FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

FASHION ISN'T DEAD. Fashion that sells now. Part 1
MONTHLY JOURNAL MAR. 2021

FASHION ISN'T DEAD.
Fashion that Sells Now. Part 1

The Japanese fashion industry is said to be having a hard time selling clothes. The media reports that apparel consumption is declining year after year and that major companies are going bankrupt or closing stores one after another make us want to turn our eyes away, but in fact, behind the scenes, some items are selling well. For example, loungewear, which is in high demand for stayhomes, and fishing wear, which has been quickly ignited by vests. But that's not all. In this issue of the Monthly Journal, we focus on hidden popular brands and hit products. In this issue of the Monthly Journal, we focus on hidden brands and hit products, and explore what is in demand in the current era through interviews with five fashion experts. In the first part, we interviewed Kazuma Shigematsu, representative of "ANTHINGS," which has been introducing the hottest brands, Tomonori Shibasaki, chief buyer of men's casual wear at "BEAMS," and Yuta Kaji, a stylist and designer of his own brand, "SANCÉ SANCÉ.

  • Photo_Shintaro Yoshimatsu, Yuco Nakamura
  • Text_Naoki Masuyama, Shogo Komatsu
  • Edit_Yuri Sudo

PROFILE

Kazuma Shigematsu

. born in 1988. Based on his experience as an importer, he founded "ANTHINGS" in 2017. . He is active in a variety of fields, including consulting, producing, and sales for domestic and international brands. He says that his "hobby is work," but recently his passion for sauna is on the rise.

Now is the time when lies are no longer acceptable, and "people" will be at the center.

Do you feel that clothes are not selling anymore?

Shigematsu:The number of people buying clothes is simply decreasing, and I think the gap between what sells and what doesn't is growing. One thing is clear: the cycle of consumption has become shorter. Instagram, for example, is already overloaded with information, and it has become commonplace for YouTubers to transmit trends. So, what's next?

Is there any way out of this?

Shigematsu:I believe that the core of our business is "people. However, I think it will be important to go one step further than the conventional approach and make sharp suggestions. Without fear of being misunderstood, we live in a world where "lies" are becoming increasingly difficult to communicate. It is not limited to fashion, but I think that the ease with which information can be obtained through social networking services has made deception no longer effective. On the other hand, personal information is more realistic than information about brands and stores, and I think many people identify with that.

Do you think that because the cycle is so fast, there is a need for something more essential?

Shigematsu:. I think there is that aspect. . In terms of items, there is a strong tendency to return to vintage clothing and other classics. There is also a noticeable shift from high-tech functional clothing to clothing made of natural materials. I think another major factor is the change in consumers, who are not willing to waste money on unnecessary purchases.

I see that IAC, which was launched last year, is a move in that direction.

Shigematsu:. yes, I am. In layman's terms, we are trying to communicate our honest feelings with members who share our sensibilities. Collaborations such as "THE COOP" are one form of this, and we have also started an e-commerce mall site called "Inventory" on an experimental basis, focusing on people.

What do you think of the current situation of foreign brands?

Shigematsu:. I think the damage is even greater than in Japan. Since the premise is based on global mass distribution, it is difficult to take action in any way. There are many brands that are struggling to decide whether or not to make samples in the first place. Naturally, they are also behind in responding to buyers. In relative terms, domestic brands seem to be doing well.

. Could you tell us about some of the specific items that are selling well?

Shigematsu:This item is available in the "inventory" I mentioned earlier, but it does not have a brand name. This is because this shirt is the embodiment of a shirt that Keiji Kaneko of "Reshop" personally wants. It is what is called a "personal order," and although one shirt costs 100,000 yen, it is very popular.

No brand name, BD semi-hand shirt (left) , regular collar semi-hand shirt (right). Each ¥100,000+tax (INVENTRY official website)

. I can feel your personal enthusiasm.

Shigematsu:This item is simply a shirt that Mr. Kaneko would like to wear today, and this is what he got. Using fabrics specially ordered from the Italian luxury brand Carlo Riva, everything from the cutting to the sewing, from the color to the appearance of the yoke, was done from scratch by Mr. Kaneko himself. He does not expect a lot of demand, so he can do whatever he wants (laughs). For more details on his insanely particular approach, please visitThe Inventory blogI hope you will read the following.

People" is the key word in these clothes.

Shigematsu:. Yes, that's right. The pants from "ETS Materio" are another item that is selling well for that reason; they are based on the worldview of "Materio," a store on Shibuya's Fire Street that existed in the early 2000s, but with the DNA of "Anatomica" in it. At that time, the shop was crowded with numerous industry people, and Mr. Kaneko was the buyer for just one year among them. Then, in March of this year, Mr. Kaneko took the helm, and the brand was finally revived. The brand is now available in 13 stores nationwide, including the flag store in Shinjuku, and orders are already going strong.

[ETS MATERIAUX] French Army M47, ¥32,000+TAX (ETS.MATERIAUX, 03-5369-6428)

Are these pants also made with Kaneko-san's thoughts and feelings in mind?

Shigematsu:While Kaneko-style French casual is a major part of our worldview, ETS Materio has two designers working with us throughout the season. Yuya Uta of "Uti" and Keigo Murakami of "Blurhms". Their ideas and essences are mixed together to create very modern and unique pants.

The motif of the pants is European military pants, isn't it?

Shigematsu:This is an adaptation of the M-47. It is made wide with a thick cotton fabric, but features a very flat appearance. On the other hand, it offers an elegant oversized look with attention to the tapered line and the way the hips are presented.

Backpack Pro L, ¥40,000+tax (MONOLITH Official Website)

What is this bag?

Shigematsu:This is a brand called "Monolith," which was launched at the end of last year. This is a project by Taisuke Nakamuro of "Murofis" and "Seiban," which boasts a large market share in the school bag industry. It is a hot topic and actually seems to be selling well.

. seems to be anonimous and easy to use.

Shigematsu:Even when looking at the details, I am impressed with the way the pockets are positioned and the number of pockets are just right, and the way the bag has been very well designed. Also, from the point of view of someone who knows Mr. Nakamuro well, the bag is very typical of him. Mr. Nakamuro is an outdoor enthusiast and a neat and tidy person. He is very neat and tidy in all aspects of his life. Well, he is a bit loose with time (laughs). . In any case, this bag has a very Nakamuro-like feel to it. . It is a valuable bag, including the unexpected approach to collaboration.

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