BUYER 05 One of the joys of fashion is the "surprise" that can only be experienced by feeling it on the skin.
PROFILE
. Managing Director of "Addiction Adelaide". After graduating from high school, he moved to the U.K. and graduated from the University of the Arts London. 2009, he joined "The Wall", which was founded by his parents. After working as a sales representative, store manager, and buyer at Adicion Adelaide, he became the managing director and buyer.
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. What brands impressed you the most in the images presented at this season's Paris Men's show?
. the most important one is the "Y Project. From a very early stage, I had heard that they were preparing to present their products digitally. The designs are so difficult to wear that they have pictures of models wearing them on the product tags, but the styling was clearly expressed in a single video. The buyers were also well thought out, and if I hadn't seen this, there might have been pieces I wouldn't have bought. After watching the video, we talked in detail with the sales staff through "Zoom" while preparing the part numbers we were interested in on the online platform "Joie".
Y-Project" is starting a new line, isn't it?
They are starting a line called "Evergreen," in which so-called signature shapes are replaced with sustainable fabrics. . They specialize in fashion with innovative designs, but their minds are also on the move. In Europe at the time of the collection, the impact of Corona was becoming more serious with each passing day, and I got the impression that many brands were beginning to think about using their existing archives in anticipation of a situation where they would not be able to produce samples. I understand that Raf Simons is also selling archived clothes in a limited number of stores.
Presented in the Spring/Summer 2021 collection, "Evergreen" is a reinterpretation of iconic archival items sold from the Spring/Summer 17 to Fall/Winter 2021 seasons, released in organic and recycled materials. Jeans were used in the first look photo, denim boots in the second, a shirt in the third, jeans in the fourth, and a coat and pants in the fifth.
. It's an interesting move, given the uncertain future.
Yes, I agree. In a difficult climate, there were many brands whose awareness of sustainability was highlighted in the collections I saw through this digital showroom. In fact, I had often heard customers say that they wanted to stop excessive packaging, and I was just thinking that we would like to increase our budget for brands that are serious about sustainability. Brands need to do business not only with the manufacturing and production process, but also with the flow of the product until it reaches the consumer's hands. . We, too, have a role to play in conveying the designer's ideas to our customers.
From your point of view, were there any brands worth mentioning in terms of how they were presented online?
." She has redesigned the website so that the themes of the past collections and the storyline of the past collections can be clearly seen. She has been using themes such as "Apocalypse" and "Radiation" to suggest that the earth will become so contaminated that we will have to wear masks to survive. . In other words, they were trying to get people to understand the brand again. They are very conscious of sustainability while placing great importance on the functionality of their clothes, and they are developing their designs from their own unique story. . On the other hand, they had already adopted an online presentation system for a couple of years where the photos of their looks rotated 360 degrees, making it easy to buy their products even if you didn't go to the exhibition.
Marlene Sell is one of the hottest designers currently in the spotlight; in 2017, she made headlines when she won the Grand Prix at the LVMH Prize, a gateway to success for young designers. She is currently showing her collection in London. Photo.From the brand's websiteThe following is a list of the most common problems with the
Could it be that the "implication" was also the basis for the way you were looking at the online presentation of your work?
It's very strange, but yes. We have a specialized team, but it even seems spiritual to even think that they predicted the Corona disaster (laughs). Also, only buyers had access, but the Bottega Veneta digital showroom was amazing. When I entered my password and opened the site, I saw a panoramic view of the space, with clothes hanging on racks that clearly showed the fall and luster of the materials, and cool fixtures with shoes and bags, which made me feel like I was visiting a showroom. I am always impressed when I go to exhibitions that reflect the world view of "Balenciaga" and others, and I think it is very important for buyers to purchase in such places.
Without skipping a show, "Jackums" dreamlike show, held in an open-air location, was so creative in its live video camerawork, music, and staging that it made me forget Corona, even for a moment, and I was soothed.
Jacquemus" held a runway show with a limited audience of about 100 people. A 200-meter runway was created in a wheat field in the Vexan region of France to ensure social distance. The show was designed to evoke the environment of the south of France, where the designer grew up," said Simon. . The designers, including Simon, are a group of people with creative ideas. They showed us a dream for those of us who cannot travel," says Hasegawa.
Do you think the digitalization of Fashion Week will accelerate in the future?
I think it is important to feel everything with all five senses, so I think there is a limit to using only video, images, or online meetings. Regular meetings are fine, but when it comes to buying, the amount of money involved is a whole different order of magnitude. I believe that one of the pleasures of fashion is the "surprise" of actually holding and seeing an item in one's hands and feeling it on one's skin, and it is impossible to make proposals to customers who have such an eye for fashion. Also, conversations in the showroom are not only about the collections, but also about the economy and the economy across national borders. Due to the time difference, for 10 days during this fashion week, I was mostly tied up with appointments from evening to night, but I had to leave early for my next appointment. It was also a point of disappointment for me that the environment was not conducive to talking, as it was busy over there and there was no room for chit-chat.
