Lecture 5: Takashi Abe
If it's the same tote bag, I definitely prefer this one."

40's-50's CANVAS TOOL BAG

section (of an orange, etc.)The first is a canvas tote bag .' . It's from around the '40s or '50s. L.L. Bean's "Deluxe Tote" (a three-tone tote bag with reinforced handles and taped handles released by L.L. Bean in the '80s) has recently been selling for 60,000 yen or so. I would have preferred this one.

mountain fieldIt's definitely better this way. But the stuff itself is not there anymore at all.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Stencils are cool too.

section (of an orange, etc.)Yup . And I also like the sewn part of the handle. The handles on L.L. Bean and Bell System bags (Bell System, an American telecommunications company, used to make tote-type tool bags for workers until around the 1960s) are sewn from the body to the bottom, but I personally prefer the old-fashioned way of sewing the handles. Personally, I like the old-fashioned way better.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)You're right, the handle and body are sewn together in one shot between the handle and the body, and that technique itself is quite a challenge.

chestnut fieldAlso, in recent years, the threads are made of synthetic fibers, and the texture of the canvas has more of an atmosphere of the old ones.

section (of an orange, etc.). yes, I agree. But why is only the "deluxe tote" so overpriced?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). probably because it was only deployed for a short period of time. . in fact, it seems that it was only in the catalog for a few years.

section (of an orange, etc.). yes, I know. And verticals seem to be the most expensive these days.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)It seems so.

Fujiwara:Where did you get this?

section (of an orange, etc.)It's a restaurant in Harajuku called "Berberzine" (laughs).

mountain fieldBut it really doesn't show up, the bags around here. I think you got a good deal.

section (of an orange, etc.)Yes, it is. There is a plain type on eBay right now , but it has $500 on it.

Fujiwara:Heh . How much did you get it for, Abe-san?

section (of an orange, etc.)You know (laughs).

If I'm going to go to all that trouble, I want to choose something different."

HEADLIGHT DENIM JACKET

section (of an orange, etc.)The second is a second type of "Headlight. Like the "Deluxe Tote," you can always get a Levi's 507XX for a reasonable price, but I wanted to choose something different.

mountain fieldThis is good. I haven't really seen it lately, though.

section (of an orange, etc.)I have tried on the "507XX" a few times, but the length was too short for my long torso, so I always ended up giving it up. In this respect, this model is slightly longer than the "507XX" so it is easier to wear, and above all, there is less chance of me looking like someone else.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). It's true that they are a little long. And the workmanship of Headlight and Carhartt (Headlight was merged with Carhartt in the 1960s) at that time was extremely careful, wasn't it? I also like the vertical cankles.

chestnut fieldYou can see that it is not simply an imitation of " Levi's ".

Fujiwara:, including the double-stitched collar, which is typical of the work brand, and the details are really carefully finished.

section (of an orange, etc.)Of course you're right, but the ball count itself is less than "507XX", right?

Fujiwara:Of course .

section (of an orange, etc.)By the way, if you had to put a price on it now, what would it be?

Fujiwara:. the color has faded quite a bit, and it may or may not fetch 100,000.

section (of an orange, etc.). I'm sure it's not like the "507XXEEE" that I just saw. There is no such thing as a "507XXEEE" that costs 1,390,000 yen like the one I just mentioned, so wouldn't it be healthier to look for this one?

mountain fieldSo they don't have the thing itself (laughs).

Fujiwara:Yes, that's right. I am also looking for a denim jacket of a medium-sized brand in a larger size, but I can't seem to find one.

, attracted by the one-of-a-kind details of the gachapoke Filchro."

20's-30's FILSON CLOTHING CRUISER JACKET

section (of an orange, etc.). The third is a jacket by Filclo. Filclo is an abbreviation of "Filson Clothing" (the clothing label of C.C. Filson Co., an outdoor and field sports brand founded in 1897 in Seattle, Washington, U.S.A.), and the name changed to "Filson Garments" in the 40's, so it was probably made in the 30's. I think it was made in the '30s.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)No, it could be 20s .

section (of an orange, etc.)I see. . I've always been interested in the hunting category itself because of its interesting details. I think the red-and-black checked wool melton used in Filcro and Filson's standard Mackinaw cruisers is the most common type, but I've known about the existence of this duck fabric type for a long time, and I've always wanted to have one someday.

mountain fieldDucks are rare. It doesn't come up first.

section (of an orange, etc.)I had owned a red-and-black check from Philcro twice before, but I let it go because I didn't think I would ever wear it again.

Fujiwara:I have the impression that this area is more expensive in the U.S. than in Japan.

chestnut field. Like the fishing jacket mentioned above, this area has always been more popular in the Kansai region.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think this Abe's model would fetch 4 or 5 hundred thousand yen. The tags are hardly worn, and it's not often you can find a gachapoke in this condition and this size. But it's not something you can just look for and find, is it?

mountain field. that's right. Even in the U.S., they put $5,000 or something like that on it without a care in the world. . But I think they deserve to be treated as such. I think it's a heritage item that deserves to be talked about on the same level as Levi's loopless jeans (early jeans without belt loops), and you should keep them without washing or fixing them.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). I'm also afraid of the buttons cracking in the wash.

mountain fieldIf you put it in a net and wash it, it won't matter.

section (of an orange, etc.)Which is it (laughs)?

I've never seen another Lonely Elephant with dots."

VINTAGE BANDANA

section (of an orange, etc.). The last one, as always, is a vintage bandana. The ones I brought this time are all trunked-down (bottom-nosed) "Elephant Brand," so they are generally multicolored, circa 40's. .

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Is there such a color scheme?

section (of an orange, etc.)Bandanas are usually red and navy, and other color schemes themselves are already rare, but I have carefully selected only those with unusual print patterns and color schemes.

chestnut fieldWas there a name for this one that doesn't have the words "FAST COLOR" and only has an elephant printed on it?

section (of an orange, etc.)I call it the Lonely Elephant, but it has not spread at all (laughs). (Laughs.) This pattern, a western pattern, and a dotted pattern have been confirmed.

Fujiwara:Are you saying that only Mr. Abe has it?

section (of an orange, etc.)I think someone might have one , but I haven't seen it.

mountain fieldI knew Abe's bandana (collection) was amazing.

Fujiwara:Don't you have a catalog of bandanas?

mountain fieldYes, Abe-kun, let's publish a book.

section (of an orange, etc.)Yes, that's right. However, it is not a genre in which there is a clear standard of value, so you can buy the same item at an expensive store for a high price, or at a not-so-expensive store for a price that seems unbeatable to me. If you are going to publish a book, you have to do a certain amount of digging before you publish it.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)That's the interesting part of vintage bandanas , isn't it? There is still a chance, or a possibility, to dig them out.

chestnut fieldIn the case of eBay, if you list an item that is very rare but the seller does not know its value, for example, if it is a bandana, only one rare piece sold for a high price, but the seller does not know why the price was so high, so he or she raises the overall price of the bandana. . This phenomenon can also occur, can't it?

section (of an orange, etc.)Yes, that's right. In fact, when I won a bid for a rare piece, the seller had re-set the starting price for a bandana he had listed separately at a higher price (laugh). (Laughs.) However, cheap items can still be bought for hundreds or thousands of yen, and I think this is one of the "real pleasures of secondhand clothing," as Mr. Yamada says.

It lasted for more than 4 hours, and we even had a few drinks along the way! How was the secondhand clothing discussion with special guests that included a little alcohol? We hope you enjoyed the contents of this talk, which once again revealed the super-geeky eye for selection and the depth of knowledge of the five wise men who are well versed in vintage clothing. However, they are not trying to tell us that "rare is good" or "rare is expensive," but rather they are telling us about their own interpretations and new discoveries that they have made while digging through vintage clothing. Even if the vintage clothes are not worth hundreds of thousands of yen, there are still discoveries in vintage clothes that tickle the heart of clothes lovers.

& Vintage Summit pop-up store at BerBerJin!

As the first part of a collaboration project with & BerBerJin, which opened on Saturday, June 29, a pop-up store will be held with personal items brought by four members of the "Vintage Summit". The event will be held for two days, July 6 (Sat) and 7 (Sun) . The store will be open for two days, Saturday, July 6 (Sat.) and Sunday, July 7 (Sun.), with a limited number of items that have been selected by the four vintage clothing enthusiasts as their personal treasures. The treasures introduced at the Vintage Summit may also be on display! If you like vintage clothing, don't forget to check your schedule book.

& BerBerJin

Address: 3-26-10 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Phone: 03-6384-5929
Hours of operation: 12:00 - 20:00

Vintage Summit Pop-up Store

Dates: Saturday, July 6 and Sunday, July 7

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