Lecture 4 Takashi Abe
In my mind, the third is a synonym for G-janes and a complete form of G-janes.
What was Abe's first third type and what was his impression of it?
section (of an orange, etc.)I was 17 years old with "70505 E". I got a model with blanket lining for about 30,000 yen at Metro Gold, which was located in Daikanyama at the time, and it was my first denim jacket in my life. I really wanted one without the blanket, but it was more than 10,000 yen more expensive, so I had no choice but to compromise. After that, I got the first and second denim jackets as usual, but when I think of G-jans, I still remember this third type, or at least I think it is the same for everyone in our generation. I think at least everyone in our generation is like that. Many denim jackets of other brands are modeled after the third type, too.
Abe's Pick up_01
70519-1122 E
section (of an orange, etc.)My first one is "70519-1122 E" in pique material, which was given to me by an acquaintance when I was in my early 20s. It was a size 46, which was quite large for the time, and I remember it was cheap. Well, it's just fine now. It's not that I had foresight or anything (laughs).
chestnut fieldNo, I just got fat (laughs).
Fujiwara:In terms of piqué jackets, I don't think you see this "70519-1122 E" more than its predecessor model "941 E".
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.) 46 is very unusual in terms of size, isn't it? Don't they have thongs (see Vintage Summit Vol. 1) in third?
Fujiwara:There is no third. This is a side note, but there is in fact a leather patch for the "911 E" pants that is a counterpart to its predecessor, the "941 E".
section (of an orange, etc.)Really?
Fujiwara:Yes, I have sold one before. . because I sold one before.
section (of an orange, etc.)What year is the leather patch up to?
Fujiwara:As far as I can tell from my personal research, I believe it was 1958.
section (of an orange, etc.)Heh . It's been around for such a long time.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)But maybe it's just with regard to this unit, but even though it claims to be a "70505", it doesn't seem that much longer than a "941", does it? I thought it was about 42.
section (of an orange, etc.)Yes, about the same or conversely shorter.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Perhaps the length will be lengthened along with the width up to around 42 or 44, but for sizes after that, only the width will be lengthened, and the length will remain the same.
Fujiwara:As far as I know, it exists in third, at least up to 52. I believe Mr. Abe's company has one, and he showed me the installer. So that patch was marked "557 FXX".
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)F for FAT?
Fujiwara:(Laughter) . No , I'm not sure of the details. The second should be up to 54 as far as I know, so maybe the third has more than 52.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). with the way I feel now, I could totally wear a 50-up, you know?
Abe's Pick up_02
70505-1517 e
section (of an orange, etc.)The second one is "70505-1517 e". It is a so-called standard corduroy, but what about navy in terms of color?
chestnut field. If you think about it in combination with pants, I think it's still mainly brown, so I don't think it's too much.
section (of an orange, etc.)I took the liberty of thinking there was plenty of navy, but I guess it's a rarity nowadays.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes.
Fujiwara:Even without mentioning the number of balls, they are usually easy to wear and cool, which is why they are so popular.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I wonder if black on black stitching exists only in corduroy? I see brown stitching on black, but .
Fujiwara:I bought one that I thought was black with black stitching, and when our representative saw it, he completely denied it, saying that it was dyed after the fact (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.)After all, the most unusual thing is the pink and emerald that Konno-san mentioned?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Black doesn't show up at all either. And aside from being cool, I thought yellow and purple were also quite rare.
section (of an orange, etc.)Is it always paired with pants? Or is there a color for just the pants?
chestnut fieldPerhaps the red area is only pants, so it's not always vs.
section (of an orange, etc.)To be honest, I didn't follow third type corduroy jackets at all, so I still had the feeling of being a student .
Fujiwara:Well, they don't come up at all anymore. A used one in navy is about $15,800 , or $29,800 for a dead stock.
section (of an orange, etc.)It's really ⁉︎ amazing, isn't it?
Fujiwara:Also, koge tea has been slowly gaining popularity over the past few years.
chestnut fieldWell, even without limiting the color, the third type of this corduroy already doesn't appear at all in the US. Even the "519" (the counterpart corduroy pants) is not seen very often these days, is it?
section (of an orange, etc.)Yes , indeed.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). in case you are wondering, it is made in the U.S.A. , and its value may only continue to increase in the future.
chestnut fieldBy the way, is "558" what you wore today, Mr. Abe?
section (of an orange, etc.). yes, yes. The "558 XX." I got the "557" a couple of times, but it was still too short, so I was looking for the "558", and finally found it about a year ago .
Abe's Pick up_03
3rd TYPE SUEDE JACKET
section (of an orange, etc.). The third is a rough suede two-pocket. I apologize for my hazy memory, but I believe it was given to me by an acquaintance about 20 years ago. But it was a small e, so I actually felt a little bit inferior to it, but when I asked Mr. Yu about it, he told me that small e's are more rare, right?
Fujiwara:. Big E comes up quite a bit, but I really don't see small e.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)My personal impression is of JONIO (Jun Takahashi, designer of Undercover).
chestnut fieldI believe you wore it in "Last Orgy 2" (once serialized in Monthly Takarajima).
section (of an orange, etc.)At the time, they were so expensive that they were completely unaffordable and admired, but I remember that they were given to me quite cheaply for that price. I think there was a time when it was close to 100,000 at one point, but what about these days?
Fujiwara: . 29,800 yen to 39,800 yen, I think. Well, actually, there are more balls than you think, and those days were a bit unusual. However, I think the current price range is also too low.
chestnut fieldIt seems that the image of high prices in the past still exists, and American dealers still usually charge more than the Japanese market price, though (laughs). However, it may be that the current price is at the bottom in Japan, and the price is a little higher in Europe. In the longhorn and shorthorn era (the buffalo icon on the tag. The suede type with long horns is called "longhorn" and the short horns are called "short horn" as well.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)How many colors of shorthorn suede are there in all?
Fujiwara:I think it was black, green, gray, brown, or a coggy brown.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I would like to have the black one.
section (of an orange, etc.)I see, I was thinking that "557 XX" was the original third type, but if you include the suede model, that shape itself already existed before "557 XX".
Fujiwara:Yes, that's right . The collar is smooth leather, but there are pieces with longhorn tags, so perhaps the earliest ones, from the late '40s to the early '50s, that third type shape itself already existed before the second.
section (of an orange, etc.). In that sense, this design is still the perfection of the G-jacket.
chestnut fieldSomething nicely put together (laughs).
all of us(Laughter)
