What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
This Series has found itself in its seventh season. . Shops have been replaced and restarted. The 53rd issue is the second round of Mr. Genta Sakai of DAMAGEDONE 2nd in Harajuku, Tokyo .
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Genta Sakai / DAMAGEDONE 2nd Buyer
Vol.53_Adidas and Puma Military Training Shoes (90's-00's)
-What kind of new vintage items will you be introducing this time?
The so-called "German Trainer" is a military training shoe of the German Army. The most well-known model is the indoor model, which was developed in the 1970s for training exercises by the West German Army and was officially adopted until 1994. The white leather and suede upper and gum sole are distinctive, and I think this is what you are imagining.
-Maison brands such as Maison Margiela, shoe brands such as REPRODUCTION OF FOUND, and even famous select stores have released many shoes that sample the same model. Many famous select shops have also released shoes sampling the same model.
I guess it's not the first time. It seems that recently, the company has been releasing these shoes from "adidas" and "PUMA," which had been contracted to produce them, so it would be more correct to say that this is not a new phenomenon and that they have been attracting attention for a long time. The model introduced here is one that was adopted later, from the 1990s to the 2000s. The all-black color and the exquisite "not too high-tech, but not too low-tech running type" are very appealing, aren't they? It's a bit different from the "dad shoes" that have now become commonplace.
Adidas Military Training Shoes ¥13,200 (Damaged Dawn 2nd)
If I had to use a precise word, I would say "sporty.
. something like that. In the first place, sports brands do not often become suppliers (manufacturers and suppliers). For example, NIKE and new balance are suppliers to the U.S. military for a while, but I guess it costs a lot of money to have a well-known manufacturer produce them. That is why they are often finished within a very short period of time, and not many of them are sold in the world.
What are the features of the shoes themselves?
. Is it the waterproofed leather and mesh, which provide both high waterproofing and breathability, and the outsole with traction lugs? This makes it possible to maintain excellent shock absorption and stable grip on any surface and in any situation, which is unique to military training shoes. This is also made by Adidas , but this one is a bit newer, probably in the 2000s.
Adidas Military Training Shoes ¥16,500 (Damaged Dawn 2nd)
The basics are the same, but the sole is tougher and looks more like a trail running model. The "gsg" engraved on the upper side seems to indicate that this is a tactical line named after GSG-9, a special anti-terrorism unit of the German Federal Police. High-cut boot-type boots can be found in military stores, but I think this low-cut type is quite rare. I myself saw them for the first time during this purchase.
I see. And this is "Puma"? I didn't know they also had something like this.
This is also the first time I have seen this. This brand selection also has a "German" feel to it, doesn't it? Moreover, to someone who knows the relationship between Puma and Adidas, it's interesting to see the "Wow, you're going there! It's interesting. As for the design, there is a rubber foam stripe on the upper side and the familiar PUMA mark on the inside. To be honest, I wouldn't mind without this mark at all (laugh), but those who like the inertia of the design will love it.
Puma Military Training Shoes ¥13,200（Damaged Dawn 2nd)
I see "AXIS" written on the chutzpah, but is this the name of a model or something else?
I have looked into it , and it seems to be the case. There was originally a base model called "Axis" , which was color-changed to all black. I think it was made in the early 2000's. The roughness of the mesh material is also nostalgic. The roughness of the mesh material gives it a nostalgic feel, and it seems to fit in with the current trend toward tech style in the 2000s.
All-black is a common feature of the three pairs you introduced this time, but is there a standard to distinguish them from just plain black inline models?
Almost 90% of the time, it is a rule of thumb and a dealer's testimony at the time of purchase. Each dealer specializes in a certain genre, so a dealer who specializes in military items is a sure bet. We also buy items from "MAGNUM," which is supplied to the British military. Recently, the price of "M950V2 Military Trainers" by New Balance, which were supplied to the U.S. military, has been rising, but when it comes to Adidas and Puma, the age of these items is almost the same, but they are still minor. So, if you don't know the background of the item, you may think it is just a pair of black, geeky-looking sneakers. But that's the beauty of it. The more you know about them, the more interesting they become. That's a very new vintage thing, isn't it?
. and the color scheme and design seem easy to use.
You can wear them as if you were wearing something like the recent "Salomon" shoes, or you can go for a more modern look without being restricted by style, since they are all in black. You could also wear them with designer brand shoes such as COMME des GARÇONS as a "haphazard" addition to your footwear. Also, nowadays, there are almost no sneakers that can only be imported. They are released in Japan with the same specifications, and the release dates in Japan and overseas are the same, so it is not possible to buy them ahead of the rest of the world. In that sense, I think the rarity of "only being available overseas and almost exclusively in used condition" will appeal to the import generation of people in their 40s and older.
Genta Sakai / DAMAGEDONE 2nd Buyer
At the age of 20, he joined UTM Ltd. and became a store staff member of the select store "RAWDRIP" operated by the company. Since then, he has steadily built up his career at "RAWDRIP 2nd" and "DAMAGEDONE 2nd," and has 14 years of apparel experience. Currently, he is in charge of buying as well as press work.
Official site:damagedone2nd.stores.com
Instagram:@damagedone2nd
