What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.102 It's all about Uraharajuku, but it's a little different. The aesthetics of subtraction seen in Low Rider.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

All the new stores have been replaced, and the series finally enters its 13th season! The 102nd issue is Sin's second visit to "BLANK BLACK MARKET" located in Kamimachi along the Setagaya Line! What new vintage items will he introduce this time?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Sin / Owner, BLANK BLACK MARKET
Vol.102_Low Rider Motorcycle Jackets, Zip Hoodies & Sweat Zip Jackets

-What are some of the new vintage items you would like to introduce to us?

last timeIn the previous issue, we introduced FUNNY FARM, and this time we would like to introduce LOW RIDER, another brand from the same generation.

-In terms of magazines, I have an image of seeing them often in "smart" and "ASAYAN.

Both magazines were often published, so many people from the generation who knew the street in the 1990s and 2000s will know them.

-What kind of brand is it?

To explain this, we need to talk about PERV, a boutique opened in Harajuku, Tokyo in 1994 by DJ Harvey and DJ Marbo, which curated London rave and youth culture, picking up artists such as Malcolm McLaren, Judy Blame, and Hussein Chalayan. The store was noted for its curated world view of London's rave and youth culture, featuring such labels as Malcolm McLaren, JUDY BLAME, and Hussein Chalayan. In 1997, "Low Rider" was launched as an original brand.

-Originally, it was based on raves and other music culture.

Yes, DJ Marbo came to the UK in the 1980s and experienced the Second Summer of Love, which was a movement in the UK at the time, and met and performed with DJ Harvey. He was the first Japanese DJ in the UK. DJ HARVEY is a legendary DJ who focuses on house, Balearic, and disco, and the store is curated by these two world-renowned DJs and sells a large number of records, just like a record store. The store was a pioneering brand that embodied the fusion of fashion and culture.

-In terms of positioning at the time?

Although the brand was roughly categorized as "Urahara-kei," there was no hint of rock or American casual like "GOODENOUGH" or "UNDERCOVER," and the graphics were often quoted from pop art and so on. I felt that the brand had an electric and inorganic image like the shop33 brand, and that it was "Urahara-kei? I felt that the brand was "back-alley".

-What other brands did people who wore "Low Rider" wear with it?

I think of it as a mix of "Silas," also from the U.K., and other clean street brands.

-I understand somewhat. So, what items will you be introducing this time?

Low Rider" had a full lineup of clothing, but we thought it would be easier to recognize the items with graphics, so we prepared mainly outerwear and sweatshirts that are typical of the brand.

Lowrider motorcycle jacket, 16,000 yen(Blank Black Market)

Let's start with a typical one, the motorcycle jacket. The material is cotton and nylon ripstop. The brand's iconic star is embroidered on the left arm, and the front is double-zipped. This type was also available in a variety of materials and details, such as Harris tweed.

-It's very simple.

The trend at the time was to update rugged and heavy motifs such as work, motorcycle, and military clothes by using materials and details to make them "clean," "minimal," and "sporty. This is the same nuance. However, this is made in Japan, so the workmanship is solid.

-Next, sweatshirts. Please tell us about the zip hoodie first.

As for the sweatshirts, the common denominator is that they are made of heavy-weight fabric with thermal lining. The original body is "Camber (CAMBER)'s" "Chill Buster" style. The logo graphic on the front is a flocky print, and the hood has the familiar embroidered star. The ribbing is thick and heavy, giving it the feel of outerwear. This is my guess, but since it is made by a DJ, it is supposed to be worn in a club, and this kind of thick full-zip sweatshirt can be worn either outside or inside.

Low Rider Zip Hoodie 18,000 yen(Blank Black Market)

-Certainly, it is quite heavy ounce. And this sweatshirt zip jacket is also simple.

It is. The logo graphic on the front is flock-printed, and the hood has the familiar embroidered star. The ribbing is thick and crisp except for the fact that it feels like outerwear. I used to wear "Low Rider" as a kind of uniform at a local specialty store where I worked part-time during my high school years, but to be honest, as a punk boy, I was reluctant to wear it because it wasn't good enough for me. But now that I have it in my hands again, I think to myself, "I must have been wearing something good" (laughs).

Low Rider sweat zip jacket, 18,000 yen(Blank Black Market)

-I can see now how good it is (laughs). Was the logo graphic still popular?

There were several types of logo graphics, such as the font used on funk and house record jackets of the time, and they were popular not only on T-shirts and hoodies, but also on a wide variety of other items. Among them, this is the stickiest one. The initials "L" and "R" of "LOW RIDER" are sandwiched by "! The "L" and "R" of the initials "LOW RIDER" are sandwiched between the "!

Low Rider sweat zip jacket, 18,000 yen(Blank Black Market)

-The prints are flocky, aren't they?

The brand here is particular about prints, some of which are rubber ink, but basically flocky. The other piece we prepared this time is a reflector print. The silhouette of Che Guevara, a popular symbol of rebellion and freedom at the time, is designed on the back of these two pieces.

Low Rider sweat zip jacket, 18,000 yen(Blank Black Market)

-I think it's true that the color of the "Funny Farm" is very different from that of the previous "Funny Farm".

It is a subtractive design. Then we added details such as reflectors and other club-use-oriented details, which is like a street brand that can be worn by adults. As I mentioned in the last issue, we are conscious of "leaving room" for the wearers to decide how they see and perceive things, and we propose a remix of contemporary brands and ways of wearing, rather than just tracing the way things were worn in those days. We also have two types of items: items that we want to preserve for future generations as part of the culture, like the Uraharajuku brand, and items that are interesting but have not yet found their value at the current stage. These two types of items are what we consider to be the new vintage, and I think this "Low Rider" is just one of them.

-I was also impressed with the condition of all of them. Is this generally how it is when it comes to the vintage clothing market?

No, it's the opposite. The majority of the ribs are stretched, burned, or ripped because they feel like club wear. Moreover, most of them are small in size for the time period. So, paradoxically, larger size = less worn and in good condition. Paradoxically, larger size = less worn and in good condition.

-While street brands from the 90's to the 00's are being reevaluated in the vintage clothing market, the stand-alone world view is very interesting because it is away from the context of Uraharajuku, and it seems that some people will learn about "Low Rider" and dig it through this article.

As was the case last time, we would be happy if this collection provides an opportunity for people to come into contact with other cultures through fashion. The unique cut of the silhouette can be seen as mode, so I think it would be interesting to wear it with beautiful wool slacks and leather shoes on the bottom, I think it would be interesting to wear it with a sense of mix-and-match mode.

Sin / Owner, BLANK BLACK MARKET
He has about 16 years of experience in apparel, from sales to planning and production. Starting online, on November 11, 2023, he will select "items with a bit of a twist" with a focus on details and sizing in a genre-less fashion, street, casual, military, etc. At the same time, he will open a physical store "BLANK BLACK MARKET", a community store where customers can experience culture with secondhand books and beer. BLANK BLACK MARKET", a community store where customers can experience culture with used books and beer, just celebrated its first anniversary on November 11, 2024.
Instagram:@blank_blackmarket
Official website:.b-blackmarket.stores.com