Style 02
Keiji Kaneko × IRISH SETTER 6" MOC-TOE #8173 / IS FLAGS
PROFILE
Born in 1974. After working as a buyer at the select store "Edifice", he became independent. After working on his own, he launched "Reshop" in 2015. He has been exposed to various shoes through buying, and his straight and reasonable selections have made fashion lovers groan.
It was a new discovery with a surprisingly clean silhouette.
I get the impression that Kaneko-san usually wears leather shoes or boots.
Kaneko: I have always worn leather shoes. Nowadays, I wear leather shoes by far, about 9:1.
Why is that?
Kaneko: I want this!" I like this one!" I tend to find that in leather shoes. However, when I get into sneakers, I sometimes follow a single brand. I have my own boom at different times. It may be that leather shoes and boots have a wider range of genres, such as dress shoes, engineer boots, cowboy boots, and so on.
Was there a time when you were into "Red Wing"?
Kaneko: In the 1990s, everyone was wearing "Irish Setters," but I didn't have the money, so I was wearing a different brand. That's why I always admired Red Wing. I bought my first pair when I was quite old.
I always had this complex in my head. When I compare engineer boots, Red Wing's boots are by far the coolest. The leather quality is also better.
What do you look for when selecting your own boots?
Kaneko: Since these boots were born in Europe and the U.S., I often feel that they do not fit the Japanese body shape in terms of form. In particular, I used to be small, with average-sized feet, so when I wore shoes from overseas, I couldn't help but feel the volume around my feet. I didn't like that very much, and I still have that feeling, so I choose shoes that fit my body shape.
We are looking for a balance of volume, or a fit that is just barely not too tight, and a silhouette that has a sleek wooden form. For example, the cowboy boots we offer at "Reshop" are made with a wooden pattern similar to dress shoes.
I have always felt that there was something elegant about the way Kaneko-san wears shoes, but I guess that's the secret.
Kaneko: I definitely do. I am embarrassed to say it myself, but I am conscious of being elegant.
Red Wing" is a work boot, but does it fit your sense of "elegance"?
Kaneko: When I tried them on this time, I thought they were surprisingly shapely. The wooden pattern should not have changed, but I didn't dislike them when I tried them on. In looking at various work boots, I have come into contact with more voluminous items, so perhaps it's a reaction to that that they look so sleek. It's strange, isn't it, how the way we see things changes depending on what we've seen and what we've gone through. The fact that I can wear Red Wing now is a new discovery for me.
What was your impression of Red Wing in the first place?
Kaneko: It is one of the leading American work boot manufacturers. In addition, it is an indispensable brand when talking about Japanese American casual fashion, and in that sense, I think it was the first boot brand to become popular. As I mentioned earlier, I couldn't afford to buy them for a long time, so for me, they are something to aspire to.
How many pairs have you worn so far?
Kaneko: You bought a pair of oil-guzzled steel-toed lace-up boots at an American flea market, and you had another pair of Pecos, which you gave away.
Is this your first time wearing Irish Setters?
Kaneko: Yes, I completely missed out on buying it (laughs), and it hasn't been discussed as a fashion trend since the 90s, so even though I thought there was something nice about it, I never really found the right time to buy it.
How do you feel when you try them on?
Kaneko: The comfort of the shoes is crazy good. The insole is not too soft and feels just right, and the warp of the toe is really nice. It's easy to move forward when walking. Boots don't allow for freedom of movement at the ankle, but I feel that this warp makes it easier to walk.
What do you think of the Irish Setter when you look at it as a modern fashion item?
Kaneko: Recently, more and more people around me are wearing them. I have seen fashion directors and buyers of select stores wearing them. So I had a vague sense that the trend was slowly picking up. Nowadays, simple clothes are more popular than more authoritative clothes, so I think shoes will naturally become more basic as well.
I wonder what kind of styling suggestions Kaneko-san would make in such a situation.
Kaneko: I was actually wondering if I should wear "Irish setters" this time, and whether I should dress like today or in the style of the 90s.
When you think of the 90's, do you think of the whole body as being dressed in vintage?
Kaneko: I would wear an L-2 jacket with jeans and "Irish setters" on my feet...I used to wear vintage items back in the 90's, but if I wanted to wear them in the modern style, I would want to wear items that are interpreted in the present. For example, if I were to wear an L-2, I would wear the one made by "NEXUSⅦ" with "Buzz Lixons. That would give it a slightly different feel than a true vintage item. By choosing refined items in this way, I think I can propose a modern American casual style that is not merely a tribute to the 90s, but rather a properly updated version of it.
You said that the 90's were not good enough.
Kaneko: I recently bought a new "BIG E" from [Levi's®], so I thought about matching it with that, but it just didn't feel right. I think it is better to match it with something that has been seasoned in the current style.
On the other hand, I think it would be nice to wear Irish setters with slacks like the ones we carry at Bernard Zanes. For a top, I would wear a cashmere sweater from Loro Piana. It is always cool to match the exact opposite in this way. Work and dress, or work and cashmere, are essentially incompatible, but I think that's part of the charm of the "hashish" look.
Also, I feel the combination with thick pants, as shown in this styling, is also new.
Kaneko: Maybe so. They fit surprisingly well. Perhaps that is because the fabric of these pants is based on sweatshirt material. Sweatshirts and "Irish setters" is a combination that fashionable people used to do.
The thicker silhouette of the pants makes the shoes look sleeker.
Kaneko: I was conscious of the silhouette. When I tried them on, they were surprisingly sleek, but I wanted to make them look even sleeker. I wanted to hide the stiffness of the work boots.
The white base color coordinates well with the clean look of the work boots.
Kaneko: Yes, I know. And since these shoes have been treated with paint, I thought it would be best to make them thoroughly clean. At first glance, it looks rough, but upon closer inspection, it is elegant. The duffle coat is like that, too. The appearance is elegant, but the silhouette is loose. I thought this kind of balance would bring out the best in both the shoes and the clothes, so I decided on this styling.
IRISH SETTER 6" MOC-TOE #8173 / IS FLAGS ¥45,000+TAX
Based on the classic "#8173" work boots with a traction tread outsole, this hand-painted pair has an attractive finish that emphasizes the "work" mood. The inside of the tongue is decorated with a reissued "Irish Setter print label," a nice detail for fans who already own a pair.
