Nakamuro：You mentioned "reshop", but you left "BAYCREW'S" once after "EDIFICE", didn't you? And then you came back and launched it right away, right?
Kaneko:That's right. When I was not at BAYCREW'S, a certain Mr. Wada was talking to the company about opening a store for clothes lovers like me, but there was no one to actually do it, so I was approached by him. I thought, "If Mr. Wada told me about this, I would definitely want to do it, since he had helped me out so much.
Nakamuro：I see. Mr. Wada is like The Bay Cruise, isn't he? I see, so that's how it all came about.
Kaneko:In discussing with Mr. Wada about what kind of store to make, I came up with the answer of "a delicatessen. I meant that it would not be a restaurant that sold rice (a standard item). That is how the "reshop" type of store was born.
Nakamuro：Is that an idea that came about because you have seen many things since you left "BAYCREW'S," including during your time at "EDIFICE"?
Kaneko:Hmmm...I guess so. But since I left "BAYCREW'S", I have been away from buying. So when it came time to open the store, I was far removed from the current fashion scene, and it felt like I was starting from scratch. So I may have been bluffing a bit. I said I was going to open a store for people who love clothes and do something that no one else does, but I didn't know what anyone else was doing in the first place.
Nakamuro：I see (laughs).
Kaneko:Yes. But because I didn't know, I had to rely on what was good in me. I guess that is my current buying style. I value the connection between myself and the designer, or the story. It is a way of doing things that starts with my own existence. Because I had blanks, I didn't know what I was doing, so the only thing I could rely on was whether or not I thought it was a good idea.
Nakamuro：But I fell for their bluff.
Kaneko:For those who know about the past "Edifice" days, maybe there was a part of them that was paying attention to the fact that Kaneko was going to create another store, but..,
Nakamuro：It's like a full-blown "I'm so happy.
Kaneko:Yes, but for me, I felt I had to do it anyway. But for my part, I felt I had no choice but to do it anyway.
Nakamuro：And now, "Reshop" is in its 5th year, isn't it? What do you want to express in "Reshop" from now on?
Kaneko:One year ago.I launched an original brand called "LE.This also ties in with the "Edifice" story, but I have Mr. Komori of "COMOLI" working as a supervisor, while I do the planning or come up with the ideas,
Nakamuro：Before that, may I ask you a question? During the "EDIFICE" period, you were the original designer of "EDIFICE", weren't you, Komori-san? Kaneko-san was a buyer at the same time. What was the relationship between the two of you?
Kaneko:Actually, things haven't changed that much since then, but I would often show Komori-san things I had found and he would say, "That's good. Komori-san was the type of designer who created things based on various information and inspirations. We even went abroad together.
Nakamuro：I see. So you have been in such a relationship since then. So that hasn't changed.
Kaneko:That's right. In the beginning, L.E. wanted more people to wear Brooks Brothers' button-down shirts, for example, so we tried making shirts in nine sizes. We talked about what to do next, and we ended up talking about our memories of the "Edifice" days. We would talk about how good it was back then. We talked about that kind of thing all the time. So we decided to make something like that, and for this fall/winter season, we are making items that were memorable for both Komori-san and I during the "EDIFICE" days.
Nakamuro：So those are the items that are lined up here (laughs).
Kaneko:That's right (laughs). (Laughs.) There were many things that were good at the time, but there were always parts that were a bit difficult to make. Then, if I were to make it now, I would change this part a little. That is what this collection is about.
Kaneko:And this one, which might be easily recognizable to the casual observer, is based on a French military "petit bateau. This is a T-shirt with elastic ribs called "milling. There were very few men's sizes available, so we had to fight over them. Even if you could wear them, they would be too tight. We made this T-shirt to remedy that.
Nakamuro：What were the main points you focused on?
Kaneko:The whole place has been completely redesigned, but the first important thing is the color.
Nakamuro：This color is, how should I say it? It's a bit reddish.
Kaneko:We always call it "French blue," but it's more like eggplant than navy blue. We also use much better material than we did back then, so it feels good on the skin and is stretchy. It is also thicker. And the size is also a bit looser. Also, the binders are a little thicker.
LEE] Milled T-shirt ¥6,600+tax each (reshop)
Nakamuro：What about the border over here?
Kaneko:At Edifice, the St. James striped basque shirt was an indispensable item, but boat-neck shirts are embarrassing for people with narrow shoulders like me. I have worn more than a dozen of these shirts, but I thought that if I could make a basque shirt that could do away with that problem, I would wear it a lot.
Nakamuro：I see.
Kaneko:So I researched boat necks and this is what I came up with. After all, it's pretty low in the back, so there's a lot of exposed skin. For some time now, I have always thought that the exposure of men is very uncomfortable.
Nakamuro：I'm sure everyone noticed how uncomfortable it was, but they still wore it.
Kaneko:Yes. I feel like I was holding back somewhere, but I made it so that I could wear it without being so stubborn. So I made the back part straight, because that way less skin is exposed. I also made the shoulders a little narrower. It's a really small detail, but I worked on it after a lot of discussion with the pattern maker.
Nakamuro：The fabric is nice.
Kaneko:It's nice. A little thin, but solid.
Nakamuro：The ones back then were much thicker and harder.
Kaneko:Yes, yes. This one feels great against the skin, and the color is French blue, which I thought was unlikely.
〈LE〉Basque shirt ¥15,400+tax (reshop)
Nakamuro：I see. Oh, it's almost an hour now. I think it's time to start finishing up.
Kaneko:After all, my seven years at "Edifice" are at the root of who I am, and I think that the source of my drawings will always be at "Edifice. I learned a lot from them. It is my starting point.
Nakamuro：By the way, from your point of view, is there any part of today's "EDIFITH" that you can feel back then?
Kaneko:Casual and dress clothes are still in the same store, and work and military clothes are still there. Marine may come and go as you might expect, but the selection of men's classics has not changed.
Nakamuro：Yes, yes, that's right. In summary, the philosophy of "Edifice" is still in Mr. Kaneko as it always has been. Well, I think this is a perfect place to end "E's Genealogy". Mr. Kaneko, do you have any last words?
Kaneko:Yes, we look forward to working with both "reshop" and "edifice" in the future. We would like to make exciting products to meet your expectations. Also, I know that there are times when it is practically difficult to make the old "EDIFICE" products, so I have a feeling that I would like to make up for that with "reshop". So, if you liked "EDIFICE" in the past, you may find something you are interested in at "reshop".
Nakamuro：I see. Thank you very much for your time today!
