The clothes that make me feel good are the ones that give me a sense of culture and manufacturing background.
No.1 Yuki Miura
PROFILE
After joining the shoe importer "GMT," he worked as a buyer and manager of the company's select store "Burnish," and then showed his skills as a PR person. His activities include brand direction and product planning.
Instagram:@miurachelin
Tracing the roots of its appeal as a product.
You brought five of the best outerwear pieces of all time with you this time.
Miura: The outerwear collection has about 20 pieces. Most of them are down jackets, but we have various types of down vests, duffle coats, wool coats, etc. As you can see, my recent staples are short-length only! However, as I get older, I can no longer say so (laughs).
What do you mean?
Miura: Oh, it's really a physical thing now (laughs). I get colder and colder every year. So these days I am indebted to down jackets.
Now, let me ask you what you think of each of the outerwear items. The first item is the MA-1 from "World's end," which is quite a rare gem.
Miura: World's End" was established on the King's Road in 1971 under the name "Let it Rock" and changed its name several times before becoming "World's End" around 1980. It is the main store of Vivienne Westwood. The fact that it was the main store of Vivienne Westwood and a special place that embodies the spirit, history, and philosophy of the brand itself makes it all the more special.
MA-1 from World's End
When I am doing this job, I think about what is the best down jacket, or what is the best mouton jacket, and so on. For denim jackets, of course, Levi's is the best...and so on and so forth. But what is certain is that this blouson is the best of all MA-1s.
It seems to me that you are truly carrying the culture on your back.
Miura: I usually wear vintage and secondhand clothes, so I have not strayed too far from that context, and although the expressions and designs were innovative at the time, I think I am into them now with a nice saltiness.
How do you often dress?
Miura: I wear this MA-1 over "the dress" jackets from Caruso and Brioni. I like to wear this MA-1 over a "the dress" jacket from Caruso or Brioni. I like it because I feel that only adults can wear it in this way. That's why I can't forget the shock I felt when I saw an early MA-1 jacket that was a combination of an MA-1 and a tailored jacket (laughs).
Filmerange's yakumuton
Next is FilMelange's yakumouton. The high quality of this item can be seen at a glance.
Miura: Can you tell? They are really fluffy to the touch! Filmerange is a brand that makes its products from threads, so their exploration of materials is tremendous. The outer layer of this item is made of wool, and the lining is made of Mongolian white yak, a rare type of yak, which has been shrunk to make it look like a mouton. The more you wear it, the more the inside of the yak gets furry.
In other words, the more you wear it, the fluffier it gets! It's also a great feeling for those who love clothes to be able to grow them.
Miura: Also, as I mentioned earlier, old clothes are basically cold (laugh). So when I was looking for a good outerwear that I could wear with old clothes and still look good, I found it. You can wear it when you are dressed up, and you don't have to choose what to wear with it.
Sometimes I wear it to a restaurant and hand it to them and say, "I'll take your jacket," and they say, "What? It's that light? and everyone is surprised (laughs).
It doesn't have the bulky feeling characteristic of mouton.
Miura: That tends to be the case with moutons in general. After all, the inner layer has to be a T-shirt or a long T-shirt. However, this one is wonderful in that it doesn't get fuzzy even if you put a lot of clothes on it. I think this is a masterpiece of mouton.
You've done a series of masterpieces, haven't you? So, Patagonia is next? But I don't think I've seen this one before.
Miura: A vintage clothing buyer bought a sample made in the late 70's at a flea market in the U.S. Later, a friend of mine, who is one of the best Patagonia geeks in Japan, acquired it and gave it to me. I've been asking for years to get a pair, and finally this year I got them.
Pile blouson by Patagonia
Miura: There is a pile jacket made in collaboration between Patagonia and L.L. Bean in this period. It is a pile jacket with a boa lining, and it is possible that this was a sample made during the prototyping process. I am not sure of the authenticity. But basically, this jacket with a hood was not made in this period with this tag, so either way, it is definitely a pile jacket with a "history".
Another special gem from you. How about functionality?
Miura: It's so-so cold because it lets the wind blow through (laughs). In winter, I wear a shell jacket over it.
In contrast, the other two pieces seem to be very warm.
Miura: I'm going to repeat myself (laughs), but for a while I was into researching which brand of down was the strongest. Pirex and Moncler have become so-called fashion items, so when I was searching for the best in terms of gear, I came across this brand from France, Valandré.
Valandrée's down jacket
I was originally interested in this brand because one of my seniors at the select store where I used to work used to wear it in the winter and thought it looked cool. It is a full-fledged outdoor brand and of such high quality that European alpinists love to use it. I was attracted by the stoic design and catchy logo, which are not found in fashion brand down jackets, and I also like the fact that I don't see many other people wearing it.
It is not so easy to wear in Tokyo temperatures, but it has a structure that retains body heat inside, and the difference in temperature between outside and inside causes it to puff up. It was originally made for snowy mountains, and the amount of down inside is not half of what it should be, so it is not suitable for daily wear in the city, but it is one of my favorite pieces of clothing, including the memories of my senior.
Multi-detachable reversible down jacket by Yoke
The other dress is from YOKE. This is the only new item in the collection.
Miura: This is another great down jacket that has been a standard item since 24AW, but it is reversible and can be worn in three different lengths (short, medium, and long) and with sleeves that can be arranged into three different styles (3/4-length, 5/8-length, and sleeveless). The collar can be removed and used as a scarf! The designer, Terada-kun, is the same age and from the same hometown, and I have been supporting him for a long time. When I saw this item, I thought it was as good as I expected.
Miura: And this exquisite purple is a coloring that stung our generation quite a bit. To be honest, I don't buy many new items these days anymore, but this is a masterpiece that I found myself buying when I realized that I liked it.
-As a result, all five pieces of clothing were masterpieces. Thank you for showing us these valuable items.