Because we prioritize function and meaning, our clothing continues to become more refined.
One day in July. Mr. Kaneko was in Toyama. At Goldwin, the company that operates *Neutral Works*, he was conducting a final inspection of the samples alongside a patternmaker.
The item you're all checking out is the "WIND ANORAK," designed with 1990s vintage clothing as a reference. Although the original design came from a sports brand, Mr. Kaneko says, "Design is prioritized over functionality."
"The ’90s were kind of a transitional period for technology. When I look at sportswear from that era now, it feels very ‘analog’—the construction is kind of half-baked (laughs). How can we reimagine that as ‘ARCHETYPE’? I thought it would be a great starting point for us to all think about what makes our brand unique."
A vintage anorak designed to ensure only the bare minimum of mobility. We work with the designer to update its look for a contemporary aesthetic. Then, together with the team—including the patternmaker—we further refine this “foundation” and incorporate specific functionalities and practical features. This is how “ARCHETYPE” clothing is created.
"The clothes from are designed to be easy to move in and highly functional, which makes them quite complex. In contrast, the items from ‘ARCHETYPE’ are incredibly simple, so I thought they’d make it easier for everyone to work. But what really stuck with me was when you said, ‘It’s precisely because they’re simple and ordinary that you can’t cut corners.’”
Naturally, extensive experience and knowledge are required to create complex patterns that hug the body, as in sportswear. Conversely, with simple patterns, the cutting lines are directly reflected in the garment’s silhouette. That is precisely why a patternmaker’s skill is put to the test.
“Even the tiniest difference can affect the silhouette. Simple clothing is challenging precisely because these differences can’t be compensated for through design alone. On top of that, we have to consider patterns for ”clothes you can wear for 10 years.’ Since the silhouettes people want change with the times, this is another factor that has made the process more difficult… That said, it seems like thinking through these challenges is actually part of the fun for all of you, and hearing you talk about it put my mind at ease (laughs).”
And there was one more thing that surprised Mr. Kaneko: “functionality.” Simply making ordinary clothes would defeat the purpose of partnering with . It is only by incorporating functionality that fits seamlessly into everyday life that “ARCHETYPE” truly comes to life.
"As we look at the samples, everyone starts offering suggestions like, 'What if we added this feature there?' Whether we're choosing fabric or drafting a pattern, they always think about 'what the purpose of that is.' Since I don't have that kind of insight or knowledge, it's really educational for me."
From high-performance apparel worn by top athletes on the field to functional products that make everyday life more convenient, Goldwin has created numerous iconic products in the sports and outdoor sectors. Drawing on the knowledge and expertise cultivated over many years, the company continues to innovate through ongoing research and development.
"Don't all those ideas come up and end up causing a bottleneck? ” You might wonder that, but everyone here prioritizes reason over intuition when discussing things. With fashion, we tend to think in terms of intuition, so exchanging opinions on things without clear answers can lead to conflict. But with the team, that doesn’t happen. Because we prioritize function and meaning over appearance, our clothing becomes increasingly refined.”
When I spoke with the team members, they told me, “It’s not just about appearances—we put a lot of thought into the details that aren’t immediately visible.” I couldn’t help but sense their professional pride in those words.
“It really made me realize, ‘There are so many ways to play around with clothing,’ and I feel like I’ve discovered a whole new level of depth. From the very beginning, I wanted to create something that went beyond my imagination, and I’ve been experiencing that firsthand ever since I started making these pieces.”