So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.73 Classical, dusty wool wear made by a "110-year-established business in the land of sheep.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

This Series finally enters its 10th season, with all the stores being replaced by new ones!　The 73rd issue features Yusuke Taki of Dracaena. We are looking forward to seeing what new vintage items he will introduce.

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Yusuke Taki / Dracaena PR
Vol.73_Swan Dry half-zip wool shirt

-Let me ask you first. What does New Vintage mean to you?

The premise is that there is a longing for "true vintage" that is now out of reach. So, to put it simply, in addition to high quality materials and workmanship, the brand or item itself must have some kind of backbone. It is the same as the definition of "True Vintage", but when we go back to the basic question, "What is the thing that will last until the future? I believe that these two points are indispensable when we go back to the basic question, "What is a product that will remain in the future? And then, items that are not yet known to the world as "good products". That is what we call "new vintage.

-Dracena" is a used clothing dealer that also sells wholesale to a variety of stores. I thought it would be different to select new vintage from such a point of view, so I asked you to appear here.

As you say, in our case, we also sell wholesale, so we are required to have a wide range of selections rather than specializing in a particular genre. One of the most important things we look for is the condition of the items. We have many customers who are not accustomed to secondhand clothing, and while we of course have a sense of how to appreciate the aging process of denim and other items that can only be enjoyed with secondhand clothing, we are conscious of making suggestions that match each item, such as picking shirts and blazers that are in good condition. We also have the concept of "enjoyable" in the sense of enjoying good quality clothes for a long time. I think this is one of the conditions of new vintage in terms of enjoying good quality for a long time.

I see. So, what is the new vintage item you are going to introduce to us this time, Mr. Taki?


SWANNDRI's half-zip wool shirts are now available. It is a long-established brand established in New Zealand in 1913, and develops a wide variety of wool wear. In the United States, it is similar to "WOOLRICH". When I was in charge of purchasing in Canada for about two years, I occasionally saw and bought a lace-up and long-length parka called a "bush shirt" from this brand. But at the time, I couldn't imagine how to wear it stylishly, so I didn't buy it myself. ...... This item changed my image of "Swan Dry".

Swan Dry Half-Zip Wool Shirt Reference item(Dracena Kichijoji main branch)

The natural and warm texture of the wool material and the classical design are well-balanced.

The material is 100% pure virgin wool, you know. As I mentioned earlier, I have only seen the type of shirts that are lace-up bush shirts, and the block check pattern is the default. This type of half-zip, solid color type is completely new to me. And it's this classic design. It's a fun item to think about how to attack it. I like to wear it like a sweatshirt with a denim shirt underneath and the collar turned up, which is very modern.

-By the way, how do you rate on the used clothing market?

According to our research, select stores in Japan had also placed special orders at one time, but as far as the vintage clothing market is concerned, there are almost no hits on the Internet, and even our e-commerce store, which boasts tens of thousands of items, carries only one piece. To be honest, the company is not well known in some parts of the world. I think that since it is a brand that is worn by ordinary farmer guys in the local market, people are like "wear it out and throw it away" and don't see the value in it yet.

-I wonder what a breast pocket of this size would hold.

I wonder?　I don't think modern smartphones are too big to fit in it, so it would probably only hold cigarettes (soft) and a Zippo lighter, if it could. Such a clumsy feeling is also rugged and good. Also, look at the pocket sleeves. It is made of checkered flannel fabric, but for some reason it is lined (laughs). Perhaps the sluki was torn or something, and the previous owner replaced the fabric.

You asked about the tops earlier, but what about the bottoms in that case?

For pants, I'm going to go for the authentic look with chinos. And I wear "All Star" shoes by Converse. I usually wear old clothes after repairing them, so one of my criteria for "new vintage" is "whether or not I want to wear it even after repairing. The key point is that these items are not only made of solid materials and sewn well, but also made in a simple way, so they are easy to repair. Now that the fashion industry as a whole is talking about the importance of sustainability, I think this is a good time to be aware of such aspects. Also, there is a story that the production in New Zealand was discontinued in 2008 and the production base was moved to Asia, so if you find one, don't forget to check if it is "Made in New Zealand" or not.

Yusuke Taki / Dracaena PR
He is 33 years old. After graduating from university, he worked for a British-born brand for about 5 years before leaving the company. She then joined "Dracaena" and was in charge of purchasing in Canada for about 2 years. Currently, she is involved in store management and event planning, including PR, while actively working in the store.
Official site:e-dracaena.com
Instagram:@dracaena_kichijoji