What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.20 The more you dig, the more you discover: American-made spiwacks. | news

What is the New Vintage anyway?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

The 20th issue is the last of the three stores that have been newly replaced. Jun Fujii and Ken Doi of PROPS STORE ANNEX.

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Jun Fujii & Ken Doi / Director, PROPS STORE ANNEX
Vol.20_Spewak's Half-Zip Jacket, N-3B & Fireman's Coat

-What do the two of you think of the New Vintage?

Fujii：When I first started this store, I was surprised to see the prices of regular used clothing such as CHAMPION's "reverse weave," which we used to buy as students, soar to unbelievable heights. I was surprised at the incredibly high prices of regular used clothes such as "reverse weave".

Doi：From our point of view, it has always been a common practice to "hook up with things that people have not seen and have not properly appreciated their value" regardless of whether they are used or new clothes. I think it is a little too exaggerated to call it "new vintage," but I think it is interesting and important to categorize and propose it in such an easy-to-understand way.

-What items do you think could be considered new vintage?

Doi: If I had to sum it up in one word, it would be "standard. Whether it is the design or the silhouette, it is something that anyone can wear and look good in. And, like a new item, it can be changed in different colors and sizes. I think these are important.

-I see. On top of that, the two of you are going to introduce us to SPIEWAK, which is made in the United States.

Fujii：Since its establishment in 1904, the company has produced a large number of military and workwear products, and has a track record of delivering products to the U.S. military since World War I. It is known as an outerwear brand born in New York along with Schott. Many people in the generation of Alaska may have an image of the brand sold at American casual goods mass merchandisers.

Doi: Many people of our generation learned about Nakata Shoten from the advertisements in fashion magazines such as "Boon". If you know the name "Golden Fleece Spiewak," it may be more familiar to those who knew the brand back then.

Do you dare to say "made in the U.S.A." nowadays?

Fujii: Currently, the uniforms are being switched to those made in China and other countries, but in fact they are still being made in the U.S., as are uniforms for the police, post offices, and other government agencies.

Doi: That one is not for the fashion crowd, but for the geeks, so to speak. This time, we would like to introduce some of the American-made "Spiwak" items that can be found in second-hand clothing stores that we think are interesting.

-As mentioned earlier in this Series, "STUSSY" and "SUPREME" have also made special orders and used the body of the product, right?

Fujii: Perhaps they got a taste of it, and gradually began to steer the direction toward fashion (laughs). This is a collaboration with A.P.C. The fabric is Titan cloth, which is also used in the company's flagship model, the Titan cloth jacket.

Doi: This fabric is woven with a unique special fiber that is heat-resistant and abrasion-resistant, and its surface is waterproofed to give it a unique luster. The surface is waterproofed, giving it a unique luster...but the fabric is too hard at first, so I gave up on it early on (laughs).

Spiwak for A.P.C. half-zip jacket ¥22,000(Props Store Annex)

-Is this based on military wear?

Fujii: I think the design itself is an adaptation of a police uniform. The same design exists inline as well. The fact that you can wear items worn by police officers and firefighters that you see on the street like this is also a point of interest for those who like to wear them.

-What would you target as a model?

Doi: The "N-3B" is the one that readers can follow and enjoy, but it is not popular at all, so it is a good target. The mod parka has a similar shape, but this one is not highly regarded at all at the moment, so I recommend it because you won't wear the same one as everyone else.

-What makes Spiewak different?

Doi: In the N-3Bs of other brands and military uniforms, the shoulder line is raised because the seam is right above the raglan sleeves, but we solved this problem by shifting the shoulder line slightly and bringing it forward. So, even if you go up a size, the shoulders fall nicely and the silhouette is overwhelmingly good!

Fujii: And above all, the fabric is light and comfortable to wear!　Anyway, the spoonful of arrangement is exquisite.

Doi: Yes, they are stylish. For example, this one is made of wool, which gives it a more traditional and elegant look. The leather reinforcements on the pockets are in keeping with the originals, and I think they know what they're doing. This one is made of orange nylon fabric and is a flip of the front and back of the "MA-1. And this is the "N-2B" version, a shorter version of the "N-3B. This makes it very easy to wear, and many derivative models were also made in denim and duck.

N-3B ¥22,000 in Spiwak(Props Store Annex)

N-2B ¥14,080 (TAX IN) in Spiwak(Props Store Annex)

Doi: Here is another one. It does not have the Spiwak name on it, but it is a fireman's coat from the brand "2600," which was produced by Paul Mittelman, who was a designer for "Stussy" from the late 1980s to the 2000s. I thought it looked suspicious, so I contacted him directly on Instagram, and he told me that it was produced by "Spiwak" as I thought.

2600 fireman's coat ¥22,000(Props Store Annex)

I have the impression that Spiewak is very flexible in responding to special orders.

Doi: That's right. Perhaps, but with the scale of street brands at the time, there were not many manufacturers that could handle special orders. In such a situation, "Spiwak" was willing to make a special order just to rearrange an existing design. I guess that's about it.

-It's interesting to look at it with that historical background in mind. There are a lot of variations, and it is worth digging into.

Doi: Compared to ALPHA INDUSTRIES and AVIREX, which make similar items, it is harder to find, but the more you dig into the materials, length, and details, the more you discover new things. The more you dig, the more you discover new things, such as materials and lengths and details, and I'm sure your impression of "SPIWACK" will change.

Jun Fujii & Ken Doi / Director, PROPS STORE ANNEX
The popular import store "PROPS STORE" from Harajuku captivates everyone from the generation that hits the streets directly to city boys, and its sister store "PROPS STORE ANNEX" is a used select store where you can find good regular used clothing. Both are directed by a Hiroshima native. Both are directed by two Hiroshima natives.
Instagram:@propsstore_annex
Official site:propsstoreannex.shop-pro.com