10 Perspectives on Gold Jewelry.

From design to welding, forging, and engraving—there is a brand where a single designer completes every step of the jewelry-making process by hand. That brand is 〈AVM〉, which has its studio in Nemuro, Hokkaido.

Set against the backdrop of the vast natural landscape of the north, each piece of jewelry created by designer Hiromichi Furukawa possesses the presence of a true work of art and the warmth unique to handcrafted work, setting it apart from the typical, highly polished jewelry.

In this article, we’ve selected three items from the “Arm” lineup. We’ll introduce them along with comments from Mr. Furukawa.

One of the models Mr. Furukawa holds dear is the “HUNTER” ring, which he created in the early days of the brand when it was still based in Tokyo. In pursuit of a deeper hue and a more substantial weight than 18-karat gold, the design uses 20-karat gold. Although it appears to be a simple gold ring at first glance, its distinctive feature is the intricate engraving of natural scenes on the inner surface that comes into direct contact with the skin.

“When I was living in Tokyo, there wasn’t much nature around me, so I created this ring because I wanted to feel the vitality of nature in my daily life. I wondered, ‘How can I bring myself closer to nature?’ As a result of that thought, I depicted a natural landscape on the inside of the ring—the part that touches the skin. I really love this design because it so tightly encapsulates my longing and yearning for nature. Here in Nemuro, where I live now, I’m surrounded by abundant nature, so I no longer feel that kind of yearning. That’s precisely why I’d say this design was born out of my time in Tokyo.”

For those purchasing a gold ring for the first time, we recommend the slim, minimalist “LAND.” Created after Ms. Furukawa moved from Tokyo to Nemuro, this ring features a matte finish achieved through a special finishing process. Even those who aren’t fond of the typical glint of gold can wear it with confidence.

"I named it ‘LAND’ to signify the earth. Living in Nemuro, I realized there’s so much of nature right around me—things that aren’t easily visible, like the phases of the moon, the ebb and flow of the tides, and the presence of animals. I wanted to express those elements, so instead of adding engraved patterns, I designed it so that when you slip it on your finger, you can feel a sense of oneness with nature through its overall feel. It’s slim and unobtrusive, and it pairs well with silver rings, so I recommend it even for those new to wearing gold.”

The newly released "PARALLEL" collection features jewelry that combines gold and silver. Remarkably, each link in the chain is crafted by welding together two materials—one half gold and the other half silver. As Mr. Furukawa said, “I wanted to create what I consider to be the ultimate chain,” and true to his words, this piece of jewelry is the result of an immense amount of time and effort.

"Since we mix gold and silver one piece at a time, the light reflected from each metal blends together, creating a hue that’s neither quite gold nor quite silver. It’s not as light as silver, nor as heavy as gold. We sought to express that exquisite, blended world. The cross-section of the chain isn’t simply round either; each link is hand-carved one by one to have a rounded interior and a sharply pointed exterior, making this the most time-consuming model to produce within the 〈Arm〉 collection.”

Among the items on display at “Dover Street Market Ginza,” there is a piece of jewelry that stands out from the rest. It is the London-based brand CASTRO.

Designer Castro Smith studied painting and printmaking before turning to jewelry design. To transform two-dimensional art into three-dimensional metal pieces, he mastered the art of seal engraving—deeply carving family crests, coats of arms, and initials—at a workshop in London’s Hatton Garden, the city’s jewelry district.

Furthermore, driven by this spirit of inquiry, he crossed the ocean to study here in Japan. He says he studied Japanese metalworking techniques—including engraving—and even the art of antiquing, which gives metal surfaces a well-worn appearance, under the guidance of metalcraft artists.

Many of his works use 9K gold signet rings as their canvas. On this small surface, he blends the tradition of seal engraving passed down through Western aristocratic society with the delicate touch of the chisel used by Japanese artisans. Using this approach that combines Eastern and Western techniques, he carves motifs such as animals, plants, and mythical creatures deep into the metal.

And so, each piece of jewelry—finished one by one by Castro Smith himself—is a masterpiece that perfectly embodies the phrase “wearable art.”

Whenever I meet her, stylist Lambda Takahashi is always wearing a variety of gold jewelry layered on her wrists and around her neck. Yet it never looks tacky—it’s completely natural. As one of the fashion industry’s foremost gold enthusiasts, what criteria does she use to select pieces, and how does she style them? I spoke with her while she showed me her personal collection.

It's become such a routine that I don't even have the option of not wearing them. I even keep my bracelet and earrings on when I sleep; the only time I take them off is when I go swimming in the ocean.

Gold prices have skyrocketed, so I haven't been able to buy much lately, but I used to buy it often in Okachimachi, and also when I went to LA or New York.

In Japan, 18-karat gold is the norm, but in LA, 10-karat gold is more common, and in New York, 14-karat gold is the standard. I’m not sure why (laughs). Personally, I think 14-karat gold suits Japanese skin tones best. Plus, it’s more affordable than 18-karat gold.

People often assume I got into it through hip-hop culture, but it actually started with American casual fashion. When I was in my 20s, I went to a shop in Harajuku called “Propeller”—it was like the mecca of American casual fashion—and right next to the register, they had college rings they’d imported from the U.S. and 14-karat Kihira chains on display. That’s where I bought my very first piece of gold jewelry.

When you think of American casual style, silver Native American jewelry is a strong image, and I actually used to wear it a lot in my 20s. But actually, real Americans don’t wear it as much as you’d think. The guys who rock the classic American casual look—flannel shirts, Levi’s, and Danner boots—often casually wear a gold chain around their necks. I’m sure “Propeller” must have seen that authentic style and decided to stock it.

When it comes to yellow gold pieces, I don’t really worry about it that much. Part of it is that I don’t buy gold that doesn’t go well together to begin with, but to be honest, even if you mix 18-karat and 14-karat gold and wear them together, I don’t think anyone looking at them would be able to tell the difference at all. Also, as with the ring I’m wearing today, I tend to choose designs with engravings on the surface. Designs like this tone down the gaudy sparkle, giving the piece a slightly matte finish that blends in better with the skin.

I think jewelry goes best with your skin tone rather than your clothes, so I actually make a point of getting a tan and keeping my skin a bit tanned all the time (lol). But when my clothes are brown-toned, or the hardware on my outerwear is gold, I coordinate my jewelry with gold pieces. On the other hand, when I’m wearing cool-toned clothes like the chambray shirt I’m wearing today, I mix in a little more silver to balance things out.

I also often choose jewelry for good luck. For example, I always wear a necklace with a squash motif—which symbolizes a bountiful harvest—or a ring with tiger’s eye, which is said to boost decision-making skills, whenever I go to play the slots (laughs).

Even though I understand the appeal of solid gold, the price is still a bit of a hurdle... For those who feel that way, I’d like to recommend vermeil as an alternative.

Vermeil is a technique in which a silver base is coated with multiple layers of gold. The fact that this technique was used in Cartier’s iconic vintage masterpiece, the “Must Tank,” should give you an idea of just how authentic it is. Because the coating is far thicker than standard gold plating, it is significantly more resistant to peeling. Yet, its greatest appeal lies in the fact that it remains affordable.

I found some jewelry made using the vermeil technique at , a brand helmed by stylist Shinichi Sakagami.

The collection features two types of gold—22-karat and 14-karat—with varying degrees of purity. The 22-karat gold, characterized by a deeper yellow hue than 18-karat gold, is available as a keyring and an adjustable bracelet reminiscent of Showa-era wristwatches. The elegant 14-karat gold, which sits comfortably against the skin, is available as a bangle and a 66-centimeter-long wallet chain. True to the spirit of SSSF—which creates products based on the philosophy, “If you can’t find what you want, just make it yourself”—each piece boasts a unique finish that feels familiar yet distinct.

What’s even more interesting is that the 925 sterling silver used as the base is vintage silver that sourced directly from dealers. Since they plan to release pieces in various shapes and styles from time to time, the fun of finding your own personal favorite from this ever-changing lineup will never end.

Many people probably feel a bit intimidated when they hear the term “gold watch.” However, if you think of it as a piece of jewelry—just like a ring or bracelet—that barrier might come down significantly. So for this article, we asked Daisuke Eguchi, owner of “Eguchi Watch Shop,” to recommend vintage watches that can be enjoyed as jewelry, organized by price range.

"This 'Première' is, like the ‘Cape Cod,’ and falls into the category of a jeweler’s watch—a timepiece created by a brand that isn’t primarily a watchmaker. Although it was originally designed for women, men have recently become much more open to wearing smaller-diameter watches, so I’d really like to see men wearing this one now. The watch’s greatest appeal is, without a doubt, the black-and-gold chain bracelet—an iconic Chanel design. Combined with the gold-plated case, it’s incredibly glamorous and makes a bold statement. I highly recommend it to anyone who wants to incorporate a watch into their fashion style.”

“Piaget possesses such high technical expertise that it even supplies in-house movements to Cartier; it is a brand that focuses primarily on creating simple, beautiful, ultra-thin dress watches. Among its models, the now-discontinued ‘Tradition’ stands out for its exquisite attention to detail—from the leaf-shaped hands and Roman numerals to the printed dial and the crown, which is beautifully recessed into the case. As a low-key brand favored by connoisseurs, it’s highly recommended for those who want to stand out from the crowd. Moreover, with gold prices soaring, it’s quite rare to find a solid 18-karat gold model available for under 1 million yen.”

“When it comes to solid-gold dress watches, I believe no one can surpass Cartier. This is a men’s size (LM) model from 1989, but I’d like to recommend the quartz (battery-powered) version. That’s because the price of the hand-wound models has skyrocketed to over 2.5 million yen, and maintenance costs at the manufacturer have also risen significantly. In the past, there was a perception that ”quartz watches can’t be repaired if they break,’ but Cartier offers a lifetime warranty on its movements, and if it does break, they’ll replace the entire movement as part of the repair. The notion that ‘mechanical watches are for life’ has changed; battery-powered watches can also be cherished as worthy lifelong companions.”

It’s fun to choose from the ready-made options displayed in the showcase, but haven’t you ever felt a little frustrated, thinking, “If only it were just a little narrower,” or “If only this part were silver instead of gold”?

The custom chain shop "NEEDIS," located in Daikanyama, Tokyo, is attracting attention from such discerning connoisseurs.

In addition to our original designs, the store features over 200 types of unique chains sourced from both Japan and abroad. Materials include not only silver but also gold in various purities, such as 18K, 14K, 10K, and 9K. From this selection, you can freely combine chain shapes and clasp designs to customize your very own chain jewelry—from necklaces and bracelets to anklets and rings.

Length, thickness, and material—the process of crafting jewelry from scratch that fits your style down to the millimeter is the very definition of luxury. If you haven’t found your ideal chain yet, I highly recommend paying a visit to “Needs.”

With roots in street culture and Black history, *Denim Tears* launched a fine jewelry collection that transcended the boundaries of mere accessories.

Designer Tremaine Emory positions his brand as “a medium for telling the stories of the African diaspora.” While shirts and denim inevitably wear out with use, that is precisely why he turned to gold as a material that never decays.

In this collection, motifs representing Black history—including the iconic cotton wreath, the Pan-African flag, and Black Jesus—are rendered in 14-karat gold. These pieces are not merely status symbols for the streets, but rather an approach to passing on our message to future generations. They are pieces of jewelry that embody the brand’s philosophy.

Incidentally, unfortunately, about a month has now passed since its release at the end of June, and all items are already sold out on the website. Apparently, only a select few items are still available for purchase at the *Denim Tears* store in New York. While future plans are still undecided, this is a collection we’d like to keep an eye on as it presents a new take on gold jewelry from a streetwear brand.

Founded in 1926, Oliver Goldsmith is one of Britain’s leading eyewear brands. To mark its 100th anniversary this year, the brand has released a special edition frame to celebrate this milestone: a limited-edition model crafted in 18-karat gold based on its iconic “OVAL” design, available in a worldwide limited run of 100 pairs.

Designed in the 1960s, this “OVAL” is an iconic model known for having once been a favorite of John Lennon himself. Its sophisticated, single-bridge design—featuring no nose pads—has been given a fresh new look through the use of 18-karat gold.

The price? A whopping 2.2 million yen. It’s certainly not something you can just casually afford, but there’s no doubt this is a masterpiece that will be talked about for generations to come.

You may have inherited jewelry that no longer matches your current wardrobe or lifestyle, making it difficult to wear. The remodeling service offered by the handmade jewelry brand *hum*, which has its atelier in Jingumae, Tokyo, is here to solve that problem.

What makes it unique is that they do not melt down the original metal for reuse. The Ham way is to extract only the gemstones from the jewelry brought in and then handcraft new pieces from scratch using new precious metals—including gold—provided by the brand.

Here is an example of a remodel specifically designed for men. By removing the diamond from a classic prong-set ring and reworking it with a gold base, we’ve transformed it into a modern ring that’s easy for men to wear every day.

There is no set template; during consultations attended by the artisan, we carefully listen to each client’s lifestyle and preferences, then handcraft a one-of-a-kind design. Prices start at 500,000 yen, and the lead time is 3 months or more (*subject to change depending on the design and other factors). Update a gem that has been lying dormant to a form that fits who you are today. As a way to achieve this, having it set in new gold is truly a luxurious choice.