01_HOMMENA
PROFILE
Launched in Fall/Winter 2024 by a designer who honed their craft at brands such as and . True to its name—a portmanteau of the French word for “man” (homme) and the feminine noun ending (a)—the brand embraces the spectrum of gender and expresses a new, contemporary elegance through subtle dissonance in its details and soft colors.
Instagram:@hommena_official
—With so many brands out there, could you tell us about how you came to launch your brand and its core concept?
As I gained experience as a designer, I came to believe that launching my own brand was the best way to express my creativity in its purest form, which is why I started *Omna*. I view spiritual gender as something that exists more freely, spreading out like a gradient, and I embrace that ambiguity as a form of beauty. While reflecting on our innate physical structures, I express the fluidity between masculinity and femininity through my clothing.
—In terms of design, material selection, and other aspects of the manufacturing process, what are the points you are most particular about, or what are the unique strengths of your brand?
We value beauty that lies just slightly outside the realm of conventional correctness. While respecting the fundamentals and theories of garment making, we question the “correct” approach and introduce a subtle sense of dissonance. Another defining feature is our unique silhouettes, created by designing in three dimensions rather than on a flat surface. Regarding materials, we explore expressions that stray slightly from established norms by processing them—or using them in ways different from their intended purpose—after fully understanding their inherent characteristics.
—Please tell us about the 26AW collection. What is the theme, the source of inspiration, or any points you’d like us to pay special attention to?
The 26AW “I’m Mama’s Boy” collection reexamines “unconditional love” through the medium of clothing. Inspired by Takumi Ueda’s work “A Mother and A Child,” I revisited my childhood photo albums and, only now, came to truly appreciate the deep love my mother had shown me—a love I had taken for granted and failed to notice back then. Just as if slipping back into a long-stored memory, I have incorporated nostalgia, the traces of time, the warmth of love, and a touch of suffocation into the structure and details of the garments.
—The theme of this special feature is “Japanese Brands That Herald a New Era.” Looking ahead to the future of the Japanese fashion scene, what new values and styles do you hope to introduce through your brand?
Through 〈Omna〉’s clothing, I hope people will find a way to embrace their own style and values. There isn’t just one “right” answer when it comes to gender or beauty; even if you stray a little from the norm, I want you to enjoy that as part of what makes you unique. At the same time, I believe the thrill of discovering something you’ve never seen before is one of fashion’s irreplaceable charms.
FEATURED ITEM
Crumped Denim Jacket ¥88,000
This coverall-style denim jacket features eye-catching, three-dimensional, and intricate patternmaking, highlighted by its raglan sleeves. In addition, snap buttons placed throughout the garment allow you to adjust the silhouette of the jacket itself. Although crafted from rugged denim, the jacket showcases the brand’s signature delicacy and playfulness in details such as the pinkish fade that covers the entire garment, heart-shaped stitching (a twist on the classic arcuate stitch), and a small collar.
02_restrunt
PROFILE
A brand scheduled to debut in Spring/Summer 2027. It was launched by Kanta Hirasawa, who previously served as a designer at “Fol,” operated by “Bay Cruise,” after he went independent. The name derives from the word “restaurant,” and the brand creates everyday wear through a unique process—selecting materials with their own eyes and, at times, personally overseeing the selection of raw materials and the basic construction.
Instagram:@restrunt_official
—With so many brands out there, could you tell us what led you to launch your own brand and what its core concept is?
Over the past eight years or so, as I’ve been involved in clothing production, I’ve come to want to spend my days with the clothes we’ve made with our own hands, and to share them with a variety of people so that they can become a part of their lives—which is why I decided to launch this brand. As the name “restrunt”—a combination of “rest” and “run”—suggests, our concept and the brand’s guiding principle is to create “clothing for everyday life” that stays close to the wearer whether they are resting or running.
—In terms of design, material selection, and other aspects of the manufacturing process, what are the points you are most particular about, or what are the unique strengths of your brand?
The “fabrics” and “distance from the body”—which we consider the most important elements of “everyday clothing”—serve as the foundation for all our products. Aiming for fabrics that blend seamlessly into the rhythm of everyday life, we don’t just select materials—we’re actively involved in fabric development, dyeing, and finishing processes, and at times, even in the selection of raw materials. Furthermore, we place great importance on patternmaking and size balance—which ensure our products sit at the right distance from the wearer’s body—just as we do on our approach to materials.
—Please tell us about your 27SS collection, your debut season. What is the theme, what inspired it, and are there any specific points you’d like us to pay special attention to?
For Spring/Summer 2027, Season 01 takes “bookshelves” as its theme. While bookshelves—which serve as repositories of thought—are personal spaces not meant to be shown to others, we chose this theme because we believe they are unique places that vividly convey each individual’s aesthetic sensibilities and sense of time. This collection of 20 styles is the result of our effort to organize—one by one—the ideas that have remained constant since I first fell in love with clothing, as well as the new things and items I’ve come to appreciate through the process of creating them, with the goal of establishing a collection that will become the brand’s standard moving forward. I hope you’ll enjoy viewing these pieces while picturing your own closet or wardrobe.
—The theme of this special feature is “Japanese Brands That Herald a New Era.” Looking ahead to the future of the Japanese fashion scene, what kind of “new values” or “styles” do you hope to propose through your brand?
To be honest, this is a topic that makes me feel quite humbled, and I don’t believe I can simply propose new values or styles. However, I would be delighted if, through my clothing design and this brand, I could inspire even one more person to reflect on the clothes they wear every day. As someone working in a field related to “clothing, food, and shelter”—the fundamentals of daily life—I am committed to approaching the creation of each garment with sincerity.
FEATURED ITEM
Secondskin Sweater ¥ 36,300
A meticulously crafted 16G high-gauge knit, with every detail—from the yarn and fabric to the pattern—carefully calculated. The fabric is an original blend of “First Pick”—the first harvest of extra-long-staple Supima cotton from India—and long-staple Texas cotton from the U.S. This 100-count single yarn is spun into a three-ply twist and finished with minimal twisting. This results in a soft, supple feel against the skin and a natural, understated color. While the fit is relaxed, the overall design features a perfectly circular structure, and careful attention to the ribbing and finishing of the hem and sleeves ensures it never looks too baggy.
03_MIDTHINGS
PROFILE
The brand debuted in the Fall/Winter 2025 season, with Akihiro Kondo—formerly of *Attachment*—serving as its designer. The brand values the ambiguity that exists between things and creates clothing that cannot be confined to a single genre. In its debut year, it won the “JFLF AWARD,” sponsored by the Japan Fashion Culture Promotion Foundation.
Instagram:@midthings_official
—With so many brands out there, could you tell us what led you to launch your own brand and what its core concept is?
It all started when I wanted to take the memories that linger within me—or things I wouldn’t normally even notice—and turn them into clothing through my own perspective. The “MID” in MIDTHINGS stands for “middle,” and at the core of our brand is the idea of not clearly dividing things into two categories or limiting them to a single meaning. We pick up on things that draw us in even though we can’t quite explain why, or things that are so familiar we tend to overlook them, and we think about how they would look if turned into clothing.
—In terms of design, material selection, and other aspects of the manufacturing process, what are the points you are most particular about, or what are the unique strengths of your brand?
What I’m most particular about is choosing what to use as the subject of my designs and how far I can expand that world. It’s not just vintage clothing—memories from my childhood, everyday items, animals, cars… anything I find interesting can serve as a starting point. Rather than simply turning those things into clothes as they are, I want to filter them through my own perspective so that the final result embodies the spirit of *Mid Things*. I hope that people won’t just look at the clothes and stop there, but will imagine the scenery that lies beyond them—that’s what I find truly interesting.
—Please tell us about the 26AW collection. What is the theme, the source of inspiration, or any points you’d like us to pay special attention to?
For the 26AW collection, I reflected on “that unedited feeling—the moment before someone else sees it.” Whether it’s a child’s gesture, a scene inside the home, or things that have always been close to us—we’re capturing those sensations that remain in our lives even though we don’t usually notice them. They’re everyday moments, yet there’s a slight sense of tension to them. For this season, I wanted to create what I call “a sense of everyday life in fashion.”
—The theme of this special feature is “Japanese Brands That Herald a New Era.” Looking ahead to the future of the Japanese fashion scene, what kind of “new values” or “styles” do you hope to propose through your brand?
I feel like the closer something is to us, the less we actually pay attention to it. Our memories are vague, and there are some things we don’t even fully understand why we like them. In the world of fashion, where new trends emerge at a dizzying pace, at *Mid Things*, we believe there’s value in taking a second look at those discrepancies, those indescribable feelings, and the things we tend to overlook—and in reinterpreting them in our own way. When the things we’re used to look a little different, our mundane daily lives become a bit more interesting. That’s the kind of clothing we want to create.
FEATURED ITEM
SHRINK JACKET ¥ 77,000
A jacket tailored from felted wool serge. Originally designed with a silhouette that naturally flares toward the hem, like a British tailored jacket, the jacket features a slight asymmetry created by the intense felting process. The once-neat contours are distorted, the seams have sunk in, and the edges appear slightly frayed, creating an anonymous look. The small crescent-shaped pocket—a design carried over from the first season—subtly hints at the brand’s identity.
04_Daisuke Tanabe
PROFILE
Founded in 2023 by Daisuke Tanabe, a designer who worked in textile development at “HOSOO,” a long-established Nishijin-ori weaver, after graduating from Kyoto University. Drawing on traditional Japanese craftsmanship and advanced weaving techniques, the brand transforms these elements into a modern wardrobe that seamlessly fits into contemporary daily life.
Instagram:@daisuketanabe_official
—With so many brands out there, could you tell us what led you to launch your own brand and what its core concept is?
Ever since I was a child, I’ve loved movies, music, and fashion, and I’ve always wanted to work in those fields. In college, I studied patternmaking, and after graduation, I worked on textiles and product development at “HOSOO.” I started my own brand because I wanted to combine the structure of clothing with materials in my own unique way. At the core of my work is the idea of “standing on the shoulders of giants.” I place great importance on drawing the techniques and artistic expressions of those who came before me into my current life and personal experience, and from there, letting my imagination run wild to create a new perspective.
—In terms of design, material selection, and other aspects of the manufacturing process, what are the points you are most particular about, or what are the unique strengths of your brand?
We place great importance on reexamining familiar clothing and traditional techniques from scratch. We work closely with tanners and fabric manufacturers around the world to develop our materials from the ground up, and we continuously experiment with how to use them, the shapes of our garments, how they’re worn, and even how we present our collections. Our goal isn’t simply to create high-end, high-quality pieces; we aim to design clothing that has an element of surprise—garments that make people think, “I want that” or “I’d like to try that on,” even without knowing the story behind them.
—Please tell us about the 26AW collection. What is the theme, the source of inspiration, or any points you’d like us to pay special attention to?
For the Fall/Winter 2026 “Season 04 ”atom’,” we sought to find hope in affirming who we are right now, even amid uncertainty. With that in mind, we aim to create clothing that not only protects the body but also serves as a source of emotional comfort. We hope you’ll take note of the materials and colors that convey warmth within a serene aesthetic—such as fabrics where beige-gold silk peeks through the matte cashmere, or touches of blue set against subdued color palettes.
—The theme of this special feature is “Japanese Brands That Herald a New Era.” Looking ahead to the future of the Japanese fashion scene, what kind of “new values” or “styles” do you hope to propose through your brand?
I believe that the best works are those that spark people’s imagination. When it comes to clothing, I want to offer value that transforms the act of buying clothes into an experience that enriches the wearer’s life—from simple, everyday imaginings like, “I want to wear this and go to that place with that person,” to developing an interest in unfamiliar cultures and values through the stories behind the garments.
FEATURED ITEM
wallace ¥264,000
This jacket features an asymmetrical front overlap that curves and layers deeply, a stand-up collar accented with leather, and loop-and-button closures. While its classic silhouette evokes a sense of the past, it lacks any specific cultural roots, offering a uniquely cosmopolitan appeal. The double-faced fabric, woven from two layers of white cashmere and silk, is full-bodied and deep to the touch—achieved by fulling the fabric and then brushing only the cashmere side. The designer’s aesthetic sensibility—honed through a deep understanding of textiles—is evident in every detail, from the luxurious construction that forgoes a lining to reveal the fabric’s natural reverse side to the buffalo horn buttons.
05_Gurank
PROFILE
This brand was launched in 2022 by designer Eiji Sasaki after he gained experience in product planning at a major company. Unbound by national or generational boundaries, the brand draws on the exquisite vintage details found in military and workwear, reconstructing them with contemporary interpretations and original fabrics and patterns. The brand aims to create timeless clothing that develops character the more it is worn.
Instagram:@gurank_official
—With so many brands out there, could you tell us what led you to launch your own brand and what its core concept is?
The concept is “universal, everyday design—clothes and items you keep using without even thinking about it” and “clothes and items that become more refined the more you wear them, making you want to keep using them.” I don’t really think much about things like whether there are a lot of brands out there or whether *Grandk* is carving out a niche among them—it’s not really relevant to me. I guess I’m just making them because I want to create cool clothes. I don’t really pay much attention to trends; I simply want to make what I want to make, at the quality level I envision.
—In terms of design, material selection, and other aspects of the manufacturing process, what are the points you are most particular about, or what are the unique strengths of your brand?
There are plenty of brands out there that I look at and think, “That’s cool.” As for what sets us apart from other brands, I don’t really have a clear grasp of what those other brands are all about, so I don’t feel I can really compare us to them. I’m sorry. I think that if we focus on creating only the things we genuinely love—without chasing trends—that will naturally become our brand’s unique identity. Just as clothes look cooler when they’re well-worn than when they’re brand-new, I aim to create pieces that are cool in a rough-and-tumble way, rather than just looking neat and tidy. That’s the mindset I bring to my work.
—Please tell us about the 26AW collection. What is the theme, the source of inspiration, or any points you’d like us to pay special attention to?
Our brand concept and the principles I mentioned earlier have remained consistent, but as we’ve gained more experience, I think we’ve been able to make them more concrete, pay closer attention to the details, and create work that’s easier to understand.
—The theme of this special feature is “Japanese Brands That Herald a New Era.” Looking ahead to the future of the Japanese fashion scene, what kind of “new values” or “styles” do you hope to propose through your brand?
I'm creating my own style. I guess you could say I'm doing exactly what I want without cutting corners. I think it looks coolest when you dress in your own way without getting swept up in trends.
FEATURED ITEM
Camo Cargo Pants ¥ 55,000
This pair is designed based on the U.S. Army’s M-51. While featuring an extra-wide silhouette, the pattern is designed so that cinching the waist with a belt creates a unique drape and an elegant look. The fabric features the brand’s original camouflage pattern. Inspired by vintage 1980s British Army Gurkha shorts, these shorts are crafted from a soft twill fabric and feature a hand-dyed print using special ink. They also include a drawstring at the hem for adjusting the silhouette. These pants truly embody the brand’s philosophy of “learning from the past to innovate for the future.”
06_PASTOR NOVA
PROFILE
Debuting in the Fall/Winter 2023 season. By combining natural wool with cutting-edge synthetic fibers, the brand achieves a balance between the beauty of classic tailoring and the high practicality of functional gear. It offers a new generation of functional wear with a sophisticated aesthetic that blends seamlessly into urban life.
Instagram:@pastor_nova_official
—With so many brands out there, could you tell us what led you to launch your own brand and what its core concept is?
Drawing on my experience in fabric development—primarily for outdoor gear manufacturers—I wanted to launch a brand that approached design from the perspective of “fabric development first.” It was then that I fell in love with the exceptional functionality of wool, which led me to decide to establish a brand focused on the functional benefits of wool. While there are brands that offer techwear made primarily from synthetic fibers, as well as brands that use high-end materials to reinterpret classic styles, we are different from both. Instead, we focus on achieving a balance between the “luxurious texture” and “high functionality” inherent in merino wool, a natural material. Our concept is to redesign the functionality required for modern lifestyles while making the most of the comfort and beauty unique to natural materials.
—In terms of design, material selection, and other aspects of the manufacturing process, what are the points you are most particular about, or what are the unique strengths of your brand?
We place particular emphasis on the materials we develop in-house. Some of these have taken as long as three years to develop. We’re committed to maximizing the functional benefits of wool while mitigating its drawbacks, and we continue to develop these materials with a focus on texture and comfort. In terms of design, we prioritize the “sense of security” that comes from having a well-curated wardrobe and the “appeal” of fashion itself. We strive to ensure that these two elements coexist within each garment.
—Please tell us about the 26AW collection. What is the theme, the source of inspiration, or any points you’d like us to pay special attention to?
The 26AW collection draws inspiration from particle physics. While grounded in technical materials and construction, the collection allows opposing elements to coexist by combining seemingly incongruous components. Rather than simply fitting into the existing “techwear” category, a key feature of this collection is that it redefines “function” from various perspectives—including materials, construction, and comfort—to express a new kind of functionality.
—The theme of this special feature is “Japanese Brands That Herald a New Era.” Looking ahead to the future of the Japanese fashion scene, what kind of “new values” or “styles” do you hope to propose through your brand?
When people hear the word “functionality,” they often think of existing specifications or performance metrics, but at , we focus on “functionality” as the real-life experience gained from actually wearing the clothes and going about daily life. We aim to present the value that arises from this experience through our clothing. Centered on this “functionality” derived from real-life experience, we do not simply follow classic styles but redefine them to suit the present era. We believe that through this cumulative process, a “style” unique to will gradually take shape.
FEATURED ITEM
DIAGONAL TECH HOODED JACKET ¥69,300
A technical jacket featuring striking, dynamic diagonal cuts inspired by architectural structures. It’s crafted from the brand’s signature water-repellent fabric—a blend of wool and polyester—and discreetly incorporates mesh ventilation panels along the diagonal seams to enhance breathability. While offering high functionality as a piece of gear, this jacket is uniquely characteristic of the brand in that the fabric softens and molds to the body with repeated washings, allowing you to enjoy its aging process. By opening and closing the water-resistant zipper on the front, you can freely adjust the three-dimensional contours around the neckline.
07_HELS
PROFILE
Created by graphic designer Takeo Deguchi, formerly of *Comme des Garçons*, the brand will officially launch in Spring/Summer 2026. Based on the innovative concept of “humans and dolls wearing the same clothes,” it offers products featuring identical designs for both the brand’s original dolls and humans. The brand showcases the expandability of fashion by evoking the sensation of changing a doll’s outfit.
Instagram:@helswg
—With so many brands out there, could you tell us what led you to launch your own brand and what its core concept is?
I want to make fashion as simple as possible. As part of this effort, we’ve expanded the designs of some of our products—originally created for humans—to include 1/6-scale doll versions. Just like with dress-up dolls, people choose clothes, wear them, and collect them. I want to emphasize that fundamental joy of fashion.
—In terms of design, material selection, and other aspects of the manufacturing process, what are the points you are most particular about, or what are the unique strengths of your brand?
I’m particularly focused on capturing a sense of humanity. By designing clothes for dolls, I’m constantly mindful of what makes a shirt look like a shirt and a piece of clothing look like a piece of clothing. While respecting the codes of clothing cultivated over a long history, I aim to create garments that ordinary people would wear. At the same time, I believe there is room to experiment with new approaches when it comes to superficial elements, such as graphics. In such cases, I believe my experience as a graphic designer becomes a strength for the brand.
—Please tell us about the Spring/Summer 2027 collection. What is the theme, what inspired it, and what specific aspects would you like us to pay special attention to?
The shirts are based on McDonald’s crew uniforms, and the pants on IKEA staff jeans—the designs draw inspiration from corporate uniforms. This concept was inspired by traditional dress-up dolls, which come in a variety of uniforms that allow children to role-play different professions. From a practical standpoint, I believe the concept of uniforms—designed to be worn by people of diverse races and body types—is extremely effective in making fashion more accessible.
—The theme of this special feature is “Japanese Brands That Herald a New Era.” Looking ahead to the future of the Japanese fashion scene, what kind of “new values” or “styles” do you hope to propose through your brand?
I believe that the value and enjoyment of fashion extend far beyond mere sophistication and style. For example, collecting merchandise from your favorite artists or wanting a piece of clothing even if you can’t wear it are all part of fashion. While dressing stylishly will continue to be a major appeal of fashion, I also want to focus on enjoying fashion in a more casual way.
FEATURED ITEM
HELS Logo S/S Shirt(Blue Check) ¥28,600
This checkered short-sleeve shirt, with its eye-catching graphic brand logo, is unique above all for its source of inspiration. As mentioned in the interview, the design is based on McDonald’s crew uniforms. This “avatar-like” approach—where a dress-up doll is dressed in uniforms representing various professions—embodies the concept unique to : “humans and dolls wearing the same clothes.” It’s a garment that effortlessly bridges the worlds of reality and toys.
08_kiivu
PROFILE
The brand debuted in Spring/Summer 2025. Drawing on the heritage of a historic weaving mill that has been in operation since 1925, the brand creates its garments in a studio in Onomichi, Hiroshima. It produces original fabrics by incorporating new ideas based on its fabric archive. The garments, meticulously crafted by female artisans, are delicate and beautiful.
Instagram:@kiivu_official
—With so many brands out there, could you tell us what led you to launch your own brand and what its core concept is?
Drawing on our heritage as a dyeing factory founded in 1925, we launched “Kifu” out of a desire to share the dyeing techniques and textile development we have cultivated over many years with a wider audience. Operating under an integrated system that handles everything from textile development to sewing, we combine the delicate handiwork of our female seamstresses with our exploration of the roots and potential of fabric, starting with “raw fabric (Kifu).” We reinterpret traditional techniques through a contemporary lens to create products that offer new value.
—In terms of design, material selection, and other aspects of the manufacturing process, what are the points you are most particular about, or what are the unique strengths of your brand?
We begin by developing textiles, then conceive products that showcase those materials at their finest. Although we are a factory-driven brand, we do not focus solely on showcasing our technical expertise; instead, we value a manufacturing process where materials, sewing, and design come together as one by blending the sensibilities of the artisans and creators who gather in our small atelier. From textile development to dyeing, finishing, and sewing, we handle every step of the process in-house.
—Please tell us about the 26AW collection. What is the theme, the source of inspiration, or any points you’d like us to pay special attention to?
This season, we are launching a new denim line centered on persimmon-tanned denim developed in collaboration with a dyeing factory with a history spanning approximately 100 years. By reimagining the proportions and silhouettes of classic trucker jackets and five-pocket jeans, we have elevated these timeless designs to a contemporary aesthetic.
—The theme of this special feature is “Japanese Brands That Herald a New Era.” Looking ahead to the future of the Japanese fashion scene, what kind of “new values” or “styles” do you hope to propose through your brand?
Japan is home to numerous technologies and materials that are world-class, yet they are often not fully appreciated. At 〈Kifu〉, we aim not only to preserve traditional techniques but also to reinterpret them with a contemporary sensibility, presenting them as garments that blend naturally into everyday life. Our goal is to continue serving as a bridge between the skills of artisans and new creative sensibilities.
FEATURED ITEM
ZIP-UP JACKET – 12.5 oz Rainbow Denim + SUMI Chintz Finish – ¥57,200
Based on a work jacket, this jacket seamlessly blends classic charm with modern elements. The denim is woven using No. 7 indigo yarn for the warp and a blended yarn of pink and green for the weft; it is printed with ink pigments and finished with a special chintz treatment. Although it is denim, it has a leather-like texture. The pattern offers the three-dimensional silhouette of a tailored jacket, yet its boxy, relaxed fit is also part of its appeal. Meticulous attention has been paid to every detail, including action pleats.
09_CEIVE
PROFILE
Debuting in Spring/Summer 2025. The brand is led by designer Ayasuke Aso, who spent 16 years as a patternmaker at a Japanese fashion house. Rather than establishing a major theme for each season, the brand aims to offer items that “can become staples in the wearer’s wardrobe.”
Instagram:@ceiveofficial
—With so many brands out there, could you tell us what led you to launch your own brand and what its core concept is?
It all began with the desire to create “clothing that will continue to be loved for a long time, regardless of trends.” The concept is “clothing that is grounded in reason in every aspect, born from a constant reflection on what truly matters.” Even when creating a single item, we ask ourselves, “What makes something truly good—something essential that transcends fleeting trends?” By approaching each piece with this mindset, every element—from design and pattern to materials and construction—is given a clear purpose. Our design theme is “design that’s 0.5 steps ahead.” By adding a subtle “twist” to simple everyday wear, we propose a “slight sense of novelty.”
—In terms of design, material selection, and other aspects of the manufacturing process, what are the points you are most particular about, or what are the unique strengths of your brand?
While it’s true that we’re still a relatively small brand, we’re committed to drawing our own patterns and sewing our own toile samples. We believe that drawing our own patterns—which allows us to design aspects beyond just the visual appearance—is one of *Seve*’s strengths.
—Please tell us about the 26AW collection. What is the theme, the source of inspiration, or any points you’d like us to pay special attention to?
While we don’t have a specific theme for each season, we do suggest different “colors that go well with Sheve denim” every season. This season, brown is the key color, and we’re incorporating it into materials such as wool, fur, and corduroy. We also create denim with new silhouettes every season. This season, inspired by the concept of wearing pants at an angle, we’re introducing the “TWIST” silhouette and the “TWST WIDE” silhouette, which is derived from it.
—The theme of this special feature is “Japanese Brands That Herald a New Era.” Looking ahead to the future of the Japanese fashion scene, what kind of “new values” or “styles” do you hope to propose through your brand?
First and foremost, it’s crucial to raise awareness of 〈Seive〉’s clothing and increase its visibility. However, I don’t believe our work is done once we’ve shipped the clothes or sold them—we need to think about what comes next. While I’m not sure exactly when that will happen, as someone who creates and sells clothing, I believe it’s important for the brand to expand its range of services and become a “circular brand.”
FEATURED ITEM
P018 TWIST WIDE ¥53,900
Designer Aso, drawing on his deep knowledge of denim, has made denim an iconic item for the brand. Moreover, as a patternmaker, his attention to silhouette is extraordinary. This piece is made from 13-ounce denim and is a wide-leg version of a new denim style featuring a reimagined silhouette. The side seams are offset diagonally, and the piece is shaped using a three-dimensional cut that twists the fabric from the knee down. While it looks unique when laid flat, once worn, the silhouette emerges beautifully and boldly, creating a rich, dynamic look.
10_AS
PROFILE
The brand will unveil its pre-collection without revealing the designer’s identity, with the full launch set to begin with Issue 001. Starting from the fundamental silhouettes of classic garments, the brand reinterprets them into contemporary forms that blend seamlessly with today’s cities, today’s bodies, and today’s lifestyles. By achieving a high level of balance between formality and everyday wear, the brand offers timeless, real-world clothing that transcends passing trends.
Instagram:@as_design_tokyo_official
—With so many brands out there, could you tell us what led you to launch your own brand and what its core concept is?
Over the years I’ve spent designing clothing, I’ve grown older myself, and as my circumstances and values have changed, I’ve begun to reflect on what I want to wear now and what I want to present in the future. That’s how I arrived at my own interpretation of “OLD TO NEW.” There is always a reason why certain things endure across the ages. We view the root of this as the “Authentic Source” and translate it into new forms through contemporary techniques, materials, and our own sensibilities. That is the core of 〈A.S.〉.
—In terms of design, material selection, and other aspects of the manufacturing process, what are the points you are most particular about, or what are the unique strengths of your brand?
As a designer, the strength and craftsmanship of a garment on its own are a given. What matters most to me is whether there’s a real person behind it. I’ve imbued the phrase “Among Shapes” with the emotions and subtle nuances that lie between composure and passion. Because I myself still buy a lot of clothes, I want to incorporate materials, details, and structures that give clothing enthusiasts a slight thrill when they see them. I aim to create garments that exist beautifully in a person’s life—both when they’re wearing them and after they’ve taken them off.
—Please tell us about Issue 001, your debut collection. What is the theme, what inspired it, and are there any specific points you’d like us to focus on?
Issue 001 marks AS’s first Debut Collection. At its core is “Maris” (Marine Jacket), which evolved from the images of vacations and resorts that came to mind when thinking about summer into the concept of “City Resort.” Based on the Marine Jacket, the outer fabric features a silk-cotton neppy fabric, while the lining is made from a luxurious, gray-based gingham check in Turkish organic cotton. It has been reimagined as a new Marine Jacket designed for urban wear.
—The theme of this special feature is “Japanese Brands That Herald a New Era.” Looking ahead to the future of the Japanese fashion scene, what kind of “new values” or “styles” do you hope to propose through your brand?
Right now, many of Japan’s leading brands are established players that have built their reputations over five or even ten years. To be honest, the thought of us stepping into that arena is a little intimidating. However, at the trade show, we received more positive feedback than we ever imagined—from well-known figures, editors, and stylists alike—and we felt a real sense of momentum. We’ll take it slowly but surely. We hope to gradually bring a fresh breeze—one that’s uniquely “AS”—to the future of Japanese fashion.
FEATURED ITEM
Maris ¥ 143,000
This modern reinterpretation of the sailing jacket features a double-faced design, with an adorable gingham-check lining peeking out from the collar and pockets to catch the eye. The outer fabric is a cotton-silk blend with a rich, textured nap that exquisitely complements the classic feel. Careful attention has been paid to sampling the practical details found in vintage clothing, starting with the double-layered waist pockets designed to keep water out. Furthermore, meticulous care has been taken in the pattern-making of every detail, such as the car-coat-style cuffs that can be neatly folded back on one side.