Gramici and Adsum have collaborated for the first time for the Spring/Summer 2023 season. The collaboration between Stefan Wendler and Pete McNee, who are the driving forces behind the project, shows a deep understanding and respect for each other's brands.
How did they realize their ideas and visions in this collaboration, which continued the theme of "the joy of the outdoors" from the previous issue? We take a closer look behind the scenes through interviews with the two partners.
PROFILE
From Germany to the U.S., he worked as a product director for Carhartt WIP and Stussy. In 2020, he was appointed creative director of "GRAMICHI" in recognition of his skills.
Instagram:@gramicci_jp
PROFILE
In 2015, he and Christian Rice launched "Adsum". The brand creates outdoor wear with a focus on functionality and detail, combining a deep knowledge of sports and the outdoors with their roots in New York City.
Instagram:@adsumnyc
Pete, first of all, tell us about "Adsum".
Pete: To begin with how I started Adsum, I was helping Mark McNairy, who was involved in the design and production of WOOLRICH. I went to his atelier in Manhattan's Garment District to learn about cutting, sewing, and purchasing fabrics and materials, and one day I asked Mark if I could use the equipment, fabrics, and connections he had here to make the items I wanted to make. He said, "New York is a free country, so you can do whatever you want. (Laughs) This was the beginning of Adsum. (Laughs) I exchanged opinions about the brand concept many times with close friends who knew me well. As a result, I decided to make clothes with outdoor wear at the core, which is one of the most important elements for me.
What kind of image do you have of "Gramichi"?
Pete: Gramichi is authentic and has always been a favorite of mine. There is no other brand that comes close to Gramichi when it comes to belted pants. I think it's fair to say that the casual outdoor style that Gramichi embodies is what Adsum should be aiming for.
Stefan, what kind of image do you have of Adsum?
Stefan: This is one of my favorite brands and one I've worn a lot over the past few years. It's timeless, clean, and has a respect for the outdoor style of the East Coast. It's just "easy to wear. They are honest and consistent in their approach. I think that's really great.
What are some of your influences so far?
Pete: The outdoors, trees, family, friends, the city I live and travel in, all sports, and maybe music. I can't really rank them all because they are all so special.
Stefan: I have been lucky enough to have lived and worked in many cities around the world. The people I have met along the way, the magazines I read, skateboarding, and the fun and charm of a big city all come together to make the person I am today.
This is your second collaboration. How did you come to this collaboration in the first place?
Pete: I honestly don't remember exactly how I made first contact with Stefan. Anyway, after a short conversation, we hit it off right away and decided to collaborate. Gramichi and Adsum share the same brand DNA, so we were able to express each other's brand identity without having to think too much about what items to make or how to present them. For our last collaboration, we took the idea of "New York window washers" as a starting point and developed the idea. We wanted to create a product and visual image that would connect climbing and the city. You see, a worker cleaning the windows of a skyscraper is somewhat similar to climbing, isn't it?
Campaign visuals for the first campaign launched in April 2023
Stefan: The idea for the collaboration came to me right away in conversation with Pete. We both had a similar vision for the clothes, so the process was very natural. Pete's team did a great job of bringing our ideas to life.
Q. How did you come to collaborate for the second time?
Pete: I've been wanting to collaborate with GRAMICHI again for the fall/winter season. Last time we collaborated with Gramichi, it was for the spring/summer season. Stefan was interested too. It is a rule at Adsum that we only collaborate with brands that we can work with for a long time, not once and for all. The creative for A/W 2024 was inspired by tough outdoor activities such as hunting and DIY. So-called outdoor workwear.
Stefan: We felt the same way. I think we became good friends during our last collaboration, and we have a deeper understanding of each other's brands. Both Adsum and Gramichi make products that have a strong presence with a timeless quality, without being pretentious. I hope we can continue to work together in the future.
Please tell us about the design process of this collaboration.
Pete: In the course of our research, we found a few "anti-tech" OG styles that we liked, and we used them as inspiration for our work. We worked together to create the collection, giving each other honest feedback on the designs that emerged.
Stefan: Yes, it was a very smooth and natural process. We knew what we wanted to do even before we started discussing the details. The development team did a really good job in bringing our ideas to life.
Please tell us about each item.
Pete & Stefan: This is an OG style canvas work jacket I made to get you through the cold winters. The liner with diamond-shaped quilted pattern used for the lining is removable and can be worn separately. The chest pocket and front have brass YKK zippers. The waist and cuffs are fitted with soft, elastic cuffs that keep cold air, wood chips, and light snow out of the jacket. It comes in three colors: traditional outdoor olive, hunting orange, and pine camo. The original pine camo pattern we created is used on two of the items in this collection to emphasize that this is a collaboration for the outdoors, where you get outside, get your hands dirty, and work.
CANVAS WORK JACKET ¥39,600
Pattern / Green / Orange
With removable liner.
Pete & Stephan: Inspired by British outdoor military wear, the jacket features an oversized fit and slightly dropped shoulders. The large utility pockets are gusseted, so you can fit more stuff in there than it looks. Hands can be inserted from the side, and they also function as handwarmer pockets. The outside fabric is made of high-density Japanese cotton and is water repellent like a ventile. The olive color changes with the light like a sharkskin fabric, giving it a rainbow-like appearance. It goes well with the waffle hoodie, the pocket capacity, and the length, which is neither long nor short, make it the best work jacket in any way.
VENTONE JACKET 50,600 yen
Beige / Olive
Pete: The GADGET PANT by [Gramici] is a pant packed with functional elements that can be used for mountaineering, but our feeling is that the features designed for mountaineering are also perfect for cooking, DIY, home repair work, and hiking, making it the perfect pant for everyday use. The pants are made of a solid, heavy, thick, and durable 100% cotton canvas fabric that can withstand hard use. The fit is a little loose, but not dumpy by any means, maybe a little more relaxed fit than the classic "GRAMICCI PANT".
Stefan: The "GADGET PANT" was created with reference to the "GRAMICHI" archives from the 1990s. We tried to recreate the fit and details of the "GADGET PANT" as faithfully as possible, and the result is a pant that can be used for mountain climbing with gusto. The unique pocket design and webbing details are both functional and useful. They are also very comfortable to wear.
CANVAS GADGET PANT ¥20,900
Pattern / Green / Orange
Pete: It's really hard to explain what the GRAMICCI PANT is, so I'll just tell you what it means to us. While most of us at Adsum don't boulder or do bum splits to get the most out of our inseam gussets, the GRAMICCI PANT is the pinnacle of men's pants with webbing belts for us. The hip, thigh, crotch, and hem openings are perfectly balanced. For this collaboration, we reworked the GRAMICCI PANT using traditional herringbone tweed. Slightly classic, with a twist, don't you think? If you don't already own a GRAMICCI PANT, I definitely recommend getting one. If you already have it, check out this "GRAMICCI PANT". It's limited edition and will sell out quickly (LOL).
Stéphane: The "GRAMICCI PANT" needs no further explanation: this pant, created over 40 years ago, embodies the concept of the brand. They are made for maximum functionality and have been loved by countless culture movers and shakers.
STANDARD GRAMICCI PANT 18,700 yen
Brown / Navy
Pete & Stefan: A classic hockey beanie design, the drawcord at the ear flaps can be tightened to cover the ears, and the acrylic blend yarn will keep you warm. But you probably shouldn't wear this beanie to ice hockey. It's best to wear a helmet in case the puck hits your head, lol.
O.G HOCKEY TOUQUE ¥9,900
