【FOCUS IT.] "SELECT by BAYCREW'S" in Toranomon, a Toranomon-based fashion house known for its impactful "slogan T-shirts," has specially ordered archived items from Katharine Hamnett. We will explore the whole picture through a special conversation between the two.

Message T-shirts" and military-style items are now commonplace in every brand, regardless of trends. KATHARINE HAMNETT is a British brand that combines traditional British style with mode and street culture to create a collection that is widely accepted as fashionable. The brand has started an apparel collection in collaboration with a British company, using Japanese technology to reissue masterpieces mainly from the 1980s and 1990s.

SELECT by BAYCREW'S," a much talked-about select store that opened in Toranomon at the end of February this year, carries a wide range of items from Katharine Hamnett. The shop now offers two types of "slogan T-shirts" and a "Lionel jacket" with a unique dyeing technique, both of which were created with reference to the Katharine Hamnett archives and are highly coveted items by fans of the brand.

How were these items released and what kind of message were they conveying? To find out, we present a special conversation between Lionel Copley, creative director of Katharine Hamnett, and Tadanao Matsuo, conceptor of the men's section of SELECT by BAYCREW'S. The conversation will be held at the "SELECT by BAYCREW'S" in Tokyo.

Photo_Tai Kino
Text_Atsutaro Ito
Edit_Seiya Kato

We are more confident than ever.

-First of all, could you tell us about this place you have gathered here?

Matsuo：This is "SELECT by BAYCREW'S," a new complex store that opened this spring, with a total floor space of approximately 800 tsubo. It is operated as one of the highest level select stores among the nationwide "BAYCREW'S STORE" stores.

Lionel: This is my first visit to this store and I found it to be a really great space. I like the unique and sophisticated displays that are unique to this area.

Tadanao Matsuo
Born in Osaka in 1975, he joined "BAYCREW'S" in 2000 and has been a dedicated "JOURNAL STANDARD" customer ever since. After working as a store staff and a buyer, he is currently a conceptor who decides the overall policy of the brand. He embodies the "JOURNAL STANDARD" worldview of crossover between the mountains and the city in his own lifestyle.
Instagram:@tadanaom

Lionel Copley.
Creative Director of Katharine Hamnett. Mr. Hamnett has worked for Katharine Hamnett in the U.K. for over 40 years since the 1980s, serving as the company's MD general director. Currently, she is the creative director of the collaborative collection with Japan. He knows the history and design concept of the brand as well as the designer himself.

-We heard that "SELECT by BAYCREW'S" carries items from the "Katharine Hamnett" collection.

Matsuo：JOURNAL STANDARD also carries some slogan T-shirts, but only "SELECT by BAYCREW'S" offers them in its collection.

Lionel：For a long time, we have seen the "Slogan T-shirts" as a tool to directly convey Katharine's voice, and we print messages for that time period on them. So, it is an ideal cycle for us to have people get to know Katharine Hamnett through the slogan T-shirts first, and then turn their attention to other items in the collection.

It is true that "Katharine Hamnett" has a strong image of "slogan T-shirts.

Matsuo: I think this item is very familiar to our generation who went through the 90's. At that time, T-shirts with large fonts were the trend. At that time, T-shirts with messages in large fonts were the trend, but I have the impression that "Katharine Hamnett" was exceptional, and many of the messages were very strong. For example, "STOP ACID RAIN" is a theme that is not talked about anymore, but it had a strong impact.

Lionel: It is true that this is a topic that is not talked about much today. But I think (designer) Catherine was ahead of her time in terms of making a statement about environmental issues.

Matsuo: That's right. Nowadays, the keyword "sustainable" seems commonplace, but at that time, even outdoor brands must not have said it.

Lionel: Catherine is definitely a pioneer in the fashion field when it comes to sustainable mindsets, and for her 1991 spring/summer collection, she did a show called "Green Cotton by the Year 2000. " was the theme of the show.

-That's right. Now, please tell us about the message behind this special-order item, the "Slogan T-Shirt.

Lionel: First of all, "EQUAL BUT DIFFERENT" was selected because it is an archival theme that is relevant to our times, and it is based on the issues of race and human rights. I also think that "MAKE TROUBLE QUESTION EVERYTHING" is a message that is appropriate for the current era, and above all, this phrase accurately describes Katherine herself. Catherine is a person who always has her own opinions, and if there is a problem, she makes it a point to take action first. At the same time, she is a very compassionate and lovely person.

Slogan T-shirt ¥19,800

Matsuo: Both messages have quite an impact. Also, the body of the T-shirt itself is rather wide, so I think it will coordinate well with pants that are a little thicker, or even a dare to wear a thinner silhouette.

Lionel: This "Slogan T-Shirt" is a basic item, so it goes well with all styles.

Matsuo: I think Lionel is right, it is a cool and versatile item that can be worn inside a jacket.

-Please explain about this "Lionel Jacket" as well.

Lionel: This jacket has elements of both hunting and fishing. Catherine and I like the silhouette so much that we decided to add a hood.

Matsuo: Until now, it was not possible to attach a hood due to the thickness of the fabric, was it?

Lionel: That's right. So in a sense, the "Lionel Jacket" is a "phantom" version (laughs).

Lionel Jacket ¥97,900

-The unique dyeing reminiscent of a camouflage pattern is also impressive.

Lionel: The fabric used is organic cotton created exclusively for this project using the traditional Japanese technique of shizome. Even though the item has a military taste, it is not too casual and expresses a sophisticated and modern mood.

Matsuo："Katharine Hamnett" has a wonderful classical design that is not influenced by trends, and they cook military items well. I personally like that kind of taste, and the "Lionel Jacket," which we have made a special order for this time, is one of our most confident creations to date.