So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.57 Exaggerated design is full of "Why? It's full of them. . It's a hip-hop denim of the 00's, going around in a circle.

What is the New Vintage anyway?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

This is the eighth season of this Series! The 57th installment, the first in the series, features Shun of Shibuya T (SHIBUYA T) in Shibuya, Tokyo.

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Shun / Shibuya T Director
Vol.57_Sean John and Rough Riders' Denim Jackets

-What does the new vintage mean to you, Shun?

. If it were us, it would be something that no one else has yet touched, or something that a highly sensitive brand is using as a sampling source. To put it bluntly, it is also important to be able to buy items that are not yet on the radar of competitors. Dealers have a lot of stock of such items, so it's a win-win situation for both parties to bring them to the market, and if we can find value in them and propose them to the market by presenting the reasons why and what's so cool about them, we can make them a new vintage. I felt that if we can find the value and present it to the market, it can become a new vintage.

-I see. And then, do you have a "viewpoint unique to Shibuya T"?

As for items tied to street culture, we think we are somewhat more persuasive than other stores. They are nostalgic to the older generation and fresh to the younger generation . We do not push items that overlap between these two groups with our cultural knowledge, but rather present them as real clothes. If the customers can sense a little bit of culture in the items, that's all that matters. Recently, more and more young people have an image that vintage clothing is expensive, so we want to be an introductory store for the vintage clothing culture without being overbearing.

-. I think that's a great attitude. So, what are the new vintage items you are going to introduce?

I know I said this is a beginner's guide, but it's a bit like an expert's item. ......00 I brought denim jackets from Sean John and RUFF RYDERS from the 1960s. It seems that they are categorized as "hip-hop denim" in some overseas vintage clothing stores.

From left to right: denim jacket by Rough Riders, ¥11,000; denim jacket by Sean John, ¥11,000(both Shibuya T)

-For those in their 40s and older, this feeling is very nostalgic.

In short, it is what the Brothers used to sell on Takeshita-dori in Harajuku (laughs). (Laughs.) Starting with the original KARL KANI, FUBU, ROCA WEAR, PHAT FARM, and AKADEMIKS are also well-known. In that sense, I guess you could call them "brother denim. I also have a memory of buying a pair of jeans from a senior in my hometown when I was in the first grade of junior high school that I didn't even know were real (laughs).

-The don't-don't generation may be embarrassed to wear it, but it will look very fresh to the younger generation, who can see it without bias.

There was an incident a few years ago when "Balenciaga" sampled "Rough Riders," and there are many highlights, such as the ridiculously large silhouettes and elaborate details. When I talk with my peers, the interesting design is always a topic of conversation. But then, I also mention the low quality, but that's just for fun (chuckles).

-There seems to be a big difference in reaction between generations.

The younger generation sees them simply as "something interesting. Take, for example, this "Rough Riders. The length is extremely long and the silhouette is exaggerated, which may be perceived as a mode-like style. In reality, they are designed to be worn around the waist, so that even if a gun is inserted at the waist, it can be concealed, and the design is in line with the background of "clothes for delinquents.

-so is this big one.

This is a 2XL size, but maybe S or M never existed. . When I was buying, I only found XL or larger (laugh). One of the characteristics of these items is "unnecessary details. Stitches are placed in unintentional places, and sleeves are not cut three-dimensionally even though they are made of panels of fabric. The fabric is so thick that it feels stiff and uncomfortable when worn, and the pockets have no gussets, so you can't fit anything in them at all. The pockets have no gussets, so you can't fit anything in them at all. I was wondering if the hanger loops on the back have other uses. It is also a mystery that the waist has an adjuster for size adjustment, even though it is made in such a ridiculously large size.

Ruff Riders denim jacket ¥11,000(Shibuya T.)

-in a good way, it's very silly.

. it's really interesting to talk about. The other dress is a " Sean John ". . At first glance, it looks normal, but the size is a bit odd after all (laughs). (Laughs.) It has the hammer loop detail found in painted pants, but the location also makes you wonder, "Why? . I'm not sure. . It would be interesting to hang various things with carabiners. . Also, the word "Eternity" on the pith name is also interesting. There was a time when Chinese characters were popular, so I guess it is a nod to that period. I think everything will look fresh not only to the younger generation, but also to authentic vintage clothing lovers.

Denim jacket by Sean John ¥11,000(Shibuya T.)

. - it's worth digging & tweaking (laughs). Do you feel like you can still dig around here?

They don't seem to show up much in thrifts, even in US purchases, and the prices are starting to rise unexpectedly. . On the other hand, in Japan, it is likely to be found inexpensively at recycle stores in the suburbs. In my hometown of Aizu, Fukushima Prefecture, there is a strong culture of low-riders in the west, so it is likely that you can find them there (laughs).

-Do you have any tips on how to dress in a way that doesn't make it look like cosplay from back then?

. Young people are wearing them in style. Some wear them with "Rick Owens," while others wear them with loose-fitting slacks and leather shoes. We also get a good response from those who like domestic brands with a strong visual appeal, such as "doublet. I think it's because they don't know the cultural background of the brand that they are able to enjoy wearing it freely. I hope you will all try out some of them.

Shun / Shibuya T Director
At the age of 21, he joined mellow Inc. and began working at the company's vintage clothing store "Shibuya T". This year marks the ninth year of his career. Currently, he is involved in the operation of the store as its director, and also buys merchandise as a buyer. As the successor to Mr. Ito of "Ito Shoten," who was the previous director at the store, he is struggling every day.
Official website:shibuya-t.shop-pro.jp
Instagram:@shibuya_t_shop