From Yasuhiro Mihara to Masayuki Ino . Philosophy passed down from generation to generation.
Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO(Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO)" held a show in Tokyo this spring to celebrate the brand's 20th anniversary, and recently returned to Paris for the first time in two and a half years. Doublet" has been on a breakneck rise in recent years, winning the Grand Prix at the LVMH Prize, which was also announced in Paris. Did you know that the designers of both brands have a master-disciple relationship? Yasuhiro Mihara of "Maison Mihara Yasuhiro" and Masayuki Ino of "Doublet" have built an extremely good relationship even after they parted company. However, they have never appeared together in the media as such, and this was a very special and premium first session. The conversation went on and on, from Ino's time at Mihara Yasuhiro to their philosophy of craftsmanship, and before we knew it we had spent more than four hours together. Please bear with us until the end of this intense conversation, which captures the mating of the two souls. This interview took place before the announcement of the LVMH Prize.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I think this is the first and last time our conversation will take place, so please keep me in mind.
well fieldNo, I really think that might be true .
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). and then immediately do it again somewhere else (laughs).
well fieldWell, that's fine (laughs).
Have you ever had an offer to do a dialogue project between the two of you?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). There was, but I had refused. Until now, I thought that my presence would be an obstacle for Mr. Ino. I was not sure if "Doublet" would be perceived as being like "Yasuhiro MIHARA," and while I was happy to hear that Ino-kun was working with me in the media, I did not want that image to be attached to my work. However, I felt that Ino-kun would be able to do it regardless of that, so I decided to accept the position.
Today, I would like to ask you about your time at "Mihara Yasuhiro", your creations, and your future plans. I would also like to ask you some questions about each other.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)We often exchange questions with Ino-kun, even if we are not told what we want to ask each other. We often show each other our collections before they are released. We usually tell each other about our collections without concealment. We usually talk about our collections without concealment.
well fieldYes, it is. When I showed them the look for Fall/Winter 2018 for [Doubleday], they said, "That's vulgar" (laughs). I was trying to make it vulgar, so I don't have any particular objection.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)The words "vulgar" and "pervert" are compliments.
(laughs) . So, first of all, I would like to ask you about your time at "Mihara Yasuhiro".
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)What would you like to hear first? It's a long story (laughs).
Nice to meet you (laughs). When did you join "Mihara Yasuhiro"?
well fieldI think it was when Mr. Mihara was about 31 years old .
It was probably about 15 years ago .
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Yes, that's right. At that time, I was pretty much on the take, and we did not hire any assistant designers. There was a production control person, but I basically refused to accept applications from assistants. Then I received a resume from Mr. Ino-kun, and during the interview, he said, "Please make me your apprentice. I thought, "What a bad guy!
well fieldExcuse me (laughs).
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)The book I brought was interesting, but in the end I turned it down at that time. At the time, the team was small, about 4 or 5 people in all, with me as the designer. To be honest, I didn't really want to think much about training those under me. But even though I had turned them down, I began to receive a lot of straw papers with ideas written on them about once every month or two. . They were things like knitwear made from cassette tapes, or jackets shaped like boobs.
Do you remember Mr. Ino?
well fieldOf course . I still have that.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I have a belief in creation, and that is "to design as little as possible. The essence of an idea is very simple, and design is just the process of giving form to the idea, in other words, it is something that must be done. When I saw what Ino-kun had written on that piece of paper, I thought, "He really understands this. . He was only writing his ideas, not designing. . In the end, he sent me about seven copies of that "Ino Monthly" kind of thing.
And Mr. Mihara didn't give you any response?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I did not .
well fieldIt's a bit of a stalker, isn't it?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)But I like your enthusiasm, don't you? I was the same way, but when I was first thinking about making shoes and working on various projects, it was normal to get turned down once or twice. . And I was a 22-23 year old art student at the time. I was turned down 10 times by the same company. I was treated like a child. Anyway, I was starting from a place where I had no value to the world.
I see.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)But if you are so overcome by it, things will never change. . In fact, many of them will never approach you again if you turn them down once. It's just part of the job-hunting process. I thought, "If I turn them down once, they won't come back," but they kept coming back, so I decided to give it a try. So I called Ino-kun and asked, "What are you doing? I called him and said, "I'm working at a belt shop. I said, "Well, I'm on my way," and we went to a belt shop along Senzoku-dori in Asakusa.
You moved quickly.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)It was a company that made very fine belts. The president of the company understood Mr. Ino very well and had him work on a project when he had just joined the company. I felt sorry for him, but I asked him, "Can you come? He immediately said, "Yes.
well fieldYes, definitely (laughs). But I had been telling that president for a long time. . about sending design drawings to Mr. Mihara and so on.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)It was also great that Ino-kun was working in the leather industry. I used to go to the Asakusa area often.
After Mr. Ino joined the company in the clear, how did Mr. Mihara initially treat you?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I was lenient with the other students, but I was very strict with Ino-kun. Ino had been with me for 7 years, and in the beginning, I sent him to visit craftsmen in Asakusa to change the atmosphere of the work site by making them gag. There are many elderly people in this industry, but if the work site is dark, there is no work to be done.
So you have to nudge the craftsman.
well fieldAt first, I was often told, "You don't have to do anything, just go to Asakusa and come back to make everyone laugh.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Many people still don't have computers, so we can't communicate by e-mail, and we still have to send faxes and make phone calls.
It's not like you don't have a computer, right?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Of course there is, but in the shoe and leather industry, that kind of thing doesn't work at all. There is no such thing as company compliance, so it was a common occurrence that if the person you were working with did not like you, you would not work for them. In other words, there were times when production would not be completed on time unless Ino-kun was well-liked. For the first year and a half, I went around the factory with Mr. Ino and drilled into him that kind of groove.
well fieldWhen Mr. Mihara goes to the factory, the old men there relax. I could feel that everyone liked Mr. Mihara. I interpreted that in my own way and tried to get as close to him as possible.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)But the amazing thing about Ino-kun is that he would go into the factory and do production and so on. He was also involved in finishing touches, and I thought this was something that took a lot of guts.
well fieldI thought I was better than him (laughs).
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). yes, yes. . but it is natural to be good at it. Craftspeople who mass-produce are inevitably thinking about the number of days they can produce, so their pace is fast. For example, if I were to make a product, I would have to pay attention to every detail, and I would have to set a good example for others to follow, so it would take time.
. So you are able to create more carefully because of that. By the way, when did you know that you wanted to become an apprentice of Mr. Mihara?
well field. about the time I started working at my previous company. I was working in the same leather industry, but the shoes that Mr. Mihara made were so perfect that I had no idea how he made them. I wondered how even a single piece of leather could have such an expression. That's why I wanted to see how he reached his goal of making things. And also the process. That was my curiosity.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). I think it means "making something with blood in it. Even if the same amount of time is spent on the same process, if the creator's feelings are not involved in the process, then nothing satisfactory can be produced. It is a mysterious thing, isn't it? But nowadays, it is becoming very difficult to build such a relationship. But I think about this all the time. there are words like "MD" and "branding," but I think there are many brands that do not have passion and blood.
In this regard, I feel that the items from "Doublet" are filled with various thoughts and feelings.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Yes . I can see that when I look at it. Perhaps it is a delusion to think that something is infused with life, but I believe that such a thing can be seen clearly on the other side of the product. That is why I was happy to see the name of the person who made the product and a note of gratitude on the tag of the "Doublet" product. . However, I thought that such feelings were something that could be conveyed on their own. So I thought, "I'm just going to put it into words" (laughs). But nowadays, there are many people who don't understand, and they feel differently. So I thought it was very important to do that. I felt that it was very important to show that it was not a machine that was making the music.
well fieldWhat you said earlier about being liked by artisans is like saying that if a girl who likes me cooks for me and she cooks for someone else, the food she cooks for me will probably taste better.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)It feels delicious, doesn't it? . But if you eat it thinking, "This is bad," everything is bad, and if you eat it thinking, "This is good," it's good.
well fieldYes, that's the way it is , isn't it?
It is great that the two of you are able to communicate in that way.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). Yes, that's right. So, at one point, I asked Ino-kun to do the design work, and once he started, it was easy for us to work together. When we started working on it, it was easy for us to work together. He would say, "Ino-kun, please think of something perverse" (laughs).
well field. and then they go wow (laughs).
But you also said earlier that you were hard on Mr. Ino. What does that mean?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). I believe that originality cannot be achieved without an original philosophy. A brand such as ours cannot approach the essence of creation unless it is taught not only superficial design methodology but also philosophy. In the history of fashion over the past 100 years, almost everything has been done. In such a situation, every brand is creating a sense of the times by baking around the ideas of various brands. However, brands without a philosophy are only superficially pursuing it. It is not enough to have a desire to identify the essence of craftsmanship. In order to derive originality, I sometimes work out complicated formulas, but the most important thing is to have an unwavering philosophy and beliefs, and that is what we need to teach. However, most design schools do not teach such things. To begin with, the word "design" has no meaning at all. If you look up the word "design" in a dictionary, you will find the word "design. For example, if you say, "Let's make this part round," you can say that such work is design. That is design. Design, which everyone thinks of as creative, is something else. Of course, design also requires knowledge and technical skills. But what is important is the ability to see things for what they really are, and the philosophy with which to give form to the ideas that come to mind. The reason I was strict with Mr. Ino was because he already understood this methodology.
He said he was being harsh because he knew what he was talking about.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). I'm not interested in cool or tacky, or what's trendy at all. Instead, it is important to be able to see the root of an idea without looking aside from it. . But it is not that easy to have your beliefs accepted. To begin with, what we make are mass-produced products, so I am not the only one who makes all the processes from 1 to 10. . What does it mean to make a mass-produced product? With so many people involved, it is not like a conveyor belt. This is especially true for shoes. It doesn't work like that. However, Ino-kun used to make leather products, so he understood this from the beginning. Maybe that is why he was able to speak so strongly. I can't speak so strongly to people today.
Can't you tell?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)They quit as soon as I tell them. . I think that's why the industry is declining. At one time, there was a huge increase in the number of shoe schools, and more people wanted to go into the shoe industry, but no one stayed. There is a sense of stagnation in the industry, and young people don't want to stay there. Well, you could say that they just don't have the guts. Of course, there are some people who have stayed, but there are far fewer people coming into the declining leather and shoe industry. Young and new makers want to work in a place where they don't have to deal with such restrictions, so they make their products outside of Japan, in China. That's just the way it is, but Ino-kun and I often said, "We have to be the savior.
well fieldYes, it is.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)He said that we have to work hard now to create an environment where we can make shoes for the next 20 years. But even if that were to happen, I think the people I have a relationship with now would be gone. Most of us were in our fifties or older at the time. So, inevitably, it is important for us and the generation below us to decide what we will pass on to future generations and what we will leave behind. We are the last generation to know what the craftsmen of today are like, and I feel that we have to be a link between the two generations.
So you taught that communication with the craftsmen was important.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Yes, I am. That is why I told him to run around so much that the whole industry would be on his side. or to run around so much that the entire industry would be on his side. . Design, ideas, and making products were of secondary importance.
Is such a way of making Mihara-san unique?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I used to go to the artisan's office with Ino-kun, but we would just buy snacks and go there without thinking of any ideas.
well fieldIt is a Japanese sweets shop located at Morishita Station on the Toei Shinjuku Line (laughs).
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Yes, yes (laughs). So I would buy some o-hagi and go to the artisans and formulate ideas with what I saw.
It's very tense.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)We would create a situation where we would have about an hour and a half of meeting time, and if we couldn't come up with something good, it would be the end of the project. There was no guarantee that we would come up with a good product because we spent so much time on it, and we were testing to see if we could trust what was produced in this atmosphere.
It's more like improvisation , or live performance.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). It is only when you stand on the edge of a cliff that you can see the true nature of the situation. Human beings don't always have good times, so you have to perform your best even in bad times. . It would be foolish to say that creations would change because his wife left home.
Indeed .
well fieldWe would find a spoon and have a session like, "Let's put Swarovski on it," or "Why don't you drill a hole here," and so on.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)You were doing it. The craftsman's place was so dirty that there was no place to step on, but that was OK (laughs). I think you can make beautiful things in any place, and you can make things that move people in any environment. That is why I put myself in the worst environment (laughs).
I'm kind of nervous just listening to what you have to say.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)But it's fun, right?
well fieldYes, it was fun . I just thought, "I can't come up with any more ideas! I look at Mr. Mihara and see that he is eating his rice cakes and looking absentminded (laughs). (Laughs.) But it appears that Mr. Mihara is always ready to come up with an idea when the moment arises.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Before, I didn't have an assistant and was on my own, so I had to come up with ideas under those circumstances to get the story going. . At any rate, the craftsmen were all eccentric. At first, they didn't listen to me at all and said, "I can't sew in this part! I had to work with them to find a way to sew it. But as I learned and absorbed more and more, the craftsmen gradually opened their hearts to me. It is a repetition of this process. I am worried about letting someone who can't do that do design work. I am not comfortable having someone who can't do that do the design work, because there is a lot of work to be done without me, and I don't want to be judged on every single thing. I should just choose what I think is best for you. I know that in general, this one is better, but if you think that one is better, then it must be so. There is a certain improvisational quality to it. Clothes with broken embroidery made by Ino-kun or T-shirts in plastic are out of place in a department store, and there is a part of me that wonders how it would look if I thought about laundering.
(left) 2017SS _doublet , (right) 2018SS _doublet
. but it's fun.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Yes . . I don't think that was something that came out of years of thinking. . It's about whether or not you can believe in an idea that you thought was interesting at the time.
well fieldMr. Mihara used to say, "Live performance is important. Whenever an idea occurs to him, he says, "If you don't take it to the end right then and there, it will fade away.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Yes, I agree. If you're going to paint a picture, you have to do it all at once.
So the "Doublet" clothes have momentum, don't they?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). but Ino-kun changed a lot when he started doing boot-like things.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Ino's condensed expression of skate culture during that season made me realize that designers of their generation have a very strong connection with the culture. Our generation was more chaotic. On the other hand, my predecessors, such as Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo, and Yohji Yamamoto, were more self-reliant and had no links to any culture. They existed only by the individuality of their brands. Our generation is probably somewhere in between. I like clothes, but I also try to understand such creations. But there are cases where a cake looks great, but the cream or chocolate used in it is bad. There are many people who ruin the taste of a cake in order to make it look beautiful. I always thought that was not the case. Ino-kun values both the taste and the appearance, and he is rich in ideas. As someone who worked with him, I am happy to see that.
The more I listen to Mr. Mihara, the more I feel that his philosophy has been passed on to Mr. Ino.
well fieldMr. Mihara says so, but for about a year and a half after I joined "Sosu," the words he was speaking sounded like English. In short, I could not understand him at all. I think that was one of the reasons why I was so strict. But at some point, I began to understand. I don't speak English, but it is said that if you listen to English for a long time, you can understand it. It's just like that. After that, I began to understand what they were probably asking for, and I was able to assist them.
So it took about a year and a half for that to happen.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). a year and a half, I remember it well, because I thought it would be difficult if I didn't make it for three seasons in a row. . but I had the potential to do it in the first place. In that respect, young kids often misplace their freedom.
What does that mean?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I think it is easy to understand since Ino-kun also worked on shoes, but shoes have a lot of restrictions. To begin with, they have to be wearable, and their area is small. However, because of the lack of space, a lot of experience and time are accumulated in the shoe. It is like a bonsai in the Japanese sense of the word. I am trying to create a microcosm (cosmos) in a small world, and I am seeking such a sense of cosmos in my shoes. The most difficult thing for me when I moved from shoes to clothes was that there are skirts and dresses, and I felt that the world is very large. I was like a fish released from a small tank into the Pacific Ocean. But most of the time, I couldn't do anything, and they died right away. Because they don't know how to catch food. Therefore, the first thing a person in creation or design should do is to create his or her own restrictions within the context of freedom.
. That is how originality is born.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I am not confident in my ability to be cool, but I believe that I am a first-class person when it comes to inspiring others. I also believe that one of the ways to make people happy is through creativity. Take the movie "Amelie" for example. The main character is an imaginative and inspirational girl, and she feels all kinds of things. People around her say, "There's something wrong with her," but she is happy and can't help it! She's just having fun! Such a child seems to be happy, doesn't he? My wife is rather like that. She is just enjoying life. She is not concerned about money or status or anything like that.
They are strong, aren't they , people like that.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)What we make should be something that will make people think about something, even if they do not feel that way in their daily lives. In other words, what we are trying to do is to inspire and force people to think. With the advancement of technology, we don't have to think about many things , even a child can touch an iPhone. There are no instructions, no language, and the controls are intuitive, so you don't have to think about it. . That is why I believe that we need to give people the opportunity to think with what we are making. We have to make the things we are making seem ordinary at first glance. . The more reality there is, the more natural it seems to everyone. . but when you look at it closely, it feels unnatural. What is this? When we stand between natural and unnatural acts, we are forced to think.
I see.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Now that's what Marcel Duchamp said, but I hated his work from the age of 13 to 19. The reason why is because his works keep asking the question, "What the hell is art? As a boy who liked Cézanne and Monet, it is natural to think that just signing a toilet bowl cannot be art. Marcel Duchamp kept me thinking about that for six years . This is a very big deal. I thought, "If there are 100 people, 100 people can think differently. But in this day and age, the tendency is for everyone to say what is right. This is due in large part to the influence of television, but I can't help but feel that everyone is trying to look in the same direction to an excessive degree. It is taboo to even argue with them.
I certainly feel a kind of peer pressure.
2016SS_doublet
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)For example, "Doublet" has a skateboard bag, right? In order for 100 people to have the same impression of this bag, the person who made it must say, "This bag is made from a skateboard board. But that's just changing the stereotype of "this is a skateboard. If it is just there without explanation, then everyone will interpret it as they see fit. Themes and titles are ultimately a trick. People see it that way, but what you want to convey should be different for each person. Some people may think that the hanging threads on the "Doubleday" NEW YORK T-shirt are a work in progress, others may see it as a message about the typography itself, and still others may be reminded of 9/11 because of the crumbling of NEW YORK.
2016AW_doublet
Interesting.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)For the first year and a half, we talked about these things all the time.
So Mr. Ino said, "It's like listening to English.
well fieldWhy do you design?" I was often told, "You design too much.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)As I used to tell Ino-kun, there are products that have an eraser on the back of the pencil, right? There is a difference between a design and an idea. That product is the result of an idea that was given form as it was. The act of writing and the opposite act of erasing are simply connected. The design is to change the eraser part to something else, to make the pencil lead more colorful, but if you do that, the idea disappears. . So I told Mr. Ino, "If you have an idea, just give it a pure form.
well fieldAnd you have to do it at the beginning. Otherwise, the first person to come up with the idea will not be the strongest.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Ino-kun, you know exactly what I mean. I think everyone thinks of something similar. Therefore, you have to dig out the deepest part of the idea. If that part is taken away, everyone who later does something similar will end up with "Doublet" or "Yasuhiro Mihara.
well fieldYes, we can only be second best.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Design is a way of disguising it. It is very difficult to design without losing ideas. It is very difficult to design without making ideas disappear, and your clothes, even in my opinion, are a perfect example of this. ...If things continue as they are today, I could write a book.
It's true (laughs).
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). One of the things that Ino-kun and I have been researching is a fixed concept. No one would be impressed if you just put a skateboard board on the ground, but what if it were a bag? The distance between things and people changes, doesn't it? People see what they don't see, and that is a fixed concept. The clothes Ino-kun is wearing today are also an ironic reference to a popular brand. . How do you make people feel such metaphors? . It means having a conversation while looking at the distance between things and people. . I don't want to go any further. It's like revealing the seeds of a magician, and smart kids might try to imitate me.
well field. the fundamental thing we were doing.
But still, you were communicating with great density.
well fieldAll Mr. Mihara has to do is say two or three key words, and I immediately know it's that story.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I usually have something to say.
well fieldNo, no, no, no, that's not what I meant (laughs).
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). but that's how I've been thinking with Ino-kun for a long time. . like about the concept of words. We often say "simple," but the meaning of simple itself differs from person to person. It is very difficult to derive the essence of simple. . But there are reasons why people think something is cool or cute. I used to do this for fun: I would walk into some store, walk right in, touch my coat, lift up my shoes. . and as soon as I left the store, I would explore my awareness of all the actions. . because there is a reason why I touched the coat and lifted the shoes. So how do we touch people's brains without touching the contents of our own brains?
So if you don't understand that, you can't inspire others.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)In terms of recent "doublets," there are T-shirts that are flattering, right?
Yes . This is the item that made the video "HOW TO USE PACKAGE T-SHIRT" .
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)It's a mass-produced T-shirt package, but maybe that one has been sitting around so long that the contents have become gobbled up by the package. Was it "UNDEAD-STOCK?"
well fieldYes, that's right . You remember me properly (laughs).
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)What kind of things will rise up as you look at it? . You have to dig deep enough to let the things speak to you. It is also important to create a common language. If you show an MA-1 to someone living in the jungle, they won't understand it , because they speak a different language. . But we are in fashion, so when we see an MA-1, we immediately understand. We hear a language that is not a word. . Because we are living in the same culture at the same time. We are creating a language in our creations. So I don't see why "Doublet" can't be recognized abroad.
well fieldI think people from overseas think more about things. What does that mean?
, the NEW YORK T-shirt I mentioned earlier, may be just like that.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). You can interpret it however you like. When I made shoes with different front and back halves (sneakers in the front and leather shoes in the back), I was often asked, "Why is the shoe in half?" I was often asked why the shoes were halved, but I answered appropriately (laughs). (Laughs.) When I explained, "They are totally different when you look at them from the front and from the back, so this represents the duality of human nature," they would only see it that way from now on. . From there, stereotypes will be created again. Also, irresponsibility is important to break down stereotypes. The more irresponsible you are, the more people will interpret things as they wish. I don't know what David Lynch is talking about in his movies, but even in his movies, people are imagining and coming up with stories. The work itself doesn't need an answer, but people want an answer.
well fieldMy favorite thing to do these days is to start with items like the "Dead Stock Package T-Shirt" to stir up the interest of the viewer. Then, when the desire for "What does this mean? Then, when the desire for "what is this all about?" grows, I lead them in the wrong direction using techniques like the one in the video.
It's more like smoke and mirrors.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)That video was interesting. I don't really like the Instagrammatic world. . Because I judge information based on whether I like it or not. When I saw what Ino-kun made this time, in a sense, he was making fun of those various things.
. it's obviously not just a How To video.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)It is a comedic take on the world of "Can You Do It?" that we are all familiar with, but actually has a serious tone, and it also incorporates gender elements. It is a work with a variety of cultures. I think it is a very well-positioned work.
well fieldThank you very much.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). it made me think a lot in terms of how to present what I made. . That shirt, if you ask me if it was comfortable to wear, it was obviously not. Besides, I'm sure my clients thought it wouldn't sell even if I left it on the hanger rack like that. We turned what was on everyone's mind into something humorous and gave it a proper form. You can't express something like that if you're trying to be cool, but I thought it was really cool. No other brand could do that, and it was great that we were able to convey that atmosphere.
How about it , Mr. Ino.
well fieldI was thinking that I needed to make some kind of How To video for that item series, and I thought that Noppo-san would be the best choice for crafts. And since Noppo-san doesn't speak, I thought it wouldn't be unnatural for a gaijin to not speak.
(Laughter).
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)What I liked best was that the ticker properly said "by Dublet".
well fieldWithout that, it would not be realistic.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). Even in something like Ultraman, the first thing that comes up is "Director~".
It's something like "Akio Jissoji's works".
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Yes . Bringing that to fashion seems fresh, doesn't it? As I have told Ino-kun before, there is a phrase that I often use with my friends, "sublime meets ridiculous," where "sublime" means sublime and "ridiculous" means ridiculous. It's important that something ridiculous and something sublime happen at the same time, and moments like that are very moving for me. But nowadays, ridiculous things are considered ridiculous and sublime things are considered sublime, which is boring.
. In the first place, people around the world don't know "Can you do it?
well fieldI'm sure you would.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). but from our point of view as Japanese, it is very ironic.
well fieldI have already ingrained this way of thinking in my mind. It's like a conditioned reflex.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)As we talked in this way, I began to remember more and more of what Ino-kun and I had talked about. . I originally came to this world because I wanted to harmonize art and people. In the past, when I went to see works of art displayed in museums with my parents and decided to touch them, I was scolded. That is when I realized that people and art are not in harmony. One of the reasons I entered art school was because I wanted to study in a place where people who love design and art gathered from all over Japan, but in reality, it was also an academic world. After all, art is considered by itself to be an existence that transcends people . . The more sublime it becomes, the higher the price of the work rises, and there is a notion that art and people are detached from each other. . In this context, shoes are an icon and a symbol to harmonize people and art. . Therefore, my creation of shoes was part of my artistic activities. I want to harmonize art and people by creating things that people use , rather than creating an era in which people consume art. . As I said earlier, art is something that forces the viewer to think. Art is completed when people think, but art that does not force people to think will always be art. The reason why no one thinks when they see the Mona Lisa is because it is a cultural heritage and no longer art. For us, it is very important to make people think, and I think it is wonderful that Mr. Ino has continued to do so.
I see. . you are very skillful in verbalizing your thoughts.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Before I was able to verbalize it, I made a lot of mistakes too. . when I made something like an abstract painting, no one could understand it. Come to think of it, I made shoes for a friend for the first time when I was 20 years old, and the one thing he said to me was very cruel. . "Wow, there is only one pair of shoes in the world. In other words, my shoes were replaced by the word "rarity. I was 20 years old, and all of my philosophy was based on what I had learned from art, but I realized that it was no good unless I destroyed all of that.
. that all our thoughts are created by the influence of others, .
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). yes, I am. Philosophers also say that if you don't create your own philosophy, even if you reject everything other philosophers are saying, you will never find your original end point. But when you get into that kind of thinking, you come up with something that says, "I see. . that the concepts we have and what we see are our own delusions. There is a movie called "Rain Man," right?
It's about an autistic brother and his brother.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)There is a crappy story about that brother who memorized all the bookshelves. Normally, if you did that, you would lose your head. So, in order not to lose our minds, we memorize things by symbolizing them. So, if there is a button on a shirt, we recognize it as a shirt, and if it is written in letters like "patagonia," it looks like "patagonia. That dress from "Doublet" is not written like that, is it?
well field. "painting" (laughs).
2017AW_doublet
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). That is a phenomenon caused by the symbolism of a single advertisement created by a company. So when people see something like that, they feel a sense of discomfort and a certain pleasure. ...I'm talking too much, Ino-kun, please talk more (laughs).
(Laughs) . Nevertheless, these good relationships have continued even after Mr. Ino became independent, haven't they?
well field. yes, I know. . but the relationship may be more intimate these days.
Why is that?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I was consciously keeping my distance.
I see.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Ino-kun had not been making things for a while since he left my place. He took a break for various reasons. . Then, when I heard that he was going to start his own brand, I immediately went to the exhibition. I asked the journalists at the exhibition to buy my products. I would say to the journalists at the exhibition, "Buy it!
well fieldThat person really bought it, though (laughs).
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). this brand is called Doublet," he said. It will definitely sell from now on! (laughs). At that time, I was happy, but on the other hand, many people said to me, "That sounds like Mihara-kun. I just couldn't help it. I was "Yasuhiro Mihara. I think there were people who thought I looked more like "Mihara Yasuhiro" than "Mihara Yasuhiro.
So you felt like you were supporting them in the shadows at that time.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)When Nick Wooster came to the show, he asked me if I knew any good brands. I told him that I liked a brand called "Doublet," and he said, "Oh, I know it," and I sent him to an exhibition at Hikarie. But even at that time, overseas buyers appreciated "Doublet" regardless of my existence.
Does that mean that the reputation from abroad came first?
well field. maybe Nick , or Sarah (Andelman: founder of the Parisian boutique Colette, which closed) were big.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). and people from Dover (street market). Various people gathered around Ino-kun. But Ino-kun doesn't get carried away, and he doesn't get all uppity, which is a good thing.
It is true that Mr. Ino is always humble whenever we meet.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I'm going to take this opportunity to ask you, but I think that "Doublet" is slowly getting bigger now, but do you have any plans to make it even bigger?
well field. I don't think so. . I think I am big enough now, and I still want to do what is within my reach.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I see. Also, whether or not it is in line with the times, there are some cases of having a directly managed store. And recently, they are doing it on the Web. However, some young designers today don't have their own stores, and some brands don't use the Internet. I don't mean to imply that there is anything wrong with that, but is it because of their own beliefs?
well fieldI believe that I can bring out my brand more colorfully if I am doing something exciting with the various stores I do business with, rather than opening my own company-owned store. I enjoy working with the people at the stores.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Certainly, when I saw the pop-ups at "Dover Street Market" and "WISM," I thought the way of having sessions with store owners was new. . You seem to like that kind of thing, don't you, Ino?
well fieldAs for the Web, there are stores that sell my products, and I believe that I am here today because those stores are transmitting information to me. I don't really like the idea of doing the same thing on the Web because it seems to me to be like taking the best of both worlds. If it sells well in the store, it will lead to the next order, so I think that's fine. I also think that web fans get bored easily.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). that's the scariest part. Is this person really buying these clothes because he/she wants them? I wonder.
well fieldIt's not that I want clothes , it's more like buying by brand. Besides, it would be conspicuous if there were any unsold items on the Web. If there is a sign somewhere that says "~% off," I feel sorry for the customers who bought the items at the regular price.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). nowadays, they go on sale right away.
well fieldThere is something sad about being told that something you bought was on sale. . That's why I thought it would be better to have sales on an irregular basis. Sometimes they do, sometimes they don't.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Well, the fashion cycle is exhausting. The game of fashion is becoming more and more intense, and the more mainstream it becomes, the more risky it becomes. From now on, for example, we don't have to hold exhibitions in Paris, but by distributing videos and photos of the exhibitions, we don't have to do it at the pace of twice a year, once in spring/summer and once in fall/winter. In the first place, the purpose of collections is to get on the fashion circuit. It is easy to do, but if we cooperate with buyers and make full use of the Internet, I think it is not impossible to do what we want all year round. Ino-kun, you are of a generation that can do such things.
well field. I am close in age to the people in responsible positions at the stores I do business with, and that may be a big factor. People of your age are a little older and are in charge of management, right? People my age are just on the front line.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Our generation is very picky (laughs). Well, most people in the world are conservatives. So it can't be helped that designers like us are in the minority, and it can't be helped that the people who sell our products are in the majority. At the same time, I understand that it is no good if fashion revolves around the idea that it must be accepted by the majority. Therefore, we have to compromise on this point. I am well aware of this, but the way fashion is graded, like a majority vote.
well fieldI understand.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). like the number of clicks on an e-commerce site or the number of followers on a social networking site . If we start making things based on these guidelines, we will lose our raison d'etre. In the eyes of the world, we are completely eccentric.
well fieldIt's inevitable, isn't it , . It's like finding a gap between the gaps.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). Even so, there are many tricks, or strategies, for selling things. . For example, we use creative ways of using cardboard boxes for shipping.
What does that mean?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I used to draw ants and goldfish on cardboard boxes. I also used to draw ants and goldfish on cardboard boxes, and put candy in the empty spaces of shoe boxes. When the customers opened the box, they would be surprised to see such a strange device, wouldn't they? He is very clever in the way he shows these things.
I see , that's great to hear.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Right . . Then, the store clerks might push them more than other brands, right? Perhaps that's why "Doublet" is always placed in a good spot. It was the same at Dover Street Market in London. But we moved it to a better location, so that it can be seen from the front (laughs).
well fieldThank you . I do it with my own clothes too, sneakily shifting them around (laughs).
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)In addition to such efforts, Ino-kun is now on the side of influencing designers, and he is making epoch-making products. I think that his peers may look at him and be inspired or even feel jealous. . but the people who pull off such things are often the ones who are the furthest removed from making money.
They say that the second or third best is more profitable.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Yes . . and then worn by international influencers, and so on. Is there any creativity in something with a random logo on it? Of course not, there is no such thing. I don't mean to make fun of the logo culture, but it is the same as advertising. What you are creating is clearly different from that.
well fieldCome to think of it, when we had our first exhibition in Paris, Mr. Mihara told me, "Ino-kun, the doublet is seen as a colorful thing. Since Mr. Mihara was the only one who could say such a straightforward thing, it was kind of helpful at the time.
You are a wonderful teacher.
well fieldYes, thank you , I appreciated it.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). We want to keep on doing what we are doing without getting greedy. I have seen many of my predecessors who sold their products in a blitz, made billions in sales, and then lost track of what they were doing. The bigger the brand gets, the more strategies are needed and the more things you have to think about. Of course, I would like to increase salaries as the staff grows, but I don't see the need to grow beyond my capacity. I think it's important not to waste our own spirit. Having said that, I think it's great that a decision like Christopher Nemeth's to stop wholesaling altogether because he only needs to feed his family.
That is the difficult part, isn't it?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)But Ino-kun, at first glance it looks like you have grown rapidly, and you have been working on your brand for 6 years already. I think that's a lot of hard work. The last two or three years may seem glamorous, but .
Mr. Mihara is also very persuasive because he has been watching from the beginning.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I liked a lot of the stuff from the days when you couldn't even get a bridge or a stick (laughs). (Laughs.) I also liked the ones that made everyone turn their heads and say, "Hmm? (laughs).
(Laughter)
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)When people think of "doublet," they probably think of the current feeling, but there was a time before that, too.
well fieldThe reason why you said at the first exhibition that my work "looked like Mr. Mihara's" was because the way Mr. Mihara was doing things was like a textbook in my mind. . I felt like I was just a person who had Mr. Mihara's philosophy. However, I think it was around the collection of skateboards that Mr. Mihara told me that things had changed a bit, and I think that was the point where I was able to blow off steam.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Yes, you're right, I'm blown away.
well fieldUntil then, I was somewhat serious about making it, I guess.
There was certainly a thrusting exhilaration in that season.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). the reaction of the people around me obviously changed. I remember that the view of not only international buyers such as Sarah, but also domestic journalists instantly changed. I thought, "Suddenly, this has become a fashionable thing. Looking back, everyone was a "mutation" when we started. There were people who had been assistants for some brands and then went out on their own, but Jun Takahashi, Takahiro Miyashita, and I were not affiliated with any one company. We started suddenly because we "hated current fashion" or because we wanted to "fight with art" like me. People like that don't have much trouble because they were able to go ahead with their own momentum. . I am glad that they were accepted as a result. I thought that Ino-kun "mutated" by suddenly changing his style. If it had not been someone I knew, I would have been quite annoyed. If it had not been Mr. Ino, I might have thought, "Let the stakes be high" (laughs).
well field(Laughter)
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)There are things I can't do. I can write "TYEDYE" on tie-dyed fabrics and "KNIT" on knitwear. After that, Virgil (Abloh) of Off-White wrote "SCULPTURE. Virgil is very much influenced by Tom Sachs, but Ino's work is more comedic or humorous.
It's very bold.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)You write "wappen" on a badge! (laughs). (Laughs). "This is not a sweatshirt, it's a knit (I'M NOT SWEAT SHIRT BECAUSE I AM KNIT WEAR)" and so on.
well fieldOh, I remember that well, it was a long time ago (2015 SS).
2015SS_doublet
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Anyway, I'm just going to go into it, and I think it's great. You're influencing a lot of designers now.
It is true that the number of brands that have adopted such a technique has increased greatly since then. What are your thoughts on this?
well fieldNo, not really. I get ideas from various sources, too (laughs).
But still, it is that season, isn't it?
well fieldYes . Everyone says so, after all. While listening to Mr. Mihara's talk, I was just now thinking about what was different, and from that point on, I decided not to take things too seriously and behave in an orderly manner. If I did it as it was, it would become part of the philosophy of "Yasuhiro Mihara," so I decided to do whatever I wanted.
I see.
well fieldAlso, when we were working together, I heard that Mr. Mihara did not like that kind of method very much. . Maybe that is why those words remained in my mind. But at a certain moment, that disappeared, and I was able to create something that was more open and clear.
The parody and humor in "Doublet" today is not something that you suddenly acquired, but something that you originally had. It was just that it was during that season that he decided to bring it out into the open.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I guess so.
By the way, I would like to talk to you about the show (2018AW) at [Mihara Yasuhiro] the other day.
well fieldThat was really cool, that was really cool .
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Thank you . But that was a travesty (laughs).
well fieldNo, no, no. It's just like that thing you were talking about earlier, the ridiculousness and..,
. "sublime meets ridiculous".
well fieldYes, that's it!
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). Fundamentally, many of our shows are like that. But if a show is just about walking around in clothes, it will soon be replaced by other content. In fact, we already know a lot about clothes just by looking at pictures and videos. . Therefore, a certain kind of madness is necessary, and it must be intellectual. . And it should not be a scheduled event. My shows often feature live musicians, so if I put a drum set in the middle, for example, the audience thinks that a live performance is going to take place and that the models are going to walk in. . That's the scheduled harmony. But this time, the models don't appear right away.
well fieldYeah, it didn't come up.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). yes. On the contrary, no performance took place, and suddenly the sound of truck engines and beeping warnings were heard. I wanted people to think, "What a bunch of old guys who can't read the air. What's going on when we're doing a show over here? And when we came out of the truck and entered the venue, some people might think, "What the hell is going on? I think there would be people who would think, "What the hell is going on?
Anyway, I was impressed by Mihara's smiling face.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I had actually prepared a lunch box on the runway and road measuring equipment, but I didn't have the courage to go that far.... I wanted to see how far I could go with the farce. I was afraid Mr. Ino-kun would say, "That's a bit too much" (laughs).
The collaboration with "DC Shoes" was also impressive.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)A former employee of mine is now at DC Shoes, and that's how it all came together. He and Ino-kun were about the same age. He was in charge of clothes.
So there was that kind of connection.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)The collaboration with PUMA ended in 2015, and three years have passed since then, so I wanted to do something else, and that's when I came up with the idea. For that show, we used not only clothes from "YASUHIRO MIHARA" but also from "DC SHOES," including T-shirts and jerseys. The clothes were also designed by the same girl.
well fieldI see!
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)A logo as big as that T-shirt is supposed to be cool in three rounds.
2018AW_Masion MIHARA YASUHIRO
well fieldNo, it's genuinely cool.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)However, from the point of view of the people at "DC Shoes," it's hard to understand why they are making these logo items. The brand wants to hide its logo. . However, when I showed this picture to the people back home, they seemed to understand. The brand's logo itself was inspired by the logo of a certain maison brand, and I like the attitude of a skate brand doing something like this.
Such anarchism is something that Mr. Mihara has always had, isn't it?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Yes, there is, but I have learned to wrap it up in an ostentatious way. Before the show, I would have been more direct, but I've grown up (laughs).
well fieldBut I was really impressed with that show .
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)After the show, Ino-kun was the first one to come and tell me that he was happy with the show, and I was very happy at that time. I thought I had saved my reputation as a master (laughs). . Since it had been a long time since I had a show in Tokyo, I actually gave it a lot of thought. Moreover, this show was not a pre-exhibition show, so it was not a business show, but a show that I really did for the people who would come. However, I didn't want it to be just a fashion show, and I wanted to create something memorable. I talked with the director about the fact that if you just spend a lot of money, people won't take it home with them. There are many shows with amazing sets. I thought that the more money we spent, the worse it would be, so we decided to try it without spending any money. We were even able to rent a truck for a reasonable price (laughs).
. but it didn't feel cheesy at all. . rather, it was a rare show filled with a happy atmosphere.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I think that in a show like that, it's not so much about what people think of us, but more about how much fun we want to have. I was glad that Ino-kun came when I came back to reality and wondered how everyone was feeling. My wife told me, "Ino-kun was crying.
well fieldI don't know why, but it was like that.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). It was a milestone, the 20th anniversary, but it was a lot of fun.
well fieldBut if I were to put on a show like that, I would be called a complete idiot (laughs).
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)It's okay , it's okay. Well, but let's face it, Ino-kun's first show,
well fieldI was told to be very serious about it.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). yes. The reason I ask is that although it was fine to use a variety of people, I wasn't sure if it was Mr. Ino's collection or not. I felt that there was too much of a feeling that it had to be fashionable. Of course, there was a part of me that found it stimulating. . But I noticed the quality of Mr. Ino's clothes even when I was wearing them in a normal way. I don't mean to bring up other brands, but at the Gosha (Rabchinsky) show, ordinary people were just wearing ordinary clothes. But that was very convincing. I think that your generation became fashionable because they did not believe in fashion. Therefore, they were able to see culture more clearly. But once it became a show, I felt that they were too conscious of fashion.
I see.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Also, "Doublet" has a strange sense of reimportation. We Asian designers usually have the image of destroying Western culture, but Mr. Ino seems to be destroying it, but he is not. That is what makes it interesting. He is doing something destructive with embroidery, prints, and other visible methods, but he is not destroying the culture of clothing.
Indeed it is.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Also, I feel that you have taken the environment in which you grew up directly overseas. Takasaki and the like.
Yankee-like .
well fieldThat may be.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). So I wanted the show to feel like a local culture gone international. . I honestly felt that I tried too hard. . But looking back now, I can understand why they wanted to do that.
well fieldYes, I simply wanted to do that one .
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I know Ino-kun too well to have this kind of impression, but for those who are new to "Doublet," I think it may have been very good.
I feel that Mr. Mihara is the only one who can say this about that show .
well fieldIt really is. And it was very helpful that you told me that at the beginning. Otherwise, I might have thought, "I want to do another show.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)No, I don't mind if you put on a show.
well field. but without Mr. Mihara's words, I might have gotten carried away. I really appreciate it.
They love you, don't they?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Ino-kun, everyone loves you.
well field. but I have seen Mr. Mihara's attitude, and I think that's how I got that feeling.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)No , but I wouldn't draw a portrait on my invitations (laughs).
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)It's already a training, that one.
well field. but I had a crazy sense of accomplishment (laughs).
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I am impressed that you remember the face of each and every person to whom you send invitations.
well fieldI didn't know some of the people, but everyone collected pictures.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I see. But I still have the invitation. I haven't even opened it. I'll open it when you die, Ino-kun.
I have heard many things about what you think about Mr. Mihara's creations, but can you tell me what you think about Mr. Ino's creations?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)No, Ino-kun, you can't say that (laughs).
well fieldWell, yes . But I have one question. Recently, through repeated reflection and correction, I think I have gradually found my own originality, but did you have originality from the beginning?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)No , it was more sensual at first.
Please elaborate.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)There was a store in England called "House of Beauty & Culture" that was made by artists such as John Moore, Christopher Nemeth, and Judy Brame, and I was struck by the atmosphere of the early 80s in the UK, which is when "i-D" was created. Up until then, I liked punk and electric hip-hop, but "i-D" was full of things I didn't know what they were. . but it was just full of thick movements. There was the punk culture of Vivienne (Westwood), there was the gay culture, and then there was the world created by Nemeth and others, and everything from music to drugs was there.
Everyone who was fascinated by UK in that era would say that.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). Actually, I didn't like fashion that much at that time. . I liked fashion derived from punk and music, but I was getting older. . Then, as I got older, I decided to make shoes, not serious shoes, but something that I didn't understand.
well fieldI see.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)In the midst of all this, I started to think that John Moore was really cool. But I couldn't become him or beat him if I kept following him. So I experimented with various things, and as I did so, I tried to deviate more and more from the concept of shoes. I'm looking for superficial originality. I think this sculptural curve is original," he says. In other words, "touch. It's like Monet's touch. Then I ask the question, "Is this original, or is it my own creation? Is this my originality or my creation? "Are you being driven by the idea of design?" And so on.
So you were asking yourself.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)The other thing that was most fundamental to me was the question, "What is art?" I was immune to art, for better or worse. I was immune to art, for better or worse, so I did not feel that art was great because it was art, or that Picasso was great because he was a Picasso. Rather, I think I was thinking in terms of the impact it had on me. Even if I thought a work of art was great, I would look at how I could interpret it. As I repeated this process, I began to realize that I may have been looking at the process of creation in the wrong way, and that originality may be found in a slightly different place. You are trying to verbalize each piece of work, aren't you?
well fieldDid you start doing so when you started designing?
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)No, before I started designing, I was more quarrelsome to the world.
I can't imagine that from Mr. Mihara now.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)When you start doing design, you start to learn from your own work. Your own work becomes a teacher and starts to speak to you, and a philosophy is born from it, and so on. That's a good way to learn. . after doing it for a few seasons, the first language and the current language will change.
In the past, he said, they were sharp anyway.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)You resented and denied all the adults in the world. I thought that everything I was thinking was just a quote from a book or a movie, or something that I had received from other people. Even the things I said were black and white were imprinted on me, and even my feelings of happiness and frustration were planted in my mind. I was a little crazy at the time, it was around the time I finally got accepted to art school after two years, but I was not depressed, not obstructive, not autistic, but logically going in that direction. I wanted to know the truth, so I made music, techno, but I started liking deeper and deeper sounds, and for two hours I listened to a single-note music called bleep sound and thought, "Wow, it feels good" (laughs). . It was a little dangerous, wasn't it? . I'm a lot more forgiving now. I let my assistants do a little bit, and I let everyone do various brands.
Certainly there are many lines, such as MYne , .
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I made sure to teach them my DNA and let them do whatever they wanted to do. So, it is totally different from when Ino-kun was here.
well fieldI'm jealous of "Mine" and so on.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)There are some lines that hardly ever speak.
well fieldThat in itself is already amazing, I think.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). because I've grown up (laughs). . but I feel that branding is less necessary now than it was in our time. However, I think we need to work on it more to give it a bloodier feel. . That's not easy to do, though.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). come to think of it, brand image shoots have changed over the years. There are a lot of shoots that don't show much clothing. Before, it was difficult to do that. The "Doublet" look doesn't have any close-up shots (where you can see the full body styling). It's almost like image cuts.
well fieldYes, it is.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)However, most brands will take shots that show the styling in a restrained manner, but due to Ino-kun's personality, I thought he would have said, "No, let's just go with the image. I thought he would have said, "No, let's just go with the image.
well fieldThat's right. I didn't take it (laughs).
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)The other day I saw a maison brand that didn't show any clothes at all, and I thought that kind of thing was very fashionable. I thought it was fashionable, and I don't mean that in a bad way. I think fashion should be frivolous to begin with. We who make it are not frivolous. As I mentioned earlier, we are essentially like researchers, and it is like solving a kind of riddle. It's like trying to take the cruelest part of an idea that pops into my head and make it clearer. But when you keep doing that, sometimes you want to do something a little out of the ordinary. 18AW "Doublet" had a trench coat with a toy attached, didn't it? I felt that I could understand that. I want to relax a little bit.
2018AW _doublet
well fieldYes . It's a lightweight.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). but when I make something like that, people say, "Oh, I was thinking of doing that, too. I was often told that too. I used to say to myself, "If that's what you think, go ahead and do it.
There should be more respect for turning 0 into 1.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). Also, Ino-kun, I was reminded recently how good you are at graphics.
well field. It's just a "tracing".
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Well . . but there is always a graphic source. . We don't pay attention to them anymore, do we? Like that Fat Master card, for example,
well fieldI thought if I made three circles, it would be okay (laughs).
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Taboos are very important, but it is more difficult to find taboos nowadays, and I feel that people who do copying and boot-like things are more likely to show everyone the boundaries of what is taboo. We had a bit of a problem with that too (laughs).
well fieldThat's the one I did.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I haven't learned my lesson at all.
well fieldAt that time, Mr. Mihara was very generous. I was saved a lot.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor). we're talking about what you think of as intellectual property rights. Because if you start saying that, why can't Tom Sachs sue McDonald's? . . I think you can't look at this as art. Art and fashion are about rebelling against boundaries, including borders. So, I would like you to collaborate with a very twisted place.
well fieldNo , on the contrary I would like to work with a very straight forward place.
I'm looking forward to it . It is truly in the spirit of "SUBLIME meets ridiculous".
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Is there anything else you would like to ask? I don't think people read about serious things about creation (laughs).
No, no, no, you've read this far (laughs).
well fieldI'm sorry I didn't have much to say .
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)I was the only one talking, wasn't I? But, Ino-kun, you were very attentive today. I talk a lot more when we are drinking.
well fieldI don't think so. . but I felt comfortable listening to Mr. Mihara today, and it made me nostalgic.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)What I'm saying hasn't changed. It's just that we're changing the way we do things.
well fieldListening to him again, I felt that I am looser than Mr. Mihara . Also, the philosophy I heard today is only for Mr. Mihara.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)That is true. On the contrary, I can't follow your philosophy.
well fieldYes, I would like to see an archive exhibition of [YASUHIRO MIHARA]. Also, I was thinking today that I would like to see an exhibition of the archives of "YASUHIRO MIHARA.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)We don't keep an archive (laughs). (Laughs.) I don't think we keep any clothes, except for a few shoes.
well fieldYou could borrow it or something. It would be nice to have the owner's name on it.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)Yes, that's right. . but at some point, I realized that there would be nothing left when I died.
well fieldNo, no.
three primary virtues: valour, wisdom and benevolence (valor)But I think this interview helped you understand how pop and deep you are, Mr. Ino. You do pop things in terms of stories , but you are actually deep.
I was able to convey the message well enough. Thank you very much for your long time today , and I hope to see you again in the near future!