ainu people still make crafts that reflect their reverence for the Kamuy (gods) in their daily lives.

The craft in modern Ainu kotan is not just carved wooden bears with salmon added. Nor is it an owl. It was a unique evolution, a fusion of traditional techniques and modern sensibilities.

---

Handicrafts handed down to the Ainu people and the crafts that come from them.

However, this is a tourist destination. There are many souvenir stores, and if it is your first visit, it is difficult to know which store to go to and what to buy. Moreover, most of the stores do not have websites or social networking services. We cannot introduce all of them, but here is a sampling of some of them. If you visit the stores introduced here, you will surely find a product that resonates with you. Let us introduce you to places where you can truly feel the handiwork of the Ainu people.

---

SHOP.1 Epoepo

Kaoru Morita, the owner of the store, still works on wood carving every day even though he is over 70 years old.

Epoepo means "surprise" in Ainu language. The store is unique in that most of the items in the store are made by the owner, Kaoru Morita, who was born in 1952 and began making wood carvings in earnest when he was 18 years old, and has been a craftsman for over 50 years. He mainly produces ikupasui (ritual utensils used to offer sake to the Ainu), which can only be made by people of Ainu descent, and decorative items carved with Ainu patterns. Mr. Morita is both austere in appearance and interesting to talk to. Ask him about his passion for Ainu crafts and find out what he has to offer.

Morita-san says, "It's fun to make ikupasui. It is an essential part of Ainu rituals.

Necklace with an engraved Ainu pattern. When they have time, they will engrave the back.

epoepo

Address: 4-7-24, Akanko-onsen, Akan-cho, Kushiro City, Hokkaido (in Ainu Kotan)
Phone: 0154-67-2733

---

SHOP.2 Forest People

At Morinojin, a store located at the entrance to Ainu Kotan, you will find elaborate makiri, carefully crafted over a long period of time. A makiri is simply a small knife, a useful tool used by the Ainu people since ancient times. It was used to hunt wild vegetables in the mountains and to handle deer and other animals. What makes the makiri different from ordinary small knives is that it is carved. The "Morinojin" makiri, one of the most popular Ainu kotan, is engraved with an Ainu pattern in fine lines, and is also popular overseas. They are a picturesque item just by being displayed.

Makiri so elaborately carved that it is a shame to use. ¥130,000-.

person from the forest

Address: 4-3-18, Akanko-onsen, Akan-cho, Kushiro City, Hokkaido
Phone: 0154-67-2986

---

SHOP.3 Itchinge's Shop

The store was owned by Masamitsu Takiguchi, a leading woodcarver in Akan. His son, Kengo, has now taken over the business. Kengo's most famous work is a bear. Unlike the four-legged bears that are a staple of Hokkaido souvenirs, however, the bear with its buttocks flat on the ground is original and endearing. Recently, the shop has produced bears painted with "Venta Black," which is said to be the blackest paint in the world, and they continue to sell out immediately. If you visit the store and make a reservation, there is a good chance you can purchase one. Accessories made from deer antlers and whale teeth are also cool.

Wood carving of a bear using the world's blackest paint. Mr. Takiguchi's wood carved bears have many fans throughout Japan.

Itchinge's Shop

Address: 4-7-10 Akanko-onsen, Akan-cho, Kushiro City
Phone: 0154-67-2816

---

SHOP.4 Yukarado

In addition to his own works, the "Eukaladoh" exhibits works by his father, Tokonuburi.

The store is run by Toko Shusei, a woodcarving artist and Ainu stage director mentioned above. His father, Toko Nuburi, opened the store, which has been in business for nearly 80 years. He told us about those days, "Back then, we used to keep a brown bear in the store to attract customers." Mr. Tokoro makes ita, a traditional Ainu tray. Ita, carved with unique Ainu patterns, can be displayed or used. Tokoro-san is also active in exchanges with artists in Hokkaido, and in his store you can see many handicrafts not only from Ainu but from Hokkaido as well.

The lacquered ita is as beautiful as an art piece.

Mr. Toko Shusei is the owner of the restaurant. Besides being a writer and stage director, he is also involved in activities to promote Ainu culture throughout Japan.

yukarado (Ainu oral saga)

Address: 4-7-11, Akanko-onsen, Akan-cho, Kushiro City, Hokkaido
Phone: 0154-67-2037

---

SHOP.5 Hikawa Mingei Shop

At the "Hikawa Folk Crafts Store" located at the top of the hill in Ainu Kotan, you should definitely see Tumusi carvings. Tumusi carving is a traditional Ainu technique of carving a single piece of wood into a chain shape, and Kiyoshi Hikawa, who runs the store, is a master of tumusi carving. Kiyoshi Hikawa, who runs the shop, is a master of tumsi carving. He says that a high level of skill is required because if he makes a slight mistake, the carving will not be chain-shaped. Only a few people in Ainu Kotan have mastered this carving technique. For this reason, Mr. Hikawa's work is highly regarded both in Japan and abroad, and he rarely has any in stock. If you are lucky enough to find one, you should definitely get it.

Owls and bears are the motifs for Tumusi carvings. Larger sizes are especially popular and rarely found in stores.

Hikawa Folk Crafts Store

Address: 4-7-18, Akanko-onsen, Akan-cho, Kushiro City, Hokkaido
Phone: 0154-67-2161

---

Other Spot_Mingei Cafe Polonnno

Last but not least is Ainu Kotan, a restaurant serving traditional Ainu cuisine. Among the Ainu dishes, there are many menu items lined up that use yuㇰ (deer), and the most popular is a set meal that includes yuㇰohau (deer soup), amaㇺ (cooked rice), and kirikomi herring (fish marinated in malted rice). As with any place you go, the best way to learn about the local culture is to start with the food that is rooted in the area. Try it! The restaurant also has many Ainu folk art items on display, and it is worth a visit just to see them.

Traditional Ainu set menus. Seasoning is minimal and all dishes have a gentle taste.

Folk Art Cafe Poronno

Address: 4-7-8, Akanko-onsen, Akan-cho, Kushiro City, Hokkaido
Phone: 0154-67-2159

---

The Ainu way of life as seen in Akibe Deb's life.

woman who has lost a man's affection or interest (as does a woman call herself)
Born as an Ainu in 1960 in Akanko Onsen. Currently he is a scriptwriter-director, folk art store owner, actor, and Ainu butoh dancer.

Here is a small glimpse into the life of Akibe Deb, who was born and raised in Ainu Kotan and is active as a woodcarver.

Rockin' Deb arrived early in the morning in a pickup truck with the Stones leaking to the outside of the vehicle. On this day, he was going to the forest to pick up materials for the ritual, so I decided to accompany him.

After a 10-minute drive by car, we arrived at our destination. This is a place that Deb says she comes to at least once a week. As soon as she gets out of the car, she straps a saw and two large knives around her waist with a familiar hand.

You ask, "Why would I take two of those?　The saw is for cutting wood, and the Rambo knife is for self-defense. Without it, the way you look at me and your attitude will change. Brown bears will attack you if you show weakness.

The eastern part of Hokkaido, where Lake Akan is located, is one of the most brown bear prone areas in Hokkaido. So always be on the lookout for brown bears.

Today we are going to cut some willow trees for the inau, follow me."

Inau is an Ainu ritual implement. Willow trees are often used, and it is said that there are good willow trees in this area. They head deep into the forest, find a tree instantly, and cut it down without hesitation.

The reason I can find the willow tree so quickly is because I usually explore the forest. I already know where everything is. When I need it, I'm like, 'There's that tree over there,' and I know everything about the mountain.

Deb's store in Ainu Kotan. In addition to her own works, she also carries a wide variety of fabrics.

After procuring materials, Deb returned to Cotentin and began working in front of her store. With a well-worn makiri (small knife) in his hand, he whittles wood.

The inau is an important Ainu ritual tool, and is indispensable when praying to the kamui. It is also used to worship the god of fire, so it is sometimes placed on the hearth. The history of the inau dates back to the Muromachi period.

The completed inau. After it is used in a ritual, it is "returned" to a place deep in the forest, where no one will notice it.

Watching the production process, one senses the passage of time, which is the opposite of modern efficiency and rationality. The craftsmen procure their own materials and do not use machines or power tools, but work entirely by hand. Perhaps this time is the essence of Ainu folk art and craft.

Without rushing or hurrying, and while surrendering to the rhythm of nature, we give shape to the work through dialogue with Kamui.

I have to make 28 Inau by the end of the day, so we'll talk again later."

---

Ainu crafts that give form to prayers.

When you walk around Ainu Kotan and look at the handiwork of the makers, not only Deb, but you will understand that these are not just handicrafts, but the spirituality and view of nature of the land that gives form to them.

Prayers to the Kamuy, reverence for all things in the forest, and the skills and spirit that have been passed down from generation to generation. I believe that the essence of Ainu craftsmanship is the work in which all of these things are incorporated.

Even though it is mid-summer, Ainu Kotan has high temperatures of less than 25 degrees Celsius on some days. Please visit Ainu Kotan to look for handicrafts and to avoid the summer heat. There is also an event like this.