So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.54 "The joy of wearing what others don't wear" - U.S. handmade knit caps.

What is the New Vintage anyway?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

This Series has now entered its seventh season. So, we are restarting this series with a new store. In this 54th installment, we introduce Taro Kato of "sowhat vintage" in Shimokitazawa.

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Taro Kato / Owner, sowhat vintage
Vol.54_Handmade Knit Caps

-What are the new vintage items you will be introducing this time?

How about handmade knit caps?　　Recently, Ecuadorian knitwear with floral patterns and padwork has been popular, and I feel that there is a trend toward items with a warm, crafty feel, not only in vintage clothing but also in the fashion industry as a whole. This year will be the fourth year since we opened our store, and since I myself am in the mood for this kind of thing, we have been selling these items since the beginning and they have been well received.

Handmade knit caps, ¥5,900 each (all Sewat Vintage)

-How can I tell if something is handmade or not?

This is already obvious at a glance. Whether or not there is a quality label tag that describes the country of manufacture and materials used. Another key point is the yarn used for the body. The most common type of yarn used is a thick acrylic knit yarn for handicrafts. Knit caps made with this yarn are stretchy and fit well, but the texture is a little cheap compared to wool yarn. This feeling is also typical of handmade caps. Another feature of many caps is that they are knitted in low gauge. I don't know because I have no experience in knitting myself, but I think it is because high gauge is technically difficult to knit by hand.

Handmade knit caps, ¥5,900 each (both Sewat Vintage)

-If there is no quality label tag, what is the standard for good or bad?

There is no particular quality. As long as it is hand-knit, it is totally acceptable, no matter how old it is. However, I try to avoid buying items that seem to have been filtered through a fashion filter, such as checkered patterns or stylish color schemes. Rather, I prefer to buy items that have some warmth to them, as if they were knitted by a mother or grandmother for her family.

Handmade knit caps, ¥5,900 each (all Sewat Vintage)

-I see them in recycle stores and flea market apps here in Japan, but what is the difference between them and things bought in the U.S.?

It is as obvious as the tag, but handmade knit caps made in the U.S.... are basically gaudy (laugh). In Japan, they tend to be knitted in browns and tannish colors, but in the U.S., they are often knitted in outlandish color combinations and loud mixed yarns, as if it is an American sensibility. Even if it is a plain monochromatic fabric, the colors are crisp and somehow American. The standard way to wear them there is to wear them with your regular clothes plus a deep hat to protect you from the cold.

Handmade knit caps, ¥5,900 each (all Sewat Vintage)

Handmade knit caps, ¥5,900 each (all Sewat Vintage)

-I'd like to know the shape of the design, or rather, the design of the shape of the product. Is there a popular type in terms of shape or design?

I think it's something with a design that says, "This is something that would never be made as a new product. Or an adventurous color scheme. When we purchase items, we look for black, which is a popular standard color, but we are more excited about unusual colors, and our customers are also happy with them. Also, we charge a little more for a product that is easy to wear in terms of silhouette. For example, if the folded part is not too long and the depth of the headband is just right, or if the color scheme is good.

Handmade knit caps, ¥5,900 each (all Sewat Vintage)

-I see. I guess it is natural if the main focus is not on the product itself but on how to enjoy it in one's own way. How are the customers' reactions?

Among the customers who buy from us, there are skaters, city boys, and girls, so it seems to be accepted by a wide range of people. It is also correct to match tastes in the way they are worn, and it is also correct to dare to wear something out of the ordinary. In the past, many people would say they chose vintage clothing because they didn't want to wear the same clothes as others, but these days, the majority of people choose vintage clothing because it is "in fashion. But nowadays, however, the majority of people choose "because it's trendy." So, everyone is looking for the same thing. In this respect, you can find "your own thing," and I think there is a way to enjoy vintage clothing in its original form here.

Handmade knit caps, ¥5,900 each (both Sewat Vintage)

-We hope that not only young people but also adult lovers of vintage clothing will take up the challenge.

It really is. By matching them with true vintage items such as denim and military wear, you can create the right sense of humor. I also like to select items after knowing about the background of the item, but in the case of handmade knit caps like the ones introduced here, it is all about the selector's own sensibility. How the wearer wears it is also up to them, and as a provider, it is fun to imagine "How will this person wear it? and the provider has the pleasure of imagining "how will this person wear it? I highly recommend it!

Taro Kato / owner of sowhat vintage
At the age of 20, he joined "FLAMINGO" and worked at "FLAMINGO Shimokitazawa" for 5 years. Later, he opened his own online vintage store "sowhat vintage", and in 2021, he opened an actual store in Shimokitazawa. The store selects vintage flower bases with vintage headwear and has already become a popular store with many fans.
Official site:sowhatused.thebase.in
Instagram:@sowhatvintage_shimokitazawa