Tokyo's vintage clothing scene is still going strong, with a number of prominent stores opening one after another in various areas, some of which are far from the fierce battlegrounds of Harajuku and Koenji, and are known only to those in the know. This time, we will be joined by Takahiro Nakajima, a stylist well versed in a variety of genres from vintage clothing to outdoor, tactical, and furniture, as our navigator, and will also visit four notable stores that participate in Houyhnhnm's, an antique mall specializing in vintage clothing. We visited four of the stores participating in "Houyhnhnm's," an antique mall specializing in vintage clothing.
Born in Akita Prefecture in 1973. A stylist active in a variety of media, mainly men's magazines, he has a considerable knowledge of vintage clothing, having worked for "Boon," a magazine that created a huge vintage clothing craze in the 1990s. Wearing a flashy hunting vest from "10-X," which he recently acquired, he went on a vintage hunt!
SHOP 01_BRACKET
If you are looking for rare European vintage, this is the place to go in Oku-Shibuya.
Located in a corner of the alleyway leading from Tokyu Bunka Mura to Yoyogi-Hachiman, commonly known as "Oku-Shibuya," Bracket's main attraction is European military and workwear, especially from the UK. Nakajima, a regular customer of the store, was ready to be among the first to stock up on goods.
Owner Mr. Iida, who originally worked at the famous "Jantique" store in Nakameguro for 10 years, opened the store in 2016 when he became independent. He selects mainly rugged garments such as work and military garments from both the U.S. and Europe, and has many apparel-related customers. It is one of the most noteworthy stores that you must keep an eye on if you stick to vintage rather than so-called regular vintage clothing.
We also saw several motorcycle coats, one of the most popular Eurovintage items.
Bracket" has a wide variety of military goods from European countries. Mr. Nakajima immediately started shopping for military pants.
Vintage clothing from Europe, such as British, German, and French vintage clothing, has been a hot topic among vintage clothing lovers for the past few years. Trench and stainless steel collars from Burberry and Aquascutum in particular seem to have ignited this trend, but personally, I'm interested in military and work items that I haven't seen before," says Nakajima.
The store is crammed with secondhand clothing of good quality. Shirts purchased in Europe are lined up on the racks in the back.
Trainers shoes such as German and British military. We have them in mint condition from deadstock.
The store is also well-stocked with antique accessories. One of the editors said she was particularly interested in the desk calendar, which she would like to have on her desk at work.
The majority of American vintage clothing has already been talked about, and even if it is rare, most of it has not yet been seen. On the other hand, in European vintage clothing, there are still many fresh items, from vintage to regular," says Nakajima, adding that the name of the store, "Bracket," which means "brackets" in printing terms, is filled with Iida's desire to "select only what I honestly think is good, without being conscious of the name. The name "Bracket," which means "bracket" in Japanese, is filled with Mr. Iida's desire to "select only what I honestly think is good without being conscious of the name. As Mr. Nakashima says, "I want to select only what I think is good without thinking about the name." His wide-ranging selection was impressive, including current military trainers from various countries, prewar French work, American vintage clothing such as denim and one-up shirts, and small items such as pins and souvenirs.
Even the colorful suspenders hung haphazardly on the floor are a picture in the tasteful interior.
Mr. Nakajima talks with Ms. Iida while looking at a pair of Ventile pants. We don't see many pants," he said. Are they military?
Owner Iida concluded by objectively describing his own aesthetic sense, "I still personally find things interesting when absolute standards of value have not yet been established.
We have been buying in Europe for the past few times, so naturally our selection is mainly European, but we would like to focus on American vintage clothing in the future as well. Since I work alone, the store is closed during the buying period, so please check the website when you visit. Stay tuned for more developments at "Bracket" in the future.
NAKAJIMA'S PICK UP 01
Reversible wool and brown duck.
70's unknown brand ¥10,000+TAX
This over-poncho, purchased in the U.S., is reversible between check wool and brown duck. It is rare to find a men's stand collar without a hood. There is no tag, so I don't know the brand, but I guess it was made in the '70s, judging from the zipper and the like. I'm a sucker for peculiar items like ponchos (laughs).
NAKAJIMA'S PICK UP 02
Jackets are still rare, but pants are not.
80's Bentile ¥17,500+TAX
The pants are made of Bentyl cotton, which was developed by Talbot Weaving, a fabric manufacturer based in Lancashire, England, in the 1930s as a waterproof cotton for military use, and has since become one of the most popular materials in the United Kingdom. We often see jackets made of this material, but pants made of it are really rare. The zips are made of Opti, which is typical of the British military.
NAKAJIMA'S PICK UP 03
The real thing, like a boot product.
90's Gore-Tex ¥8,000+TAX
The large duffel bag using Gore-Tex, the original waterproof and breathable material developed by WL Gore & Associates, Inc. in the 1970s, is one of several dead stock items that were secured during a previous purchase in the U.S. "It's interesting how the large tag proudly proclaims the material, like a boot item," says Mr. Kato. The large tag on the bag that proudly proclaims the material is interesting, as if it were a boot item. It might be good for leasing on rainy days.
Open until midnight. I want to take my time after work to look around.
It is about a 10-minute walk from Ikenoue Station on the Keio Inokashira Line. The name of the store, "Hagre", stands quietly in front of the bus stop along Awashima-dori. The store used to carry both men's and women's wear, but one year ago, the women's wear was consolidated into another store, and this store now carries only men's wear. It is open until midnight, so Mr. Nakajima often drops by after work.
Since opening in 2007, the shop has consistently purchased items four times a year. The owner, Mr. Hanada, selects what he finds interesting at any given time, without being particular about the age or brand. In addition to vintage outdoor and work clothes from the past, the store also carries current domestic brands such as SEMOH and SOLARIS HATMAKER&Co.
On the rack just inside the store are flannel gowns on sale.
Is this material leather?" (A leather bag is a material that is used to make leather goods. Mr. Nakajima immediately found something he was interested in.
As I recall, about 10 years ago, I found it while driving home late at night. I remember being amazed at the quality of the place, even though there were no stores around. A few years later, I visited Hagre for a project for "Huinamu," and I got the impression that the layout was even cleaner than it was then," says Nakajima.
Good quality vintage clothing neatly displayed in the store. On the wall is a Patagonia super alpine!
In the background is the ever-popular "Browns" beach vest.
Boldly cut off reverse weave. This is also an interesting characteristic of old clothes.
Although the shop is purposely kept away from the fierce competition, the knowledge and sensitivity of the owner, Mr. Hanada, is no less than that of a well-known store. In addition, it should be noted that all items are in excellent condition. The selection is unique, ranging from classic items such as flight jackets from World War II and shells and fleeces from Patagonia's golden age, to more unusual items. Don't miss items other than vintage clothing, such as the original remake model of dead stock black denim with pleats, sublimated to today's style.
Speakers mounted on the ceiling of the industrial store. Each and every one of these things shows a sense of style.
Ms. Nakajima says she usually comes to the store on her way home because it is open until late. Hanada-san and I talked about a new women's store in Shimokitazawa.
The restaurant has undergone several renovations, but the retro-futuristic sound system on the counter and the atmosphere of an adult's hideout are still there.
We select only what we think is interesting at the moment, at our own pace, without being attached to any particular age or brand of vintage clothing. We are open until midnight, so even if you are on your way home from work, please take a peek at our slightly unusual location," says owner Hanada. It is well worth the trip.
NAKAJIMA'S PICK UP 01
Hunting vests from the custom-made era.
10's unknown brand ¥38,000+TAX
A work vest circa early 20th century, set up in a rather heavy brown duck. It has game pockets on the back, so it could be considered hunting, but we can also see leather loops on the front body to secure rods and nets, so it could also be fishing, I suppose. Either way, we think it's a made-to-order item, not a ready-to-wear one."
NAKAJIMA'S PICK UP 02
A brand that is always on my mind because of my roots.
00s Polo Ralph Lauren ¥18,000+TAX
This mid-length sports jacket in nubuck, a material as soft and comfortable to the touch as deerskin, comes from the prestigious Ralph Lauren brand. I've always liked something, and when I picked it up I often found it to be Ralph Lauren," he said. In the end, my roots and tastes are probably concentrated here."
NAKAJIMA'S PICK UP 03
Reproduction of Nazi army camouflage in film costumes.
00's unknown brand ¥12,000+TAX
The pullover splinter smock is typical European detail work. At first glance it looks like a Nazi army rain camo pattern, but it's more like a costume used in the filming of the 2014 movie Fury. The through-pocket design makes me think it's a reproduction of an over-smock for rainy days."
Although the new store opened last year next to the landmark "LL Bean," it is actually a relocated and renovated vintage store that is well-known in Kichijoji. Nakajima-san, who said, "It's been a long time since I've been to Kichijoji itself," was, of course, very interested in this first visit.
Originally a two-floor vintage store also located at the south entrance, it was relocated and renewed last October. The ratio of men's and women's wear is exactly half as it was before. As the mother company is also engaged in wholesale business, the range of the store is very wide. The sense of juxtaposition of vintage and regular items at the same value is reminiscent of a select store.
Check out the table in the center first. The spacious store allows you to enjoy shopping at your leisure.
A shelf next to the table displays small items; the NASA cap and bandana are of particular interest.
Before opening its brick-and-mortar store in 2014, "Dracena" had been operating a secondhand clothing wholesale business under the same name for many years, and is one of the most prominent stores in Kichijoji, where secondhand clothing stores have been mushrooming in recent years. The name of the store is derived from the scientific name of the tree of happiness.
The men's floor is located at the back of the store. A well-balanced selection of everything from trendy 90's to high street vintage.
The torso is wearing a Monkees band T-shirt. The American comic book style illustration is cute!
A clean store with white as its base color. The clothes are easy to see because they are hung with room to spare.
Although women's wear and men's wear used to be separated on each floor, "Recently, we have many customers and couples who look at all products regardless of gender," says owner Suzuki, "so we have concentrated all items on a single floor. First of all, the space itself is spacious and easy to look at (laughs). Even if it is a regular item for our generation, for the younger generation it is vintage, even if it is from the 90s. And there are also many oddities that you won't find in vintage clothing stores," says Nakajima.
Vintage clothes hanging on chains. Wall-to-wall displays are fun to look at.
Mr. Suzuki, the owner, and Mr. Nakajima are chatting. There is another "Dracena" in the neighborhood, as well as an affiliate restaurant, Little Brothers.
With about 10 buyers stationed in the U.S. and Canada, product turnover is extremely fast, and the most appealing feature of the lineup is that it varies from pre-1950s vintage denim to post-1990s advertising and everyday apparel, in the best sense of the word.
We have a wide range of customers, from those in their 60s to teens, and we select items that meet their expectations while taking into account the latest trends. If requested, we can move items from our online store to the actual store for customers to try on, so please feel free to contact us with any questions you may have.
NAKAJIMA'S PICK UP 01
A luxurious patchwork of prestigious names performing together.
80's Special Handmade Anita ¥30,000+TAX
The remake coat, a patchwork of Levi's and Lee's denim, is a luxurious collaboration made possible only by handmade. The denim used for the base is from the 70s and 80s, so we can assume that they were made at least in the same decade or later. They are very handmade, but they have tags, so they must have been sold."
NAKAJIMA'S PICK UP 02
A realistic drip that is not arbitrary.
70's Lee ¥7,750+TAX
The Chetopa twill work shirt developed in Chetopa, Kansas in the 50's by the famous Lee company has realistic paint drips. It would be interesting to tie it up as much as you dare. You can tell at a glance that it's not made up (laughs). It must have been used by painters or garage workers back then."
NAKAJIMA'S PICK UP 03
The half-zip is fresh again now.
00's Stormtech ¥6,750+TAX
This pullover blouson with side zip is from a Canadian outdoor apparel brand established in 1977. I have seen this type of blouson with a full-zip or crew neck, but a half-zip may be rare. I like the peach skin-like material. I like to use it in a slightly over-fitting style."
Dracaena
1F Nanai-bashi Garden, 1-16-1 Kichijoji-Minami-cho, Musashino-shi, Tokyo
0422-24-7572
12:00 - 20:00 12:00 - 21:00 (Sat.)
without a holiday e-dracaena.com/ furugi.com/
SHOP 04_hallelu
Proposing a new lifestyle with military gear from various countries.
Mr. Nakajima, who is an old acquaintance of the owner, Mr. Kase, finally headed for "Harrell," a well-known store for vintage clothing lovers, located in an alley about a 5-minute walk from the east exit of Nakameguro Station. Here, he is looking for rare military items from various countries. He also told us that he has absolute confidence in the shop's unique aesthetic sense.
It opened in 2013 with the desire to provide new encounters by daring to handle two different elements and thoughts, such as casual and high-end, new and second-hand, at the same value. Under the concept of "Dual Thinking," this popular lifestyle store offers a wide range of products from apparel to sundries, centering on old and new military garments.
First, check out the accessories around the cash register. Military items as well as Tiffany & Co. accessories and college rings are lined up.
The assortment of shoes displayed along with military goods and clothing is one of the strengths of "Harrell's". If you look closely, you can find vintage Adidas!
After many years in the vintage clothing industry, the owner, Mr. Kase, decided to focus on military items from various countries when he started his own store. He says, "Nowadays, many brands release military motifs regardless of genre, but when I started collecting, there was not yet such a wide variety, and I myself wanted to handle original items designed with a purpose.
Military items are hung on the racks. The interior of Harrell's looks like a military surplus store.
The A-1 jacket has enjoyed steady popularity in recent years. The backpack next to it is also an excellent chair.
Vintage denim is also on the ceiling. Products are displayed everywhere, so take a look around every corner.
As Nakajima says, "It is not just a secondhand clothing store that specializes in military garments, but also proposes a new type of lifestyle based on the military. As Nakashima says, "Harrell's is a pioneer of lifestyle shops, offering not only apparel such as flight jackets and BDUs, but also cutlery, kochelle, and other daily utensils in genuine military spec.
The corner in front of the cash register, lined with American antique goods. You can't help but look at them as if you were a child.
Owners Kase and Nakajima-san say they are old acquaintances. They are researching the latest military goods.
Kase-san's wealth of knowledge and love of military affairs can also be found on his official blog, where he writes about each item in meticulous detail.
I believe that essential designs that are not influenced by fads and fashions, such as military designs, are my specialty and the starting point of Harrell. Compared to when we first opened, we have more apparel, but I would like to go back to the basics and enhance our merchandise and tools.
NAKAJIMA'S PICK UP 01
The hand-stitched repair is lovely.
60's Pennies ¥17,800+TAX
Civilian model that appears to be based on the US Air Force "B-9" flight jacket developed for the belly heavy zone during WWII. Original from JC Penney, a major mass retailer. The rustic repair on the cuffs is cute. The original is expensive, but the civilian version is reasonably priced.
NAKAJIMA'S PICK UP 02
Note the piping on the pockets.
60's Colt ¥45,800+TAX
This single jacket is made of fine horsehide leather from the original label of Canadian leather brand Craftsport LTD. We were attracted by the modern design, such as the flannel liner and navy ball-rimmed pockets, which cannot be found in American-made leather jackets of the same era.
NAKAJIMA'S PICK UP 03
It will be useful for gardening and camping.
00's Brand name ¥5,400+ TAX
This worker's apron, made for construction workers within the U.S. military, is a dead stock from 2007. It has a resin coating and is water repellent, making it ideal for outdoor use. It's compact and easy to maneuver, and it has lots of pockets, so if it were me, I'd probably use it for camping."
hallelu
Takano Building 1F, 1-19-1 Kamimeguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo
03-5734-1946
1:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
non-scheduled holiday hallelu.com
Houyhnhm's, an antique mall on EC, is participated by the four leading stores we visited this time. Other unique vintage clothing stores line the streets, and interesting items are being uploaded daily. If you are interested, please check them out as well!
