10 Truths About texnh’s Craftsmanship, Infused with a Deep Love for the Downtown Neighborhood.

Fans are unanimous in saying that the design is beautiful. Behind this lies an approach that disregards efficiency. The groundbreaking features—said to have been born from the creators’ own insights—are also indispensable when discussing *Tekne*. It is the artisans of the old downtown district who are responsible for this kind of craftsmanship.

Matsumura:At my previous job, I often proposed designs without name tags, so people would frequently ask me to include them (laughs). To put it bluntly, if a product has a presence that makes it instantly recognizable, it doesn’t even need a logo. Relying on a logo just feels wrong, so to speak. With that critical perspective in mind, I decided to include a logo in the concept. I think I managed to bring that concept to life, at least to some extent, with the daypack.

Matsumura:When I took a closer look at a vintage daypack, I noticed something different about its appearance. When you put it on, it sags under its own weight. That’s irresistibly cool. Wondering what made it different, I took it apart and found that the construction was actually quite simple. The main body is just two pieces sewn together.

Nowadays, the fabric is cut into small pieces for yield and efficiency. Going back to basics, I made the entire bag—from the front to the gusset, the bottom, and the back—from a single piece of fabric. However, when scaling up the size using that pattern, there were too many areas under strain, so the current design—with the back as a separate piece—proved to be the most balanced and stable solution.

We chose tricot for the lining of the main fabric. While PVC and similar materials are commonly used to add thickness, they tend to make the fabric too stiff. We experimented with various materials to find a way to give the entire piece a more supple finish, and ultimately settled on tricot.

Matsumura:For our first collection, we developed a fabric made from recycled polyester. While we were pleased with the finish—which looked like cotton despite being a synthetic fiber—we began to question the prevailing trend of simply accepting something as “good enough” as long as it uses recycled materials. The essence of sustainability is ensuring products are used for a long time. I believed that fabrics capable of withstanding wear and tear would contribute more to the environment. That’s how I arrived at fabrics made from 66 nylon—a high-strength nylon commonly used in automotive and machinery parts.

Matsumura:I think I’ve come up with an interesting design feature: the strap at the bottom of the back panel. It’s connected to the shoulder harness as a single piece. By linking these two parts, the main body is pulled backward by the weight while simultaneously hugging the waist.

By eliminating the need for a reinforcement piece at the base of the harness, we were able to add another feature: a side pocket. Unlike conventional side pockets, this one features a zipper that runs along the vertical line on the back. Not only does this enhance security, but it also makes it easier to take items in and out.

Matsumura:I was bothered by how it bulged unsightly when I put a plastic bottle inside. The design of this pocket was the solution to prevent that bulge. With this structure, it maintains a sleek appearance while minimizing outward bulging.

To be honest, it was our customers’ requests that prompted us to go ahead with commercializing this product, but I also realized we should have made it sooner. Last year, when I took my child to the World Expo, I put a plastic bottle on the left and a sun umbrella on the right, and it really came in handy for protecting my child from the blazing sun (laughs).

Matsumura:Yes. As a sign of respect for the artisans, we include the name of the region where the factory we commissioned is located—such as “Taito” or “Katsushika”—on the tags.

If you want to get to know *Tekne*, start with these three items. We’ve selected some of the brand’s finest models, including a fresh take on the universally acclaimed masterpiece, the “Classic Daypack.” Beyond their striking appearance, you can sense the brand’s dedication in the thoughtfully designed storage layout and the meticulous selection of materials—each chosen for its unique qualities.

Mr. Matsumura was born and raised in Koto Ward, Tokyo. He chose Morishita as the location for his office, noting, “It takes less than 10 minutes by bike to get from my home to the office.” *Tekne* works with four or five factories, most of which are located in the old downtown areas of East Tokyo. This is because each of them has the potential to match Mr. Matsumura’s enthusiasm.

One factor is location. The ability to create products face-to-face is a value that cannot be replaced by anything else. Making bags isn’t a job that can be done simply by sending over a set of specifications. The real challenge lies in how deeply we can delve into those specifications to bring them to life in three dimensions. That is what this job is all about.

"While many of our overseas production sites are large and well-equipped, and there are plenty of excellent factories, I believe the greatest advantage of *Tekne*'s manufacturing process is that, by working with nearby factories and artisans, we can quickly produce partial samples and conduct detailed inspections."

And another reason is simply that “the finished product looks great.”

"It's true that a factory equipped with state-of-the-art machinery is impressive, but at the end of the day, the products are still made on an assembly line. Even if they can be finished exactly according to the specifications, you don't really get that extra something."

When it comes to *techne*, the factories in the downtown area have the edge. They say that even when it comes to producing the right quantity at the right price, they have a clear advantage.

"I also want to preserve the craft culture of the old downtown neighborhood. As a way of showing my support, I almost never haggle over the price of my work."

The factory in Katsushika Ward is the one we trust completely.

"Even when using the same leather, the overall look is different. I guess you could say the way it stands out is different. It has a certain presence right from the mock-up stage."

A major factor contributing to that look is the way the seam allowances are thinned.

"While it’s easier to sew when the seam allowance is thinned out, here we deliberately trim it while leaving some thickness. Leaving that thickness creates a unique, plump shape. There are many skilled techniques like this that are backed by experience. People might think that making a bag is just a matter of sewing it together, but it’s precisely this kind of work that truly tests a craftsman’s skill."

You can’t overlook the 1-centimeter, 3-stitch spacing either. If the stitches are too close together, you’ll cut through the fabric. This is the optimal solution that ensures both strength and aesthetics.

Most of the dozen or so artisans are in their 40s and have 20 years of experience. They understand the key aspects of bag-making without even having to be told.

A multi-purpose case inspired by a work belt Mr. Matsumura found at a market in London long ago, a card case modeled after a cigar case, and a coin design—all engineered to accommodate “AirPods Pro.” The fact that we were able to bring these unique ideas to life is a testament to our close collaboration with the artisans.

It has been five years since the launch of *Tekne*. To mark this milestone, Mr. Matsumura moved the company to a new office. He now occupies an entire three-story building and plans to open a shop on the first floor this December.

"I plan to make the most of the existing exposed beams and windows as much as possible. I’ll just clean them up and add a coat of paint. The structure with the concrete-reinforced column bases is also interesting, so I’ll leave it as is and lay boards across them to create built-in furniture."

I was surprised to hear that they weren't going to touch the exterior walls either.

"This area is more of a residential neighborhood than I expected. If the store were too stylish, it would stick out, so we wanted it to blend in with the neighborhood as it is. That was our top priority. Since there aren’t many other stores in the area, I think quite a few customers come here specifically to visit us."

Mr. Matsumura said he really wanted a place to convey the brand’s worldview. Why did he choose Morishita as his base for promoting the brand?

"I do get a little nervous in trendy areas (laughs), but we make and sell our products. It’s great that the whole process takes place in one place. Plus, we get to hear directly from our customers."

On the drive back to the office after finishing our interview at the factory, Mr. Matsumura spoke up. It was just as we were approaching Hanakawado in Asakusa, an area known for its shoe wholesalers.

"That building is the footwear wholesaler my grandfather founded. My uncle has taken over the business now. Come to think of it, I suppose I may have always been drawn to that traditional lifestyle where the shop is on the first floor and the living quarters are above it."

“I left ‘Yoshida Kaban’ because I just couldn’t shake the desire to make clothes.” Mr. Matsumura, who says he wants to take his time crafting the clothes he himself wants to wear, chose the “Bagless Blouson” for this project. “As the name suggests, it’s a blouson that lets you go without a bag. In a way, it’s a product that’s almost like self-denial (laughs).”

Mr. Matsumura refers to two men named Hasegawa as his mentors. One is Susumu Hasegawa, his former boss from his “Yoshida” days. The other is creative director Futa Hasegawa. He says that thanks to these two, he has honed his eye for “quality work.”

"Camping is one of my hobbies, and it was Susumu who taught me about the design of camping gear and how to tell what’s good and what’s not. From Fumita, I learned a lot about the appeal of interactive art and various aspects of minority cultures. Both of them share a keen sense of what’s trending, and I always learn something new whenever I meet them."

Here are some of the books and music that define Matsumura-san, including those recommended by the two of them.

“Collaborations not only open up new avenues but also help expand a designer’s repertoire,” says Matsumura. A prime example is 〈MONOCLE〉, which specializes in travel, and 〈WILDSIDE YOHJI YAMAMOTO〉, which focuses on black, are prime examples. What does this design work—which he says is focused on bringing out the unique strengths of each brand—entail?

Ms. Matsumura smiles wryly, noting that her collection of bags and accessories—including even the smallest items—might number no fewer than 1,000. These bags, which used to take up space in her home and office, are now stored through the storage service “Summary Pocket.” According to “Summary Pocket,” Ms. Matsumura holds the record for the largest number of bags stored in Japan.

"Since it captures each item individually, it also serves as a catalog. The archive is a source of inspiration, and many collections have been born from it."

One such collection is a line of bags inspired by military-style storage gear. We selected helmet bags, parachute cases, and sleeping bag pouches from our archives.

This laminated drawstring bag was inspired by that sleeping bag cover. The bottom is reinforced with a detail that evokes compression straps, which also serves as a design accent. We added a handle and a pocket. When you tie the drawstring, it takes on a balloon-like shape. This silhouette is a common feature throughout the Military Trilogy.

The company name “canall” is a coined term combining “can” and “all,” conveying the meaning “nothing is impossible.” The technical expertise and artistic sensibility that enable us to meet any request are also put to use in the creation of bags for a wide variety of brands.

"As an external designer, my job is to work behind the scenes and bring out the best in the brand," says Mr. Matsumura. His work has also expanded overseas.

One of them is *MAN-TLE*. It’s an Australian brand launched in 2016 by Lars Harry and Ida Kim, a married couple who were colleagues at *Dover Street Market Ginza*.

“〈Mantle〉 is known for its clothing made from stiff, textured fabrics. If you want to pair these heavy-weight pieces with a bag, the bag itself needs to make a statement as well. That’s why we proposed a messenger bag inspired by the ‘Royal Mail.’ We incorporated “Mantle’s” signature hardware, such as aluminum buckles and Tenax hooks. It has become a long-running collaboration with reorders coming in every half-year.”

Another one is the Canadian boutique "HAVEN."

"The client wanted a fusion of craftsmanship, utility, and functionality. By using Cordura as the base and incorporating leather accents in key areas, we were able to preserve a sense of handcrafted artistry. The hexagonal tab—an icon of ‘Haven’—is the standout feature. We just delivered it a few months ago. I’m looking forward to seeing the reaction.”