In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
It’s our 16th season, with a completely refreshed lineup of shops! For our 127th episode, we’re back with YUTA from “FiLo__Store”—the sister shop of “Mr. Chubby,” a popular vintage spot in the highly competitive Koenji district—for his second round. What kind of new vintage finds will he be introducing this time!?
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
YUTA / Owner, FiLo__Store
Vol. 127: Nonfiction by Tiger Brand Crew Neck Sweatshirt
—So, this is our second round—what new vintages will you be introducing to us?
Since my last post was about small accessories, I thought I’d introduce a plain sweatshirt that’s truly a “hidden gem” known only to those in the know. That would be this . I’ve been interested in them and collecting them for a few years now, and I’m sure there are quite a few people in the industry who think, “There’s just something about these sweatshirts.”
Nonfiction by Tiger Brand Crew Neck Sweatshirt ¥12,100 (Philo Store)
—What do vintage clothing enthusiasts generally think of it?
I'm guessing... but if anyone is reviewing these sweatshirts, they must really be into this stuff.
—What kind of brand is (hereinafter referred to as “NON-FICTION”)?
It might be more accurate to think of this Canadian brand—or perhaps manufacturer—as specializing in blank-body apparel. Basically, the only items you’ll find are sweatshirts. And even those are almost exclusively crewnecks; hoodies are rarely seen. However, zip-up hoodies do turn up on the rare occasion. Oh, I just looked it up online, and it seems the prevailing theory is that there’s a clothing manufacturer called “Tiger Brand,” and within that, the name of the casual line that carries blank-body sweatshirts is “Nonfiction.” I see.
"Oh, really? Is it because it's Canada that they're wearing sweatshirts?"
It seems that, given the cold climate, sweatshirts that offer excellent warmth are particularly popular. Brands like Gym Master and House of Blanks are well-known, aren't they?
—The latter is also known for being used by Supreme for its apparel.
In fact, there are persistent rumors that this “Nonfiction” brand was also used as the base fabric for early “Supreme” pieces. There’s no concrete proof—it’s just a rumor—but conversely, there’s no proof that it wasn’t used either, so the truth remains a mystery. It’s also possible that someone who found a piece embroidered with “Supreme” misinterpreted it, and the rumor spread from there.
—It sounds like it would be interesting to explore that further. But, if I may say so, it’s actually pretty ordinary.
That's right. At first glance, they look ordinary, but if I had to name one distinctive feature here, it would be how often you see items with the company logo embroidered on them. Usually, items with embroidered logos are the exception, but here it’s the opposite—it feels like 60 to 70 percent have embroidery, while the plain ones are actually the rarer ones. So, at our shop, we try to pick out the plain ones, even though there aren’t many, because they’re so comfortable to wear.
Nonfiction by Tiger Brand Crew Neck Sweatshirt ¥12,100 (Philo Store)
Nonfiction by Tiger Brand Crew Neck Sweatshirt ¥ 11,000 (Philo Store)
—This ribbing is also quite distinctive.
You know, what do you even call this style? It’s so unique that you can tell just by the feel of the ribbing, even when you’re just holding it up. The tapered silhouette is another key feature. Later on, the hem ribbing was removed and it changed to a straight, drop-off silhouette, but personally, I’m not a big fan of that version.
—First of all, could you tell us why you got into *Nonfiction* sweatshirts?
I’ve always liked sweatshirts, but I could never quite find one I really liked. My personal preference is for the fit and comfort of 1990s-era Polo Ralph Lauren, so I started paying attention to this one because it reminded me of that style. The silhouette is boxy, similar to the popular styles of recent years. The fabric is high-density and substantial, yet it’s not too stiff and has a soft feel. I really like that relaxed vibe—it doesn’t require me to try too hard.
—This time, in addition to black and navy, you’ve also provided burgundy and light blue. Do you offer a wide range of colors?
No, basically these are the main colors, though there are also standard shades like gray and heather gray. Since these uniforms are often used with company logos, it makes sense that the lineup includes neutral colors that don’t show dirt easily. Come to think of it, sweatshirts from a brand called WIND RIVER, which uses a body very similar to this one, have also appeared on the market, and I suspect that Nonfiction is handling the OEM production for those as well.
Nonfiction by Tiger Brand Crew Neck Sweatshirt ¥12,100 (Philo Store)
Nonfiction by Tiger Brand Crew Neck Sweatshirt ¥12,100 (Philo Store)
—It looks like there’s a lot to discover as I dig deeper, and this might actually be the most useful item of all.
That’s definitely true. Most of them are on the larger side—size L and up—but they actually feel surprisingly comfortable when you wear them. The average price at our store is just over 10,000 yen. I’m featuring them here today, but I can’t imagine their popularity suddenly skyrocketing and prices soaring because of it (lol). True to their name, as “real, understated gems,” I think they’ll continue to be a staple of the “new vintage” scene for a long time to come.
YUTA / Owner, FiLo__Store
While running "Mr. Chubby" with his partner Kazuma in Koenji, known as a fierce battleground for vintage clothing, they opened a sister store, FiLo__Store, in April 2025. The items purchased mainly from the U.S. and Europe are vintage and regular "used clothes" as well as domestic and maison brands, both new and old, and are all good items that their antennae have caught.
Instagram:@filo__store
