So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.74 Some say it's not so good... but Rustler says, "On the contrary, that's what's good about it.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

The 10th season started with all new stores since the last issue!　The 74th edition features Mr. Takayasu Shimizu of "mellow" located in Urayasu City, Chiba Prefecture. What kind of new vintage items will he introduce?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Takayasu Shimizu / mellow PR
Vol.74_Rustler Black Jeans

-Let me ask you first. What does New Vintage mean to you?

One key point is simply that they are cheap. Recently, the overall price of vintage clothing has skyrocketed, and it is common to find old Gap items for over 10,000 yen, whereas a decade ago you could have bought them for around 5,000 yen. The good thing about new vintage is that, unlike true vintage, it is easy to wear and enjoy. I think this is the best thing about new vintage. And the same goes for "not well-known yet".

-Whether the price is not out of line with the value of the item as a thing, and whether it is priced in a way that can be judged as legitimate. This is certainly important, although it is becoming more difficult in some areas now that prices are rising for everything.

Also, I am 21 years old, which is much younger than the other readers of this Series, and I think there is a difference in the values underlying the same vintage clothing.

-Please elaborate a bit more on the part about the difference in values between generations.

I like hip-hop, especially rappers from the 90s who did not go to school in real time, and I feel that they are cool in a different way from the way the real-time generation sees it. I feel that sense of coolness in a different way from how the real-time generation perceives it. For example, "If I were to choose a sweatshirt now, RUSSELL ATHLETIC would be cooler than Champion. Especially "reverse weave" sweatshirts from the 90's have added value as a fine vintage item, but I myself don't find them very attractive. On the contrary, I think there are things that I can select because I don't have such a sense.

-I guess I have a bias to go through with what I know.

Of course, the basic premise is that we, as vintage clothing dealers, have knowledge of so-called "true vintage" as well. Personally, I think it is fine if there are stores that deal only with the top of the pyramid, because there are differences in stance, but I think that the items that could be next = new vintage are hidden at the two ends of the bottom of the triangle, so we always focus on that.

I see. It is similar to the fact that it is faster to stand in line at the left or right end of a ski lift than in the middle. So, what are the new vintage items you are going to introduce this time?

This time, we have prepared black jeans from RUSTLER. Some of you may not be familiar with the brand name, but RUSTLER is the brother brand or second line of Wrangler. While the older brother's brand name means "cowboy," this one means "cattle rustler. I think the fact that the brothers have an antagonistic structure is also a clever touch. However, to put it another way, "Wrangler" itself tends to be seen as a little lower in rank compared to "Levi's" and "Lee," which are called the three major denim brands, and its second line is honestly seen as a bit...... It's true that the second line of Levi's is seen as a bit lower-class than Levi's and Lee's. However, in terms of the difference in values I mentioned at the beginning, there is a reversal of thinking: "That's why it's good.

Rustler's black jeans ¥8,800(Mellow)

-I think it's a kind of backwards aesthetic. Is this brand still around and can I buy a new one?

According to the official website of the home country, the product is currently available only at Walmart Inc. and Kmart, both of which are huge supermarket chains. Well, according to the official site, it seems to be available at ordinary retail stores as well.

-I've seen a few thrift stores that carry black jeans recently, but they all have black jeans.

No, it's not like that. Blue jeans are also available. However, due to the difference in the weave, the blue color has a slightly shiny feel to it. The silhouette of the jeans we prepared this time is almost the "505" of Levi's. I used to run track and field when I was in school. I used to run track and field when I was in school, and they fit me just right, even though I have a big ass. They are very useful when I want to wear slim-fit pants.

-How much difference is there between buying a Levi's 505 and buying a Levi's 505 in today's market?

The "505" made in the U.S. costs about ¥13,000, but compared to this, the average price is about ¥8,000 due to the fact that this brand is not well-known yet. The details are as a low-priced brand, with no rivets for reinforcement, no decorative stitching on the pockets, and a top button and zip on the front, which can be called "minimal and simple" (laugh). The name tag seems to vary depending on the age of the item, but when I looked around, I found a mix of different tags, which is a mystery (laugh).

-There is no systematization of information in that area.

Yes, I agree. I don't think there are many people who dig into the details of the differences between the different eras. I have never heard of "Japan's number one rassler maniac" (laughs). (Laughs) Recently, there are a lot of kids my age who wear 70's style like cowboys, so I want them to adopt this style. I think it would also look good with normal outfits, such as a short outerwear over a cotton knit. If it were me, I would wear it with a large sweatshirt. Because it is so simple, you can enjoy it freely, whether you want to go straight or go against the grain. I think this freedom is the charm of "Rustler," which has yet to be dyed in any color.

Takayasu Shimizu / mellow PR/Store Manager/Director
Born in Mito City, Ibaraki Prefecture. During his high school years, he admired Mr. ITO, the director of "Shibuya T" (now "Ito Shoten" Direcu), and while frequenting the store, he became interested in regular vintage clothing, mainly from the 90s. Later, he joined "mellow," the store's operator. Currently, he serves as the store's PR and store manager/director, and also doubles as the promoter of "Shibuya T" from October of this year.
Official site:feeling-mellow.com
Instagram: @mellow_used_clothing