Shingo Arai of BEAMS talks about his style of tennis and sneakers. And Sergio Tacchini, who wears 6.
Sergio Tacchini" is a sportswear brand from Italy, known as a favorite of many of the world's greatest tennis players. With the recent rise of the tennis style in fashion and the collaboration with select stores and sneaker brands, the sneakers of Sergio Tacchini have been the focus of much attention. Shingo Arai, a well-known buyer at BEAMS and the next key man in the sneaker culture, explains the appeal of Sergio Tacchini and how to enjoy sneakers, while the store staff and six other staff members show how to wear the sneakers. We also have six shop staff members, including one who says that ordinary sneakers are no fun at all, show us how they incorporate sneakers into their outfits.
He has been involved in various projects as a famous store manager at BEAMS T stores for many years, and was appointed as a buyer of men's casual wear at BEAMS in 2017. He is deeply familiar with tennis and sneaker culture, and his collections and special-order models based on his unique ideas and sense of style are commonly known as "Arai Kikaku" and have many fans both inside and outside the company. He is also known as the biggest sneaker freak in the industry. In addition, he was an intercollegiate tennis player during his college years.
The use of patterns and designs are very current.
When did you first become aware of the Sergio Tacchini brand, Mr. Arai?
new wellOriginally, I had been playing tennis since I was a small child, so in my case, I recognized it not from a fashion perspective, but as sports gear at the time. That is exactly why Pete Sampras, who is also a hero of mine, used to wear it all over his body, and it was a brand I admired. At that time, John McEnroe, Martina Hingis, and others were also using the brand, and anyone who was familiar with tennis would have at least known the name of the brand.
I see that eminent legends were patrons of the brand. Do you have any impressions of the items that were released at that time?
new well. It's the use of color, isn't it? There were many items with color schemes that were too eccentric for the general tennis wear of the time, but they also had a certain elegance that was typical of the Italian brand. At that time, American culture was at its peak in casual fashion, and I myself was not aware of the brand's appeal, but now I see the gimmick of using patterns and the design of the turn-ups, etc., and I am reminded that it is a good brand. I feel like I'm rediscovering what a good brand it is.
From there, how did you come to recognize Sergio Tacchini as a fashion statement?
new wellI guess it was when I saw the capsule collection with Gosharabchinsky that was released two years ago. When I saw that product, I thought, "They beat me to it! and I was convinced that it was a brand that could also be used in the fashion world. However, I myself have always naturally incorporated tennis wear and gear into my daily fashion, so perhaps I subconsciously saw tennis wear brands in parallel with fashion.
One thing I was particular about in the special order .
Speaking of Mr. Arai, I'm also impressed by the fact that he is an icon of the sneakers that BEAMS is proud of.
new wellYes, I do. Sneakers have always been close to my life since the time I first became aware of fashion. I still own nearly 1,000 pairs at home, and my love for sneaker culture is as strong as anyone else's. .
It was this background that led to the exclusive collaboration between BEAMS and Sergio Tacchini last year, wasn't it?
new wellYes . I also became a buyer two years ago, and became involved in various special order projects. Last year, when the relationship between sports and fashion was beginning to become closer, I was approached at a really good time. However, at that time, I also presented one condition. That was that "BEAMS" would be the first collaboration in Japan. This was the most important thing for the company and for me, who has known Sergio Tacchini for a long time. I believe that pioneer value is the most important aspect of collaboration in the fashion industry.
What kind of discussions took place from there?
new wellI have known Sergio Tacchini for a long time, which is why I came up with various ideas. Last year's special order was a color-specific men's model called "PRIME SHOT," which was so well received both inside and outside the company that we decided to do it again this year, but we wanted to make it more of a surprise than last time. I came up with the idea of rearranging the "GS TOP," the signature model of a female tennis player named Gabriella Sabatini, for men's wear. Normally, it would be a hurdle for any sports brand to make a special order from a mold, but by repeatedly expressing my passion, we were able to create a completely new model that had never existed before.
This is truly a buyer's story. What exactly is being arranged?
new wellThe most important point of the special order is the docking of the men's "PRIME SHOT" sole onto the women's "GS TOP" model. . To be honest, this was the most difficult part. The functional part is also a delicate detail, so the brand was very cautious about whether or not it would be possible to convert only the sole. However, we were able to clear this obstacle by working together as if we were both developing a new model, and we were able to complete the pair that we had longed for. The "PRIME SHOT" sole makes the sneaker feel like a court shoe and allows you to play tennis without stress, so I think it is a sneaker that I can recommend to tennis players.
This gradient of color is also fresh.
new wellThis color was actually a common trend in tennis wear in the 90s, too. . It was the inspiration for the color of a signature model worn by a certain famous tennis player. I can't say it publicly, but if someone who knows the player sees it, they will notice that it brings back memories, or maybe it was inspired by that model. I can't say it publicly, but I think that people who know the model will notice that it is nostalgic or inspired by that model. Also, the sprayed-on texture is the part I was most particular about. It's a small detail, though (laughs).
Even the texture! Mr. Arai's love of tennis is evident in this pair as a story, isn't it?
new wellPioneer value is important, but the story behind the collaboration is also important. Otherwise, it will just be a topic of conversation.
Tennis dressing to fashion.
. That's right. First of all, you chose the white color for the inline model, is there any reason for that?
new wellPartly because I simply like white sneakers, but also because when I was playing tennis, I would get angry if I wore shoes with too many flashy colors (laughs). (Laughs.) Because it was a gentleman's sport, we had to put duct tape over the excessively designed or colored parts of our shoes during matches. Because of these vestiges, even now, white sneakers are my basic choice for tennis shoes. I also value the manner of wearing white sneakers, which is to keep them fresh.
I see . It was also a little fresh to see the setup together again.
new well. This is also a remnant from my tennis playing days. When I was a student, I always wore a uniform when I went overseas to play tennis, and when I saw Wimbledon, everyone always dressed in formal wear, such as blazer style. So, it fits well in my mind. I think this is what it means to incorporate tennis culture into fashion.
On the other hand, how about wearing this season's special order model with BEAMS?
new wellI used to play tennis in this style when I was mainly practicing, so I was inspired by the styling of that time. It is my absolute policy to match the color of the sneakers with the color of the clothes, and I think that pairing is where my sense of style really comes out. I think you can see from this outfit that tennis items are easier to incorporate into everyday wear than other major sports.
SERGIO TACCHINI x BEAMS sneakers, cap, shorts , paper boy x BEAMS hoodie
. In fact, seeing this outfit, I feel as if I can further appreciate the appeal of the model that Mr. Arai has specially ordered.
new wellYes, that's right. Sneakers are a fashion item, so rather than talking about the appeal of sneakers by themselves, I think they should convey a person's style with the way they are worn. In that sense, Sergio Tacchini is also a popular apparel brand, so I wanted to convey the total package. I would be happy if more people become aware of the existence of "Sergio Tacchini" through these special-order models.
How to wear Sergio Tacchini?
Here are some snapshots of styling using two of Sergio Tacchini's inline models.
PRIME SHOT II
The successor to the PRIME SHOT, which has reigned as the brand's iconic model since its early days in the 1970s. In addition to its tough form, the tennis shoe has perfect functionality to provide a comfortable fit and feel. The iconic brand logo on the side of the shoe is a striking feature of the design. Available in white, red, and green colors that resemble the Italian flag. ¥13,000+TAX
TOP PLAY
With a slightly sharper face than the standard "PRIME SHOT" series, this pair is split in popularity with the same model. Its greatest feature is its retro-style color scheme. The unique use of color and balance, which can be said to be the quintessence of the brand, gives new possibilities for styling. There are two color variations. A white-based model is also available for ladies. ¥14,000+TAX
Kohei Otanari (age 31) TOXGO Staff
Hoodie by Better™ , pants by STONE ISLAND
What kind of brand is Sergio Tacchini for you, Mr. Otanari, who loves sneakers?
I was a member of the tennis club when I was in school, so I am very familiar with this brand. They changed my image of tennis shoes, and at that time, all the hot seniors were wearing them. Now, I have the impression that sneaker freaks whom I respect are the first to take notice of the brand.
What was the key to your outfit of the day, weaving those sneakers in and out?
. Lately, I have been interested in casuals' (Thatcher era working class) culture, so I made a conscious effort to match with Italian brands that are popular with casuals. Sergio Tacchini is a perfect match for Stone Island.
How was the comfort of the shoes?
I usually wear the special-order model with a select store that was released last year, and they are of course comfortable, but this model has even better hold and is a stress-free pair.
Ryuzo Ozaki, age 27 Store Manager and Buyer, Styles
Jacket and pants by Styles , nylon parka by Stone Island , hat , glasses by pine
Why did you start working at your current place of employment, Mr. Ozaki?
When I was a child, my father always brought me sneakers as souvenirs from his business trips abroad. Sneakers have been a part of my life ever since I can remember, and I still love them. . So naturally, I wanted to work in a sneaker-themed store, so I joined the company. Styles" has not only sneakers, but also sophisticated apparel and sundry items, and the fact that there are many customers with a high sense of fashion is also appealing.
. I see, you are a genuine sneaker enthusiast, aren't you? By the way, is there a pair you are currently targeting?
Right now, I'm in the mood for sneakers that use neon colors and evoke the atmosphere of the 90's. . The outfit of the day also incorporated neon-colored sneakers, a nylon parka, and a hat to accentuate the rave-like mood of this season's swinging style.
Do you have any personal rules that you are conscious of when wearing sneakers on a daily basis?
Pairing colors with outfits. I usually consider color to be the most important factor when choosing sneakers. As a sneaker enthusiast, I consider it a must-have manner.
Ryo Handa (age 33) Director of LINKS
TONE jacket, pants, USED knit cap, AiE shirt, kearny sunglasses
Mr. Handa, you have seen a lot of sneakers, so how do you feel about Sergio Tacchini's sneakers?
. While high-tech sneakers are all the rage nowadays, I like the exquisite low-tech look. I also liked the balance of design and color. They may not be a major brand, but nowadays, if you see someone wearing them, you will say, "Wow! I think they are worth a try for those who want to stay one step ahead of the trends.
Do you see tennis shoes like Sergio Tacchini's becoming mainstream in the future?
Recently, the rise of outdoor and trail shoes has been noticeable, but behind the scenes, I have the impression that the sporting mood is also growing stronger. Tennis shoes, in particular, are universal and the best type of shoes for street wear, so they are easy to adopt.
What is the key to dressing for this day?
To complement the sneakers, I used black as the base color. Also, I wanted to create an age-appropriate atmosphere, so I dared to combine a set-up with a shirt and dress it down moderately while keeping it classy.
Why did you start your current store, which has a full line of sneakers, including rare models?
The sneaker boom of the 1990s had a big impact on me, and I was completely absorbed in the sneaker culture.
Mr. Kawasaka, who has been running a sneaker store for many years, what is your image of the "Sergio Tacchini" brand?
I have the impression that the brand is more linked to hip-hop culture and street fashion than its original background as tennis wear . In particular, the lineup of sneakers based on tennis shoes will stick with sneaker fans with an expert eye.
How did you feel about the design and comfort of the models you wore this time?
. The moderate volume and clean color scheme are very nice. As with tennis shoes, the ankle area is held firmly in place, giving me a sense of security. Next time, I would like to try on the special-order model planned by Mr. Arai, the buyer of BEAMS, with whom I have a close relationship.
Akiko Shiota (age 25) BILLY'S ENT Shibuya Staff
USED jacket, Robert P.miller innerwear, F/CE pants
What got you hooked on sneakers, Mr. Ushioda?
When I was a student, I was right in the middle of the sneaker boom, and I happened to see one of my favorite artists wearing some really cool sneakers, which I imitated. I found myself naturally starting to work at my current store, and this year is my third year.
What were your styling preferences for the day?
While incorporating spring-like colors, I chose pants that go well with sneakers and matched them in a classy style. I am usually very conscious of the balance between pants and sneakers, and I always try to incorporate one trendy color.
If you were to rearrange the model you wore this time, in your own way, what design and functions would you incorporate?
Sneakers from sports brands often tend to be too sporty or menswear-like, so we would like to add a design for ladies that can be easily worn by women in an arrangement. Furthermore, we would like to use mesh material for the coming season to make them breathable and lightweight, and to make them more comfortable for the feet. I am waiting for such a selfish pair! (Laughs)
Risa Sasaoka (age 31) ROSE BUD Press
CREOLME jacket , Supreme t-shirt , ZARA dress
Mr. Sasaoka, please tell us about the image you have of the Sergio Tacchini brand.
. I think the brand has a close connection with tennis culture, but at the same time, it has an Italian atmosphere and a sense of luxury. Looking at the lineup of items, I felt that both apparel and sneakers are easy to match for young girls as well as boys.
What are your impressions of the models who wore them on this day and how did they dress?
I coordinated a moderately shiny satin dress with a vintage-style mountain parka and sneakers, as I usually do. The sporty sneakers are a great accent to the seemingly girly outfit, and I think I will be wearing this kind of outfit more and more this year.
Are there any sneaker styles you are interested in this season?
I am even more interested in colorful styles than last year. I think that the use of multicolored outfits will become mainstream this season as well. I also like the revival of the early 2000s, not the 90s. I think this is an era that our generation can embody.