CASE 3 Dairiku Okamoto, Designer
PROFILE
. was born in Nara, Japan in 1994. While a student at Vantan Design Institute in Osaka, he launched the fashion brand "DAIRIKU" He won the Grand Prix at Asia Fashion Collection in 2016 and presented his Fall/Winter 2017 collection at New York Fashion Week. He is a genuine vintage clothing lover, and his brand concept is "clothes with roots and stories. She loves coming-of-age movies with kids in them, and recently watched "Mid90s" as her favorite movie.
. the character is in the shoes, as much as the jacket or the sweatshirt .
What kind of shoes are you particular about?
Okamoto:I have a habit of buying the same pair of shoes when I like them, and I once wore the same material and design for about eight consecutive pairs. I also wear them according to the season and my mood. Dailik's theme is based on movies, and I wear shoes influenced by the characters in the movies, like how cool their shoes are.
I don't think shoes are often the focus of films, but were there any films in which shoes made a strong impression on you?
Okamoto:I really like the movie "My Friends Forever". The main character grew up in a not-so-rich family, so he wears shoes that look like they have mud on them. . I think his character comes out in the way the laces are untied and dirty. This is extreme, but I think sometimes the character comes out in the shoes as much as in the jacket or sweatshirt he wears.
Continental's footwear is the BS558 CLASSIC COMFORT . The rounded toe goes well with faded, masculine straight denim.
It is true that it is said that a person's character comes out in his or her shoes.
Okamoto:For the fourth season of the collection, based on the movie "Notorious B.I.G.," I came up with a story of a man who is gradually grasping the American dream. In the first scene in the ghetto, the shoes are worn out and shabby, while in the hotel scene, the shoes are brand new with tags. It was like a Dr. Dre, where the shoes are worn once and then thrown away. At that time, the importance of the shoes really stood out during the filming, as the staff discussed and created the scene.
I see that storytelling is an important part of your work.
Okamoto:The concept of "Dailik" is "clothes that have roots and stories. The story is a combination of the movies you have seen and your own memories, and the roots are the history and details of the clothes. The coveralls from "Dailik" are made with an emphasis on the roots of vintage clothing in terms of the way they are sewn and the specifications. They look like old clothes, but they are made to look like " Dairiku" by changing to dolman sleeves.
Do you regularly search the archives for vintage clothing?
Okamoto:Yes, that's right. . After an exhibition is over, when I am thinking about what to do next, it is like a routine. I often visit vintage clothing stores in Koenji, Shimokitazawa, and Sangenjaya. I like to do this naturally because I originally love it, and it is a 50-50 split between looking for clothes that will be the theme of my collection and looking for clothes that I will wear myself.
. Both as a designer and as an individual, Okamoto-san's roots are in vintage clothing, aren't they?
Okamoto:. I have always loved vintage clothing. There are many vintage clothing stores in Ame-mura, where my alma mater, Vantan, is located, and I often went there during breaks or after school to learn about the history of the clothes from the store clerks. For example, Dairiku denim has the cinch backs cut off, because I heard a story about how they used to cut them off because the needles were in the way when they were winding the belt. I love stories like that, and I would be happy if it became an opportunity for communication.
The atmosphere is created by accumulation.
I see. Now, changing the subject, have you ever worn side gore boots?
Okamoto:I used to wear them , but now I mostly wear sneakers and leather shoes. Side gore boots are easy to wear because there are no laces. BrandStone" in particular has pull-tabs on the front and back, so it was easy to put on and take off. Normally, they only have them on the back.
From a designer's point of view, what did you see in the side gore boots?
Okamoto:As for myself, I consider it to have a mode atmosphere. I would say it is very minimalist because the detail of shoelaces has been stripped away, and I am aware that it is a mode item. . I would like to use it when the mode atmosphere and the movie I am interested in are linked.
Q: You've been talking about the seasonal looks, but how do you decide what shoes to wear in your styling?
Okamoto:These days, I have been asking Kang Fuchigami to do the styling for me. I worked with him for the first time when I participated in the New York collection, and I felt the importance of the shoes even more when he styled the shoes with balance in mind. The overall atmosphere and the period of the collection were expressed well. . I realized the greatness of the stylist in the choice of shoes and accessories.
Mr. Tairiku looks at design drawings from his student days. Nowadays, he does not draw the look of each item, but rather focuses on the details of each item. When asked about shoes, he commented, "I like brands that have been making shoes for a long time and have been around for a long time, rather than mode brands.
. Styling is important, isn't it? Today, you are wearing denim and "Brand Stone," but what did you feel about it?
Okamoto:When I tried them on with denim, they reminded me of my father's shoes. He used to be a motorcyclist and wore boots, and I thought the roundness of the toe and the way they looked were similar to the ones he wore then. . Actually, my father had a big influence on me, such as old movies and old clothes. . I have an image of him wearing boots with denim when he rode his motorcycle.
It is connected to your roots, isn't it? Dairiku has been in business for three and a half years, while Brandstone is celebrating its 150th anniversary. What do you feel about these historic brands?
Okamoto:After all, they are the ones who can never be beaten. They have a long history, and although it is simple to put it into words, I have great respect for them. Even if I were to make shoes, I would not be able to do the same thing. If I were to make side gore boots, I would do a lot of research and propose them with the mindset of my own brand.
I think you place great importance on "atmosphere" in your manufacturing, and I wonder how you can make such an invisible thing reside in an object.
Okamoto:. To pay attention to even the parts that cannot be seen, such as processing methods and sewing methods. In this way, as the seasons go by, I think the atmosphere of the clothes will become richer. The coveralls that we have been making since the early days of the brand have always been made by the same person. He handles the entire process from sample to mass production by himself, and together we even consider the fabrics and specifications to be used. I believe that it is the accumulation of such details that creates the atmosphere of the garments.
. I suppose that the process of creating these works over the years makes them more compelling and deep, and creates a certain atmosphere.
Okamoto:. there is a weight to the fact that we have been making one item for so many years. Since "Brand Stone" is celebrating its 150th anniversary, the process must have been repeated thousands of times. I think that the accumulation of these processes gives an atmosphere, which I would like to cherish, and I would like to collaborate with such a brand to create something.
The "CLASSIC COMFORT" series is even more comfortable than the "ORIGINALS" by using a comfortable leather liner and a high-performance cushioning material XRD®︎ for the insole. The "CLASSIC COMFORT" series has a deeper sole groove for better grip, double stitching for added strength, and a number of other details that have increased the number of loyal users. Compared to the "ORIGINALS," the instep and toe are thicker.
