Series 【 Parisian 6 years of exploring stores.] Vol.2_THE COOLEST MAN YOU KNOW

In the Corona disaster, going abroad has become a distant thing in itself. However, when you can't go abroad, it is human nature to want to go even more. Don't you all want to travel abroad now? So, until that day arrives, I think it is the role of the media to provide you with a variety of information about the other side of the ocean. So, here is the second installment of the Series on Shohei Seki, who is active in Paris, which started last month.

Photo&Text_Jumpei Seki

Shohei Seki
FASHION IMPROVER
Born in Tokyo in 1979. Based in Paris, he works as a Fashion Improver to enhance the value of various companies in Japan and abroad. His work ranges from directing stores and brands to managing joint exhibitions and other events. In October 2019, he will open his own select store "PARKS Paris" in the 16th arrondissement, one of the most exclusive areas in Paris.
Instagram:sekijumpei

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Vol.2_THE COOLEST MAN YOU KNOW

My name is Seki of Fashion Improver, and I am in my mid-30's. It has been almost 6 years since I suddenly moved to France. I'm a middle-aged man who loves fashion. In this project, I would like to introduce some of the wonderful stores that this middle-aged fashion lover has encountered in Paris, along with the people who are involved with them. I hope to share with you the charm of Paris as I, Seki, a HOUYHNHNM's reader like you, have seen it.

Now, this is the second time for us to introduce you to a rare (?) shop in Paris. It is a select store, "THE COOLEST MAN YOU KNOW".

Japan has many select stores throughout the country, but in Paris, the capital of fashion, there are very few so-called select stores. Among them, this store has a bar-bar attached to it, and it is a salon where well-dressed men gather every morning.

I would like to ask Franck, the owner and director, many questions about how he created this place and what attracted him to it.

Franck Gauthé
After studying trade in college, he gained experience at " A.P.C. " and " Merci " and opened a concept store with a bar-bar in 2015; in 2019, after building a second store in his current location, he parted ways with his co-owner and changed his name to " The Coulest Man You Know. In addition to selections, the company has gained a large following for its original labels, which are created by visiting factories around the world.

Salieu, Franck!

It's my pleasure!

. well, let's start with the first restaurant you opened. . It was 6 years ago when I started the store named "VBS". At that time, I had just arrived in Paris and was looking for an apartment in a real estate agency when I got lost and happened to walk in.

Yes, I remember , I remember.

. I had been to Paris several times before that during the fashion week, but I thought it was unusual to find a men's boutique like this. I was also surprised that it was located near the Poissonnière train station, a little north of the center of the city, which is different from the fashion area. . I also thought it was very interesting that there was a bar-bar attached to the shop. Of course, in the U.S., there are "freemen's clubs" (sporting clubs), but in Paris, there are not many men's clubs like this in the U.S. I thought it was interesting.

Yes, it is.

Why did you decide to add a barber store to your store in the first place?

. I wanted to create a cool atmosphere. . I want people to come in and spend a lot of time here. . great music, a comfortable space, a place to get your hair and beard done, and relax. A place for men to get groomed, I guess you could say. . Anyway, the barbershop was absolutely necessary to create my vision of the world.

Where did you work before opening the shop?

I studied a trade in college , but I didn't really like it. I liked design and already had the idea for my current store in my head, so I worked at A.P.C. and Merci to learn the basics of the store, then opened my first store, called VBS, in 2015.

-Franck's InstagramI was wondering if you had done that kind of work, because I see a lot of interior design photos in the

I never studied interior or architectural design , but I just love it. I use my Instagram posts like a mood board and post pictures I like. . I designed the interior of both my first store and this one myself. Design is my passion . I even like it more than clothes.

. I see. This location was the second "VBS" store to open, wasn't it? When was that?

September 2019. I left the co-owners pretty soon after that, and I took over the place under a different name in March of 2020.

So you changed the name of the restaurant to "THE COOLEST MAN YOU KNOW". Can you tell me the meaning of this name?

I came up with this sentence.

"He speaks nothing . His clothes whisper stories , his accessories tell stories. His shoes represent memories of the places he has been ."

In other words, a good-looking man does not need to say much to exude his charm. The concept of "The Coolest Man You Know" had been in the works since the previous name of the restaurant. So we decided to use it as the name of the restaurant.

This store sells clothes, of course, but the clothes themselves are not the most important thing. Rather, the most important thing is to have one's own style. Of course, it is important to have high quality clothes, but it is not good to be too tied down by one's knowledge. I don't want to impose my style on anyone. . I think this is the most important thing.

Is there anything you've changed besides the name of the restaurant?

. The concept is still the same, but we have changed the business model. . To be more specific, the way we select brands. We have reduced the number of brands we used to carry to less than half. Of course, we have worked with great brands in the past, and we understand that they have been supported by many people, and that's why we are where we are today.

So you are trying to create a store that is more in line with the concept?

Exactly . At some point, I started to feel that all stores were making the same selections. I realized that the quality of the products was more important than which brands they carried. I had seen a lot of good clothes before, and I wanted to do this myself, so I visited the factory and started making things for "The Courageous Man You Know.

What was the first item you made?

Knitwear. I have always loved knitwear , so I wanted to start there. I started going to the factory in 2019, and the products didn't arrive until 2020. . and then we're expanding our lineup to include shirts, leather shoes, socks, and other items.

Right now I'm looking to have men's fashion basics in factories in the right country for each item. One of the advantages is that we can keep the prices reasonable. . I think it was a good choice from a business standpoint because we don't have to have sales. In fact, our sales and profits are higher than they used to be.

We know that the people who come to our store are looking for the quality of the items rather than the brand, so the brand name attached to the item is not important. That is why we have absolute confidence in the quality of Alden, Paraboot, and DE BONNE FACTURE, which we continue to carry today.

What are the most popular items under your original label?

After all, it's knitwear. Depending on the item, they are made in factories in Italy and Germany. We have a large lineup, including Shetland, merino wool, cashmere, etc. .

I'm curious because I don't see many knitwear made in Japan . . It's very nice indeed.

I think they are. As for other items, leather shoes made in Italy are also selling very well. I think the balance between price and quality is the reason why they are selling so well. They are handmade by Italian craftsmen and cost 370 euros.

You used to carry Converse and New Balance, but you don't anymore?

We don't do Converse, but New Balance will only carry Made in UK and Made in USA. Also, Padmore & Barnes shoes will be coming in soon.

Which Japanese brands do you deal with?

Master-piece" has been selling bags since the early days of the previous store, and "Rocky Mountain Featherbed" is also a favorite brand of mine. Rocky Mountain Featherbed is also a popular brand that sells out as soon as it arrives, and I love it. In the future, I would like to carry more Japanese brands that are not as famous, but are still excellent.

. I think Japanese brands would be happy about that. Maybe they want to make originals made in Japan, too.

. yes, I know. If you find a good factory, I'd like to be introduced to it.

Of course. Are there any items you would like to make in the future?

. I'd like to make more suits and coats.

You mean more classic items?

. No, it's not necessarily classic. . I want to make timeless items by tailoring good materials. . I want more people to know the joy of dressing, not just a select few.

I mean it's not a genre. I like that it's for everyone. I sympathize .

Cool is never about the clothes, but about the person themselves. I think it is important to wear high quality clothes in order to stay natural.

. Yes, that's right. What other items do you make?

. and will also make French t-shirts and sweatshirts.

. T-shirts made in France are becoming rare now, aren't they? What kind of customers do you have in your store?

Before Corona, we had a lot of tourists, but our main customers are people in their 30s to 60s who come to Barber and shop there because they trust our sense of style.

. Even when I'm interviewing you like this, there are so many people coming and going in the morning. I guess some of them are customers of the barbershop. I really like this atmosphere.

. yes, I want it to be a place where everyone feels comfortable. So I don't consider this a store. It's more of a salon for men. For example, even if you don't buy anything now, I am confident that I have a great selection of clothes that you will want to buy later.

Do you have many Japanese customers?

. We have a lot of good looking Japanese people coming to our office. . I think one of the reasons for this is the presence of Mr. Nakazawa (Barber).

How did you meet Mr. Nakazawa?

. he came to visit me right after the old store opened. We talked a lot, and we hit it off, and we ended up working together. He is perfect. We have different backgrounds and identities, so he has taught me a lot about Japan, and I have taught him a lot about France.

. By merging different styles, the restaurant becomes more attractive, doesn't it?

Like Mr. Nakazawa, the most important thing in a store is the people. No matter how beautiful the interior is and how many great clothes are lined up, it is the people there who create the atmosphere of the store.

I can relate to that, since that's what I've valued the most since I've been working in Japan. By the way, what is your impression of Japan?

I haven't been there yet, so going there someday is my biggest dream. . The first thing I think about Japan is the craftsmanship. I can feel the passion of the makers in everything, and I feel that it is completed with a high level of quality. I think Japanese products are the best I have ever seen. If I ever go to Japan, I would like to experience many things.

What do you want to do with the store in the future?

I think that Paris is the only place for us, but if we were to open a restaurant in another country, it would have to be in Japan. I believe that people will understand our concept the best. We get offers from European stores to distribute our originals, but we don't intend to do so, we want to convey our worldview through our directly managed stores. However, if a Japanese store offered to wholesale our products, I might accept.

I see. You don't want to open many stores, do you?

. yeah. But I'm hoping to build a café here at the store. . actually, there's a property available on the same property that faces the street, so I'm negotiating with them.

. Is there anything Franck personally would like to do in the future?

. would love to do more interior design. . I'd like to be able to design not only for my own restaurant, but for other companies' restaurants and stores as well.

I see you like interior design after all . . Last but not least, what is the biggest change after Corona? What is the biggest change after Corona?

Even before Corona, we wanted to strengthen our web shop, so I guess we have accelerated the pace of our efforts. Of course, the most important thing for us is still this place, but it is very exciting to be able to make "The Coulest Man You Know" known to people all over the world through the web store.

What about your daily life? What has changed?

I guess the fact that I go out less, so I have more time to spend with my family, my wife and children, and I think that's more important to me.

. I might have that too. . in that sense, it's one of the good things that have come out of this situation.

Yeah, I think so , I think so.

Well, I can't wait to be able to apero though! Thanks for today!

Thank you , too!

~ After completing the interview...

Cool is not the clothes, but you!

I strongly agree that the most important thing for Franck is not the clothes themselves, but what kind of style they express. I think this is also reflected in the name of the store. What also impressed me was the fact that Franck went to great lengths to differentiate itself from other stores, even reducing the number of brands that had been selling well in the past in order to seek uniqueness.

As a store owner, it is of course important to sell well, but I sometimes feel that the lineup of brands has become homogenized no matter where I look in the world's select stores. Understanding this, Franck has courageously taken a big step forward, and I look forward to watching its future.

Now, in the next issue, we will introduce you to a store specializing in "running", which is becoming increasingly competitive in Paris post-Corona. Enjoy!