Takashi Kumagai is active in the fashion industry as a stylist, photographer, and director. In recent years, he has been working energetically on "WIND AND SEA," a casual brand that incorporates street style. To commemorate the December 22 relocation and reopening of the eponymous store from Komazawa to Nakameguro, we spoke with Mr. Kumagai about WIND AND SEA, which he says has been full of new challenges in his career to date.
WIND AND SEA is an attempt to operate with a database.
WIND AND SEA has just moved from Komazawa to Nakameguro, but can you tell us again how WIND AND SEA got started?
Kumagai："WIND AND SEA" was originally the name of a general store I ran on Komazawa Park Avenue, selling vintage American clothing and accessories I had bought. Later, I was involved in the direction of a store called "CPCM," which summed up the entire worldview I was aiming for. In the meantime, I made an original "WIND AND SEA" T-shirt, which was better received than I had expected, as street fashion was becoming more and more mainstream. At that time, I remembered the time when I used to work for "GDC," and I thought I would like to try making T-shirts again. However, I thought that it would not be good to use various names within the name Takashi Kumagai, so I decided to use the brand name "WIND AND SEA.
When you decided to change the brand from a store original to a full-fledged brand, did you have a new concept in mind?
Kumagai: The concept remains the same, to create what you genuinely want to create. In addition, it was my first attempt to do it online. Since it was online-based, I felt that the physical store could be small, so I was doing it in Komazawa, which is only about 3.5 square meters, but as expected, the number of products was increasing. Then, I decided to move to this space, which was originally used as a photo studio, to make it my main base.
How do you separate Nessence, which is also run by Mr. Kumagai, and WIND AND SEA?
Kumagai: As you can see, "Nessence" is a brand inspired by vintage clothing from Europe and vintage clothing that I have been wearing for a long time. WIND AND SEA" is more of a test for me, and since it is online, it is an attempt to operate with a database to see what sold and what did not, what type of customers were the most likely to buy, etc. " Kumagai: As you can see, "Nessence" is a brand inspired by vintage clothing that I have been wearing for a long time.
Kumagai-san, you have your own ideas at the core of what you want to create, but you also reflect the reactions of your customers and the market.
Kumagai: Yes.
You have a long career and have done a lot of different jobs, but what made you decide to focus on the customer's reaction once again?
Kumagai：After working in this business for many years, I have a good understanding of people in their late 30s and 40s, but I honestly don't know anything about people younger than that. So, as an indicator, I would like to know how well I can respond to people of that age group. On the other hand, if I erase myself and let my brand walk alone, will they turn to me? . I try to look at all of these things in the data. I try to look at all of these things in the data. So, people who like my photos should be impressed by my photo T released for the opening, and people who like the taste of "#FR2" should pick up the items in collaboration with "#FR2. Customers react differently to different graphics, so we are experimenting with different ideas.
Rather than a well-constructed worldview, I imagine that each item is a piece in its own right.
Kumagai: Yes, that's right. . that is what makes it "WIND AND SEA" as a whole.
I see. Was the reason for the relocation really just a matter of scale?
Kumagai: Yes. Also, we have more and more visitors from overseas, and I hear them say, "It's a little too far away from here.
What are the key points of the interior design of WIND AND SEA NAKAMEGURO?
Kumagai：The interior of the previous rooms had deer antlers and a desert-like feel, but this time, I removed all of that and focused on the "new WIND AND SEA" aspect of the room.
Kumagai: It is a continuation of your past activities, but it is also something completely new.
Kumagai: Yes, that's right. It is true that the way you see it is the exact opposite.
The engine has started, so I thought, let's not stop and go.
#FR2" and "Kästify" are collaborating on a new item to commemorate the relocation. How did this come about?
Kumagai: Since returning to the street field after GDC, I had been consulting with Ishikawa-kun (Note 1) of #FR2 for a long time, because I didn't understand many things. He gave me ideas and advice, and was my teacher. So when I opened a new store, I had decided that I wanted to open it with "#FR2" for the first opening. (Note 1: Ryo Ishikawa is the founder of #FR2.)
What do you think about "Casetify"?
Kumagai：My friends in Hong Kong were all using it, and I thought it was nice at first. Also, I often drop my cell phone (laughs). So I always keep it in this case. It is really sturdy and good.
Is there anything you would like to challenge yourself as "WIND AND SEA" in the future?
Kumagai：I would like to approach the Asian market and other countries outside of Japan more. I am actually visiting Asian countries to do research.
How do you feel when you visit?
Kumagai: Vigor, vigor. All of Asia is fine. Tokyo is also healthy.
When approaching Asian markets and other countries outside of Japan, is it your intention that your T-shirts and sweatshirts are more easily conveyed through a single graphic?
Kumagai: It's just like the first handshake. Eventually we may go from here to the closing line, and I don't know what will happen, but for now I think I'll just play with the graphics.
That's something new for you now, isn't it, Mr. Kumagai?
Kumagai: Fresh. Also, it's not exhibition-based, but online-based, so I'm pretty busy. I haven't rested at all (laughs). But that is just right for me right now. 48 is the age I am now, and I am trying to figure out how to spend my next 50s, so the incomprehensible Wall Street-like speed of the past two years is comfortable for me.
It seems that many people in their 50s want to work at their own pace, but the opposite is true!
Kumagai: I thought so, but now that the engine is running, I'm not going to stop now. I have no intention of stopping! It's the same feeling I had when I was in my late 20's. In my late 30's and early 40's, I was slacking off a bit on many things. . So now I work hard every day. I am also producing the restaurant "AVOSETA," which opened recently in Keyakizaka, and doing many other things in new genres.
I think the fashion of the younger kids is great, and everyone is super fun in different outfits.
What do you see in the Japanese fashion scene today?
Kumagai：The media and stylists are no longer the role models for fashion in Japan, and people are now enjoying fashion on their own by looking at SNS and getting information on their own. I think young people's fashion is great, and it's fun to see all the different outfits. It is natural that the kids who come to Tokyo Collection like fashion and are fashion-conscious, but the young people I meet in my daily life are also very fashionable, which makes me very happy.
Do you get inspiration from the young people you meet on a daily basis?
Kumagai: I'm already getting a lot of interest. These kids are saying, "WIND AND SEA is cool! I'll wear it!" I'm super happy when they say, "You're so cool! and I give them the clothes (laughs).
Then, would you be happier if young people in town were wearing WIND AND SEA rather than if you were a fashion expert?
Kumagai: It is better to get sympathy from these children.
Are there any young people you are particularly interested in?
Kumagai: There are many. I dare not mention individual names, but I always check them out, and I think it would be interesting to collaborate with them, incorporating their sensibilities. . If I were to open a gallery, I would like to pick out these girls and do a variety of things with them, so I would like to have a gallery as well. In that sense, this year marks 24 years since I started working as a stylist, and this is probably the most enjoyable time for me.
. Finally, here is a report from the reception held on the day of the opening. Please enjoy it along with SNAP of the visitors!
Photo_Kazunobu Yamada
Text_Maruro Yamashita
Edit_Jun Nakada
WIND AND SEA NAKAMEGURO
Address: Sakamoto Bldg. 1F, 1-6-4 Ohashi, Meguro-ku, Tokyo
Phone: 03-5708-5757
Hours: 12:00 - 20:00 (scheduled to be closed every Wednesday and Thursday)
http://windandsea-wear.com
