What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
We've just entered our 7th Series, and we're back with a new shop. In this 52nd issue, we welcome back Hajime Sakamoto of the "instant bootleg store" to the series!
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
Vol.52_Uniform wear of outdoor brand body with embroidery of entrepreneurial things
-It's your first comeback since Season 3. Welcome back!
When I joined this Series again, I rethought what "New Vintage" is. As the next redefinition of "vintage," I will be proposing items that have been forgotten because they do not fit the current trends, and items that would surely be buried if left unchecked. In my opinion, a vintage clothing store is the ultimate select store. The items are one-of-a-kind, and when a minority sympathizes with the ego-filled "this is bad," "this is rare," or "wear it like this," it spreads as a common language and awareness. It is such an analog and warm culture. So, I would like to share my own subjective view of "things that I myself naturally fall in love with, search for, and buy" over the course of two issues of the magazine.
-This is very promising. So, what are the new vintage items you will be introducing?
First of all, here it is. This is an L.L.Bean jacket, commonly called a coverall or field coat. To be frank, the type of item is not important, but what I want you to pay attention to is the embroidery on the chest. It is the logo of BGE, a gas and electric supply company in Baltimore, Philadelphia. I think that the root of the design evolution that has spread to such a wide variety of items can be found in the logos of American companies. Everyone feels like they have seen them before and accept them easily, which I think is a subconscious feeling of "America = basic. In other words, I don't know what it is, but it looks good.
Elle Bean jacket ¥19,800(Instant Bootleg Store)
-It is true. To begin with, the current vintage clothing culture is based on American casual wear.
Work brands such as "DICKIES" and "RED KAP," which are staples of American casual wear, have naturally been loved as uniform wear, but in the 1990s and 2000s, there was a lot of uniform wear that used outdoor brand wear for the body. In the 1990s and 2000s, there were many uniform wears that used outdoor brand wears as the body. Moreover, in many cases, items with high functionality that was technically impossible before the 1980s are used, giving them a very fresh look.
-That kind of +/- detail is very exciting, isn't it? And next?
The base is a Patagonia down sweater made for the famous American beer Samuel Adams Boston Lager. The brewery strictly controls the temperature, so it is cold even indoors. It is fun to imagine that they might have used down sweaters, and I also like the rough embroidery on nylon items (laugh). As I mentioned earlier, only newer products like this are available. This one was made in 2015. That's why I think it could be a new vintage for a new generation.
Patagonia down sweater ¥27,500(Instant Bootleg Store)
-What other items do you have?
There is a wide variety of items to choose from. One of the easiest to get to grips with is beer. This is a Coors jacket with a recent Cabela's body. It is a shell jacket with a watertight zipper, and I wonder if it was worn at outdoor events. Also, for beer, there is "Shiner," which was born in Texas. The body is a fleece vest by Eddie Bauer. Fleece is often used as a material for the body, and you can find many different kinds.
Cabelas shell jacket ¥14,300(Instant Bootleg Store)
Eddie Bauer fleece vest ¥12,100(Instant Bootleg Store)
Looking at the items introduced here, we are reminded that outdoor brands are more common in the U.S. than in Japan, and that the outdoors is what America is all about. Incidentally, there are countless clothing items with embroidered and badged logos, not only corporate items but also group items. This one has a collegiate context ("Sigma Nu" is a collegiate fraternity established at Virginia Military Institute).
Patagonia fleece vest ¥18,700(Instant Bootleg Store)
-The more you dig, the more new discoveries you will make.
You basically can't find an item with the same body and the same embroidery. You can feel the romanticism of such vintage clothing, and the point is that it is not that expensive yet. As the value of vintage clothing grows, we may be forced to subdivide the items into smaller categories, such as "it's hard to find uniforms using such high-end models," but the "groove" is more important.
-When talking about the new vintage, one of the criteria is "groove," right?
I personally think that the "groove" here can also be translated as "color. For example, a store may collect only beer, or have a lot of Patagonia embroidered items, etc. Each store has its own color. It is interesting only if each store has its own color. I think that in the vintage clothing industry from now on, each store should be aware of this and express it. I feel strongly that "how we perceive vintage clothing culture itself," rather than whether it is old or new, is a very important and enjoyable aspect of the industry. I urge everyone reading this to not just chase after "what everyone else wants" with your ego fully open, but to look for "things that have value only to you. I am sure you will enjoy it.
Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
He worked in the vintage clothing industry for over 8 years at "BerBerJin" in Harajuku, Tokyo, where he also gained experience in buying. After that, he joined the select store "FAN". Since then, he has been involved in various projects. The secondhand clothing shop where Hajime Sakamoto sells what he thinks are good items with the theme of "a wonderful way to spend your money" isinstantbootlegstore."The first is.
Instagram:@hajime0722
