【FOCUS IT.] For the first time, N. Hollywood and Graphpaper have teamed up to help JB Voice, a leading company in the central region, get off to a new start!

Daisuke Ohana of N. Hollywood and Takayuki Minami of Graphpaper. Many of you may be surprised to see their names in this list.

In our long history in the industry, we have known of each other's existence, but this is the first time we have worked together to create something like this. We asked them about the background of this special collaboration.

As the conversation progressed, the topic went slightly off-topic, and we even got into such topics as collaboration and monozukuri (the art of making things). I would like you to read about this digression.

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A masterpiece that is a perfect blend of the best of both worlds.

I was surprised at the unexpected combination this time.

Ohana: But we have been doing this for some time as a business transaction.

Minami: Yes, that's right. But this is your first collaboration as a brand.

Ohana: So far, we have met at some bar or other.

Minami: Yes. So recently. I have been talking with them and going to their exhibitions. By the way, the first time I had the opportunity to work with you was when you started the "Graphpaper" store, and I went to you with a request to handle this particular item.

I see. This may be an unexpected connection for those who are watching. However, this project is a project that is being undertaken by "K.K.", a company that operates multiple stores in Aichi and Gifu prefectures.JB VoiceI understand that it started through a relationship with Mr. Kentaro Higuchi, the head of a company called

Ohana: Yes. Ten years ago, I designed everything from the name to the interior and exterior of a store called "JACK IN THE BOX" in Nagoya. We also created a ceiling space inside the store, which became the Nagoya store of "N. Hollywood".

Minami: We also have a deep relationship with Fresh Service, as we have been franchisees there.

So this time, you started to produce items for the "JACK IN THE RED" project, which started when Higuchi-san celebrated his 60th birthday.

Minami: Yes. I rarely hear from him, but when I heard from Mr. Ohana, I knew immediately that it was that case. I knew it was about that case (laughs).

OBANA: (laughs). I had dinner with Higuchi-san a long time ago and he asked me, "Are you friends with Minami-kun? I was asked something like, "Are you friends with Minami-kun? I asked him what he would think if we were to start manufacturing together, and he said he would be interested. He said he was interested, so I contacted Minami.

What was the communication like between the two items?

Ohana: I came up with the general framework of the concept, but Minami came up with the items. Actually, the selection of items is the most difficult part. I am good at organizing the infrastructure after that.

What do you mean by "infrastructure"?

Obana: It is hard to establish a reason and meaning by simply making something you like. A cause is necessary for everything.
I think it is the key. So this time, we have selected some of the best products from over the years that stand out from each other's identities.
We then created a crossover of fabrics and details with the idea of back to back.

Minami: I have known "N. Hollywood" since they had a store on Cat Street, so I remembered that they used to make a large denim item with a zipper at that time. So I requested it.

Obana: "Twisted Denim" has been reissued several times and is a very popular model. However, I thought it would be different in a group like this.

It is one of the items representing the early days of the brand, isn't it? The reference says that it is "a symbolic item of the 'Reclamation' collection presented in the 2002 S/S N.HOOLYWOOD collection. However, even before that, we had been remaking and updating old clothes, and it seems that the germ of this style had already begun.

Ohana: Yes, we opened the store on December 1, 2000, and I think we started doing something like that around that time.

Minami: Recently, I have been buying very large size denim, about 40 inches, from Levi's, and I wanted to do large denim this time, but I thought that alone would not resonate with the customers of N. Hollywood, but I thought this idea might work.

Ohana: I see. When we were doing remakes at the time, they had to be 46 inches or larger, or they were not viable. We made the waist 29 inches. At that time, you could buy denim that big at a much lower price than now, but things have changed now, haven't they?

RECLAMATION JEANS
¥31,900 Size：36 / 38 / 40

A masterpiece that can be said to be one of the symbolic items of the "RECLAMATION/Rebirth" collection released in 2002S/S N.HOOLYWOOD is reprinted down to the smallest detail. This masterpiece, known as "Twisted Denim," was created by remaking old clothes.

The button fly, originally placed at the front, is placed on the side and the zipper is placed on the opposite side to fit around the waist, as if the big size denim is wrapped around the body.

The broken stitching on the back pockets expresses worn vintage denim. The colors of the stitching, buttons, rivets, and other accessories were selected by Graphpaper.

¥37,400 (Wash)

Minami: At first, I wondered if a remake was the way to go, but then I thought that if that was all I had to do, I could just use "N. Hollywood. If that were the case, we would have just used new fabric (Note: KD-8, the first genuine Japanese denim fabric developed by Kurabo in 1973, was used. The uneven yarn, No. 7 in the warp and No. 6 in the weft, is slightly more uneven than straight yarn, and is characterized by its ability to produce clean dark colors and beautiful warp fading as it ages.

Ohana: Yes, that's right. And then we sewed it at our place. By the way, the other MA-1 has our details, but it was made using Minami's factory, fabric, and pattern.

Minami: As a result, it looks like "Graphpaper. It's big. The MA-1 and denim give it a "Shibu-Kazi" look, which is a good thing.

Reversible Flight Jacket
¥63,800 Size：M / L

Based on the GROUND CREW model "MIL-J-8279G", the final type of MA-1 type flight jacket, which was worn when performing ground work. The main feature is that the lining is not in the rescue color.

The mill specs that identify it as a "JB Voice" exclusive are accented.

It has a voluminous silhouette while retaining iconic details such as the quilted lining in the same color as the outer fabric, the IDEAL zipper, and the cigarette with pen point. The reversible design is a gimmick not found in the original.

At first glance, I felt that the two items were a right collaboration, as their tastes were well mixed together.

Ohana: Yes, that's right. It would be difficult if one of us was inexperienced in this kind of thing, but since we both had done a lot of work and the production team was familiar with each other, it went smoothly. So we didn't have to go over drinks and talk about "this" and "that".

Minami: Well, there's also the Corona disaster. Otherwise, I might have gone out for a drink at least once for something (laughs).

Ohana: Indeed. If you go to the trouble of drinking, you will want to drink, right? But I haven't had that feeling for the past two years.

Minami: No, I don't.

But even within the Corona Disaster, both brands have been involved in so-called collaborations.

Ohana: Hmmm, I don't know. In the first place, in my case, even before I became the Corona Disaster, it was more of a collaboration of object x object rather than person x person.

I see.

Obana: In the old days, there were frequent collaborations in the form of people x people in Urahara, but I have not been doing that for quite some time now.

I have never thought of collaboration in terms of object x object or person x person, but perhaps the former is more common.

Minami: Well, if you make it with someone you are close to, it can't be like masterbation.

Ohana: Yes, that's right. That is why I think Urahara was amazing. We were able to create graphics from intangible aspects, so in a sense, it was artistic. I think people who can create something new with other people are very creative. I have grown up with things, so I can't have a conversation unless it is through things.

That's exactly how you did it this time.

Obana: I am not very good at creating something sensitively. In that sense, it is difficult to ask artists to do something. I get in trouble when they come up with something different from what I expected.

Minami: I am the type of person who says things outspokenly even in such situations. Of course, I do so with respect for the artist. However, it is scary to have someone create something from scratch, isn't it?

Ohana: Yes. That is why it is quite difficult to get them to draw. However, I throw them to foreign artists with a bang.

Minami: But we don't make fantasy clothes, so we don't really do that.

Ohana: You don't work as a designer, do you, Minami? It's more like direction. I originally came from a vintage clothing store.

There has always been a trend in the way clothes are made that you have to draw a design, hasn't there? This may not be the case these days, though, as there are many different ways to make clothes.

Ohana: Well, yes, there are. For example, Don Konishi's paintings are very good. They are abstract and cool. In that sense, the pattern maker is the designer.

Minami: Yes, that's generally true.

Obana: Karl Lagerfeld's paintings are also very abstract, but the staff is next to him and gives them shape.

I think it's because of the modelist, isn't it?

Minami: Yes, we can't make clothes without them.

By the way, do you two do design drawings?

Ohana: I do draw. But I don't draw so much these days. I might explain a concept or something to an assistant, and then show them clipped material.

Minami: I draw a lot. I am the kind of person who wanted to be a painter to begin with.

OBANA: Oh, I see!

Minami: I have always loved to draw, but people who enter art school are amazing. When I saw that, I immediately thought it was no good. However, I still draw everything from clothing designs to interior decorations. Now I draw using an iPad. At first I was a little reluctant, but once I got used to it, it was very easy.

Obana: I'm not very good with the iPad. It's important to draw with the pressure of a pen, so I have to use it. My favorite pen is discontinued, so I have to buy several.

Nowadays, manga and other forms of media are mostly digital, aren't they?

Minami: It looks like they're getting rid of screen tones, too. But it's amazing how the cartoonist's subtle touch is expressed on the screen.

Minami: Overseas designers don't seem to touch the fabric. They just look at it. I'm the type of person who is always curious about how things are made.

Oh, I see. I don't have to check the composition of the fabric, but I do purchase large-size fabrics and look at the drape and vertical wrinkles to see what it is suitable for. Well, since I have a team, I guess it's just a matter of likes and dislikes at first.

I think it means that the division of labor is progressing.

Minami: Yes, yes, there is a great division of labor overseas. It is the same with furniture and so on.

In Japan, there is a mood that doing things alone is precious, isn't there?

Minami: There is.

Ohana: But isn't that why people pay more attention to people who can do things on their own? Someone who does clothes, interior design, and music is more highly regarded as a multi-talented person. However, there are young people these days who can only do this.

Lastly, please tell us about this logo created by Mr. Obana. 087 (Obana) and 373 (Minami).

Minami: I'm the type of person who has bad intuition, so I had no idea at first (laughs).

Obana: I wondered what we had in common through "JACK IN THE BOX" and Mr. Higuchi, and I thought that "7" would be a good fit, so I made this. I checked out all the numbers of certain brands and made all of them my own.

I really like the 0, 3, and 8 forms. I like the roundness of it.

Ohana: Thank you very much. If you don't make these things original, you will get caught up in copyrights and so on. I also put a copyright "© 2021 087373" on it.

Minami: It is also amazing that this is not on the clothes.

OBANA: However, I made these stamps.

Minami: Oh! I mean, you were listening to it. I remember now.

Obana: Yes, I thought it would be interesting to stamp this on site on the day of the event.

On Saturday, October 16, the first day of sales, you two will be at "JACK in the BOX".

Ohana: Yes. It's better than just serving customers; I can put a stamp on an MA-1, or a T-shirt, or whatever.

Minami: I am afraid of failure (laughs).

Ohana: Don't worry. You'll be happy if I fail (laughs).

Photo_Masayuki Nakaya